what material to use for "splitter" chin-spoiler?
I've been toying with the idea of making a front chin spoiler "splitter" for my EF.
Many track guys swear by them and say they help with higher speed stability at the track.
I would like to try and make one myself, but not out of cheap plywood...lol
It would have to be thin, stronger than plywood and the lighter the better. CF is out of the question, but i'm sure there is some sort of hard plastic that could be cut and sanded down.
Even if the material is more expensive then wood, i'm sure it will look nicer, be stronger and last longer. I'm thinking it should not cost more than $100 for supplies. (bolts, brackets, washers, board material ect.
Any thoughts on this?
Links would be greatly appericated too.
Charlie Moua
Many track guys swear by them and say they help with higher speed stability at the track.
I would like to try and make one myself, but not out of cheap plywood...lol
It would have to be thin, stronger than plywood and the lighter the better. CF is out of the question, but i'm sure there is some sort of hard plastic that could be cut and sanded down.
Even if the material is more expensive then wood, i'm sure it will look nicer, be stronger and last longer. I'm thinking it should not cost more than $100 for supplies. (bolts, brackets, washers, board material ect.
Any thoughts on this?
Links would be greatly appericated too.
Charlie Moua
try a big sheet of plexiglass. its similar to ABS plastic. might run over your budget though, and will need to be wrapped in carbon fiber or something like that
I recall seeing some custom ones that look just flat black and may be only 5-8mm thick or so...
Edit damn tooner noob beat me
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http://www.defender.com/realcategory...6458&id=309319
^This, with either carbon or fiberglass overlay. Use a slow-set epoxy and vacuum bag.
^This, with either carbon or fiberglass overlay. Use a slow-set epoxy and vacuum bag.
http://www.defender.com/realcategory...6458&id=309319
^This, with either carbon or fiberglass overlay. Use a slow-set epoxy and vacuum bag.
^This, with either carbon or fiberglass overlay. Use a slow-set epoxy and vacuum bag.
1/8" foam core with fiberlgass wrapped around it. No need for a vac bag if you just get full wet-out.
I get 1/8" foam core for $55 for a 4X8 foot sheet, and you could do it with another $30-40 of e-glass and resin. Don't bother with epoxy resin though, waste of money, especially unless you have advanced methods of doing the lay-up.
Polyester resin works great, and it is cheap.
i dont know whats wrong with "cheap" plywood. if you f-it up youre out a whopping 10 dollars
my current splitter/airdam yes its plywood , splitter is .451" ply and the airdam is .050alum figure id throw this out there for ideas.




as far as strength me and my buddy can stand on it total weight 300+ lbs. And it the whole splitter and brackets weigh less then 15 pounds. Is there a reason youre opposed to making one out of cheap plywood, I mean if its used on the p1 spec splitter from spms it cant be that bad.
my current splitter/airdam yes its plywood , splitter is .451" ply and the airdam is .050alum figure id throw this out there for ideas.




as far as strength me and my buddy can stand on it total weight 300+ lbs. And it the whole splitter and brackets weigh less then 15 pounds. Is there a reason youre opposed to making one out of cheap plywood, I mean if its used on the p1 spec splitter from spms it cant be that bad.
Last edited by naterpatater77; Aug 30, 2010 at 05:05 AM.
1/8" foam core splitters are light but will break easier and flex/bend at higher speeds unless you have a good mounting point system, but that means more mounting points and or thicker rods/tube/pylons=more weight. I recommend at least .25 foam core or 3/8 balsa wrap in fg or cf and call it a day.
Yep,
1/8" foam core with fiberlgass wrapped around it. No need for a vac bag if you just get full wet-out.
I get 1/8" foam core for $55 for a 4X8 foot sheet, and you could do it with another $30-40 of e-glass and resin. Don't bother with epoxy resin though, waste of money, especially unless you have advanced methods of doing the lay-up.
Polyester resin works great, and it is cheap.
1/8" foam core with fiberlgass wrapped around it. No need for a vac bag if you just get full wet-out.
I get 1/8" foam core for $55 for a 4X8 foot sheet, and you could do it with another $30-40 of e-glass and resin. Don't bother with epoxy resin though, waste of money, especially unless you have advanced methods of doing the lay-up.
Polyester resin works great, and it is cheap.
your airdam for that eg is too big, you should build the air dam after you lower the car and set the ride height now you got about 4 or 5 inches of air dam I think it'll be too tall for you.
I don't know much about air dam heights and what not but thing looks like it is built rather well for what it is.
right, cause there is no possiblity that he thought it out before hand, or seems like a relatively competent individual..... you know it really blows my mind when people feel the need to tell someone else what they are doing wrong. im sure he knows full well what height he wanted it. shut your flappy mouth.
right, cause there is no possiblity that he thought it out before hand, or seems like a relatively competent individual..... you know it really blows my mind when people feel the need to tell someone else what they are doing wrong. im sure he knows full well what height he wanted it. shut your flappy mouth.
Last edited by essex; Aug 29, 2010 at 01:14 PM.
. it looks fine. keep up the good work naterpatater77.
thanks!
actually the splitter blade sits about a half inch lower than my jdm **** spoon replica lip the reason the airdam looks so big is that well about 3 inches of that is covering the bumper believe me it has fully been thought out i will be running 15x8 949 racing 6ul wheels wrapped in 225/45/15 nt01s
here is when i decided how low i wanted it to sit

i didnt want it too low so that when i actually get up to speed that the downforce this will create will not pull it too close to the ground
and my car is probably not going to be much lower than when i first lowered way back in the day
actually the splitter blade sits about a half inch lower than my jdm **** spoon replica lip the reason the airdam looks so big is that well about 3 inches of that is covering the bumper believe me it has fully been thought out i will be running 15x8 949 racing 6ul wheels wrapped in 225/45/15 nt01s
here is when i decided how low i wanted it to sit

i didnt want it too low so that when i actually get up to speed that the downforce this will create will not pull it too close to the ground
and my car is probably not going to be much lower than when i first lowered way back in the day
I would just stick with plywood....In most cases the splitter will rip completly off incase of an "off" on track. I use the same marine grade plywood that came with my P1 splitter setup and it holds up fine; I've gone off track a few times at over ~60mph and its still good.
Pic of it now:
Pic of it now:
I went through 3 Playwood Splitters, shattering 1, breaking 1 on a burm, and another one that was ripped off while going off-track. I'm now on my 1st Alumalite splitter, it's been on there for a while, I'm quite happy with it, and I lost some weight from the car.
I would just stick with plywood....In most cases the splitter will rip completly off incase of an "off" on track. I use the same marine grade plywood that came with my P1 splitter setup and it holds up fine; I've gone off track a few times at over ~60mph and its still good.


