i have a bone stock gsr running 9lbs right now, and i was wanting to go with 12lbs next tune, but i need to know what boost headstuds are a necessity, i know its smart to have them with any boost setup, but i need to know what is safe

 

they are a good investment to get headstuds and it depends on hp not boost.

 

im at 374 whp on stock headbolts, no headgasket seepage yet. everythings still super clean.

 

yes and no. increased boost pressure will increase the cyclinder pressure inside the motor. ARP headstuds help to hold the head down under the higher pressures where the OEM ones may stretch and cause head lift. a big turbo at less boost might create lower cyclinder pressures than a small turbo at higher boost.

compression ratio of the engine could also be a deciding factor.

OP, there is no definitive point where you need headstuds. i would wait until you encounter headlift issues before changing the studs. kinda one of those "if it aint broke..." situations

 

I would for sure get studs at 12psi, but that's just me...

 

thanks for the replies, i think im going to wait and do headstuds at a later date, i knew my car wasnt running the way it should which is why i wanted to go to 12 lbs, however it dawned on me when i woke up this morning that i didnt think vtec has been engaging lately, and so i checked all my connections and sure enough i found a loose connector and not my vtec is back, and my car feels badass again, i will be pushing the re-tune to next year, and upgrading my intercooler and piping and exhaust to 3 inch in the next month

 

dont wait man it could cost you more to wait than it does to get them now

 

it is always a gamble with stock headstuds/sleeves...you know it could go but you don't know when, but you do know you will end up having to pull that head at some point on OEM studs... it's just added assurance to spend a few bucks on a headgasket and $100 on some ARP's so you won't have that problem...

 

Just leave stock in, as long as you have not reused them you will be fine. If its not broke don't fix it.... Peope forget that stock are still a good quality set of head bolts. There are plenty of people out there
that have boosted bone stock engines with high hp number without any head lifting issues.

Just save your money or spend it on something else....

 

id buy them but wouldnt put them in until you run into head lift. at that point check the head surface for warpage and get a new headgasket.

 

i put them in running 5 pounds of boost lol they are just better then head bolts for any application

 

No point in being cheap, do it right the first time. Trust me I know..

 

This makes no sense... why spend the money then wait to blow it up... at the point of running into head lift, you have bigger problems to worry about that some head warpage...such as coolant going into the cylinder and hydrolocking the motor

it's really only about 4-5 hours work, some less depending on the car..

 

ive lifted heads in the past and never hydrolocked. blown coolant out of the overflow yes.

personally, id get the head resurfaced if it took it apart regardless if it lifted or not. consequently, i wouldnt take it apart if i wasnt currently having a problem, but it would be good to have the parts because inevitably they will be used.

 

i dont know why people are obsessed with getting head studs for stock motor 300whp builds. ive seen stock b16 head bolts hold 400+whp after being reused, and stock GSR ones hold 500whp. b series heads dont lift and if they do the bolts are likely not to blame, more than likely the detonation causing many times more cylinder pressure lifted the head. im the last guy to cut corners on a setup but i wouldnt be running out of my way putting head studs in unless i was building the motor.

 

man ill tella ya i have always ran arp head bolts on the stock block i had with 500whp@26psi, and with the built block with 639whp@23psi they make a differance for sure.

now rod bolts are another thing lol my stock block lasted longer than my 2 built ones by far

 

IMO the 120 or so dollars is a good investment instead of blowing a HG but thats me

 

reliability's sake, the stud/nut combination from ARP holds more even pressure across the head, for 125 bucks its just a better safeguard for any application.