I'm just looking for some extra input for knowledge. I have my hanes and my chiltons. Anything I should be careful of? Any tools that would make the job easier? Any gaskets etc that I would be smart or need to be replaced(besides the valve cover gasket)? Any info from the more experianced would help and be apprieciated, I've never done this task before but need to get it done since my car tends to runs a little rough at start up(sounds like slight valve lash) it clears up after warm up though and runs smooth. i dont think its ever had a valve adjustment so i figured i'd start here before this problem gets worse. thanks.

 

???

 

Well i am sorry to tell that i too haven't done any thing like this before,so have no idea of it.may be some one else can help you.

 

lol its all good. i have a good understanding of what i need to do. should only take me 90mins tops my first time, ive taken the valve cover off plenty of times.

 

make sure you double check the clearance of the valves with a feeler gauge to correct spec only when that cylinder is at tdc. There is a good write up on the FAQ page for this.
Also, since you are going to do a valve adjustment anyways, i would highly recommend replacing the orings under the rocker arms.
You can buy a valve cover gasket kit from pep boys that should come with the upper and lower orings and valve cover gasket. There is also a good write up on the FAQ page for this. Protip: don't forget to use some rtv on the corners!

I think thats pretty much it. It's not that complicated. Just remember to torque everything down to spec and follow the chiltons or whatever write up you use and you should be all good.

 

If you have a bunch of miles, and oil in the spark plug tubes, do the lower O-ring replacement when you adjust the valves. If your rocker arm cover gasket is not rock hard, and still seals, use some brake clean to get the head sealing surface bone dry and clean, and use a rag wetted with brake clean to dry the rocker arm gasket before installation. The upper and lower tube seals are the most important part of the job...
You have to put some sealant on the top of the cylinder head at the areas that can allow oil to migrate from the crankcase directly to the outside world. Basically, from the seal at the camshaft pulley back to where the rocker arm gasket does the job and similarly at the distributor end.
Take your time, and make sure the 'friction' you feel when you move the feeler gauge is actual drag rather than bending of the gauge. I 'finger tightened' the adjustment onto the feeler, and then used the screwdriver to loosen it just a hair, and tighten the lock nuts. That way, I avoided the 'drag' caused by straight feeler gauges dragging, and knew when the screw had released pressure. Sounded pretty good when I was done, if I do say so myself.
tom

 

 

that helped me too tx...

 

it aint that hard, just make sure you use the closed end of the wrench

also, if you have straight feeler gauges it wont work very well cuz they go all crooked and it is misleading

get some bent ones, unless you want to bend your own

 

YEAH! this, is what i was attempting to say, straight feeler gauges FTL

that's how i did it, its tricky to do it perfectly though, bitchass screw would always move just a little bit while tightening the nut

do it by finger to "perfect" then you gotta get a death grip on the screw while you torque the nut
OR like hea said loosen it a little looser than "perfect" to compensate so when you torque it, it goes perfect lol

just go and re-check everything when you're done

 

The upper timing cover has a couple bolts that are a bitch to get to so if you don't already have some it's best to get some ratcheting wrenches so you don't have to keep taking it off and getting on the bolts. You don't, however, even need to take the upper cover off if you just go buy the marks on the inside of the cam gear on the valve cover side. I usually just use those, but it's best to have someone handy or you can just keep getting up and looking at it. Also, if you don't have a mm wrench to get on the crankbolt u can use a spark plug socket on it and make sure you remove the spark plugs so it'll turn easier.

 

When I did the adjustment, I marked the inner side of the cam sprocket with a sharpie to note the positions for 1-3-4-2 being at TDC [actually did '2' after rotating through 1-3 to 4, using mark1 mod0 eyeball.
You can use a box open end wrench on power steering pump pulley bolt to pull the engine over slowly. Easier with the sparking plugs out.
tom

 

so you adjust the cam lobe to be on the opposite side of the rocker arm before tightening each valve right?

 

Sort of! It's called rotating the engine to TDC. The piston for the particular cylinder you are working on should be at top dead center (TDC) and the rockers should not have any pressure on them. Another note: The engine should also be cold or ambient temp.

Tip: spend $20 and get yourself a 10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool. It will make this job much easier, unless you have 3 hands.

 

I was really thinking about getting one of those, but I am probably going to have a friend that knows what they are doing help me the first time so I can see exactly how its done.

Definitely gonna replace the lower o rings too. Thats fairly straight forward maintenance.

 

Removing the rocker arm assembly isn't exactly regular maintenance. However, I guess it's not difficult as long as you follow the proper steps. If your friend knows about OHC engines and how to properly remove the rocker assembly, then you might as well do it.

Tip - Remember to back off all of the adjusting screws first
Tip - Do not remove the camshaft holder bolts from the rocker assembly while removing it. If you do you could end up having a heck of a time trying to put all the springs, spacers and rockers back on the shaft.

 

I thought it was as simple as taking off those 8 bolts in the proper order? Then putting them back in the proper order.

 

You are right it's not all that hard at all. Just make sure that you back off all 16 of the valve adjusting screws before you remove it and do not take the bolts out of the cam holders. Loosen the bolts in sequence than remove the entire rocker assembly, including the 18 bolts, as one piece.



The lower O-rings are located on the bottom side of the assembly.

Good luck