ok guys i ditched my lc1 for now and had this aem uego installed for quite some time. ive heard its inaccurate but better than nothing

ok i installed the two wires that are required power and ground. and it works as it should but since i have an s300 can i now install the blue(serial output) and white(0-5v output) so i can data log and get to know the car better. I dont know where to wire them too and if i should disconnect the oem o2 sensor or leave it on with the wideband
its a d series with a small turbo on it.

im not familiar with tuning but would like to learn any help would be appreciated thanks
I have to learn sooner or later

 

1. take out old narrowband
2. put in new wideband
3. plug new wideband in to ecu
4. watch the magic happen

now if you are confused as to where you wired the wideband to the ecu, then you can use the stock locations i believe. you should have a 0-5v wire on the wideband and that gets wired into a 0-5v input source from the ecu.

 

Connect white wire to any of the inputs s300 lets you use; ELD, EGR, o2...etc. Just be sure you choose that option in the software. Connect laptop to ecu and log away.

 

i used the eld as the o2 input. you do have to remove 2 resistors from the ecm. it is in the s300 help section. toenail clippers work well for this.

you do have to tweak the voltage offset a little.

my uego was on par with the fjo on the dyno when tuned. i read plugs after every pass.

youll be ok.

 

some how i doubt that, did your uego? yes it did but was it as fast and accurate as the FJO? no i dont think so, they have different latent dead times as well some other tings.

 

probably wasnt as fast as the fjo no, but in the end the numbers are where i need them to be. never said the uego was the best out there.

saying its not crap.

in my personal exp i havent had an issue with it.

 

hey guys i forgot to add wont it throw a code out if i take the old o2 sensor out completly
the heater wires


like i said the wideband is already on a diff bung and if i could take the other one out i would


also wouldnt i need the eld electronic load detector or do i disconnect that and connect the wire from aem straight to that


one more question whats serial output

update from searching can i not just do this-
disconnect the stock o2 and wire the white wire(0-5v) to the stock d14 pin that goes to the stock o2 sensor signal, I read it works but wont go over 3.8 volts is this true

 

you can use only the wideband and drive the car in open loop or closed loop its your choice, also you shouldnt throw any codes and if you do you have a S300 so you can fix them.

 

you want the 0-5v output. as long as you go into parameters ans disable the o2 heater, you shouldnt throw a code for not having an o2 sensor. you can do the cutting of the factory signal wire, and the d14 input.

for some reason i had an issue with that and the guys on hondatas forum had told me to use the eld as an input. havent had an issue since.

 

yeah
so ill just leave my stock o2 untouched than and leave it open loop. connect the signal wire from the wideband to the d10 eld pin. ill cut the wire and connect them. and then ill leave the heater wires enabled because im still running the o2 sensor. i will leave it in the car i have 3 bungs so i dont have to worry.

 

I use ectune to tune with. But with the white wire hooked to the ecu it was so horrible i was going to throw the thing in the trash. My AEM gauge was correct but the datalog was off 1.8 afr wot and 2.3 afr at idle. I ended up making a usb cable like the instructions that came with my uego, using the blue wire. Now my datalogs are exactly what the gauge says. I realy like the aem now.

 

yeah i think the stock o2 wire is only used up to 3.8 volts so its inaccurate wont get the full 0-5v wideband

 

This is true. All that means is that the ecu won't log anything leaner than like 17:1. I don't really know why you would need to log that lean though.

 

ive seen a few cars idle at 17:1 because thats just where they like to be.

 

weird