see if that keeps the stupid thing from over heating.

91 crx si freshly swapped obd2 gsr

fan is not kicking on, lower hose is not getting very hot, i do have heat now( i didn't when i first started). i think there is air trapped but i don't know how to get it out. i ran it with the cap off and the heat full blast for about 45 mins burping it and topping it off. also i am on my second new thermostat. also i filled the over flow up all the way and now its gone so i filled it again. there are zero leaks that i can see.

 

is the water pump new...

 

She must have a bad headgasket

burning anything through the exhaust?

Might be a very fine mist instead of a drip leak, hold your hand around the motor best you can when its warm.

Might also have a few vaccuum and water lines mixed up at the throttlebody, double check

cover all corners, recheck ****, even if it sounds silly to be missed.

 

also on mine i run it with the cap on and what not let it start warming up and open the bleeder on the thermostat housing

 

i don't have a bleeder on there unfortunately maybe a gsr thing?

thanks for the other suggestions... i was waiting to find something stupid that i did wrong.. haven't found it yet though..

 

B18C do not have cooling issues....something is wrong!

Did you burp your cooling system properly??

 

whats the proper way to do it?

 

don't run the heater motor when bleeding the coolant, just make sure the heat **** is turned all the way to hot. are the thermostats you're using oem honda thermostat's? if not get one. also, make sure the bypass nipple is up on the thermostat.

oh and uh, if you want to drive it into a river you can sign the title over to me instead lol

 

they are not oem thermostats but i am fairly confident that is not the issue.

i am trying to find pictures to double check all my lines/hoses

 

DO. NOT. USE. NON OEM THERMOSTATS. IN A HONDA. seriously. idk what it is but they just don't work right. i'm not just saying this either. lots of people say this, from experience. also, the partial warm lower hose is more than likely from the thermostat not opening all the way.



this image shows that your motor (i used 98 gsr which is an obd2 engine) has the fan switch after the thermostat. if not enough hot water was reaching the fan switch it would not kick the fan on. also, the bleeder valve is located on the water neck on the front of the pic, also shown in the image above. image was found at www.hondapartsunlimited.com

 

OEM Honda thermostats are an ABSOLUTE must in ALL Honda motors. Get rid of the junk one you have and go to Honda and buy one. They are spendy anywhere from $20-40. Yes I know expensive, but your cooling componants will thank you. While you're there get a gallon of OEM Honda coolant. It's silicate free and silicate in a Honda motor is like taking sand paper to freshly sprayed paint. It will EAT away at all your water seals and water pump.

Also when you do install the thermostat MAKE SURE the bypass nipple on it(the little hole in it) is facing upwards or 12o'clock.

Report back to us

 

x2

 

ok thats good info on the coolant.

I actually started with an oem thermostat, that was in there the first time the car sarted getting hot.

it feels to me like where the lower hose meets the thermo housing the hose is just empty.
i had the car running for literally 45mins "burping" and it wasn't over heating then as soon as i put the cap on it got hot. also i noticed when i came back out and it was cooler,it had sucked the overflow dry which i had filled.
i searched around and found there is a difference in thermostat housings, i have the one on the right in this pic. if that matters

 

looking at the following diagram, the small 90 degree tube that comes off the housing for the upper hose is supposed to go to a port that is factory blocked off on my thermostat housing. i have it instead running to the TB and then from the tb to the iacv. i am fairly sure this is how it was though.

 

also noticed my engine does not have an oil cooler.

 

So going by what you just said

you should try sourcing a new thermostat housing made for a USDM b18 GSR, and source the b16 or GSR or ITR oil cooler/warmer


that cooler/warmer actually puts extra load on the cooling system, so I would wait until nyour car runs correctly/warming correctly before doing it.

 

ok so its solved... i guess 8th time bleeding it is the charm. also i think not having the blower fans on helped
basically i think i was just impatient, that and astonished at how long it actually took
for others
leave the cap off, run the car with the heat **** full to heat but with the fan off. run the car until the fan kicks on keeping an eye on the temp gauge. ad some coolant as necessary

 

Glad it got taken care of!

 

ha, it's exactly as i thought