Yeah, I know it's already going to be the end of summer time but now that I've fixed other parts of the car, I'm turning to bring my interior back up to date - starting with the A/C.

Basically, it blows hot air constantly. Never cold. I guess at night time it's a little cooler, but that might just be because it's not as hot outside and the air doesn't seem that hot. Also, the A/C comes out strongest at the windshield vent. Both the passenger and drivers side vents are weaker, with the two center vents being the weakest.

If anybody could lead me in the direction of what I should check out first, I'd appreciate it. I've already searched a few times, but it's mostly people asking how to recharge, how to install, or how to take out their A/C.

Thanks!

 

The vent issue may be caused by a mode control motor problem.

When you press the A/C button with the vent blower running, does the condenser fan run and/or does the compressor clutch engage.

Do you know whether the system is low on refrigerant?

 

Sorry, I'm not sure where exactly the condensor fan or the compressor clutch is Do you mind posting up a diagram so I can go check it? My car's right outside so I'll have an answer in ~10 minutes.

And no, I have not checked the pressure levels. I wanted to see if all the parts were working properly before, but maybe I should regardless?

 

Actually, nevermind. Just checked and the fan on the condensor DOESN'T turn on. I'm a fool at wiring, so is this something I could check out myself? I've wired my fogs + sidemarkers, but nothing more complicated.

 

Does the A/C button light up when it is pressed?

The condenser fan sits behind the condenser. It should run when the A/C button is pressed.

The compressor clutch is built around the compressor pulley, which is turned by the A/C belt. When the A/C is not on, the armature plate (face of the pulley) should not spin with the engine running. When the A/C button is pressed, the idle speed should increase and the armature plate should spin.

 

Yes, the light on the A/C button comes on.

I'll go check the clutch/pulley right now.

 

Hm.. I can't seem to figure out the whole clutch thing Maybe a diagram closer up? Sorry for my ignorance hahah.

Also, I checked the two wires coming from the condensor fan and the ground was still tight, and the other blue/black wire coming out was still connected into that plastic piece right next to the fan (not sure if it's working properly, though).

 

Check whether 20A hood fuse 35 is blown.

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When the A/C is not on, the armature plate (face of the pulley) should not spin with the engine running. When the A/C button is pressed, the idle speed should increase and the armature plate should spin.

Also, does the idle speed increase when you push the A/C button?

 

What do I need to check if the fuse is blown? I might have to wait until tomorrow unless I can buy it from Pepboys/Kragen.

And thanks for the detailed explanation. When the A/C is not on, the idle drops and the plate doesn't spin. When I turn it on, the the plate DOES spin and the idle increases a little.

 

The fact that the idle speed increases and the compressor clutch engages tells you that fuse 35 is fine.

Swap the condenser fan relay and compressor clutch relay. Does the condenser fan now run when the A/C button is pressed?

 

Hold up.. I'm tryna swap the relays but I can't get the damn pins to depress so I can take them out of their current positions. >_<

 

Okay, got them out and switched them but the condensor fan didn't switch on.

 

Also make sure the heater valve on the firewall is not stuck open, which would make hot air blow from the vents.

 

Okay. With the relays swapped, did the compressor clutch stop engaging? Or did it still behave the same as prior to the relay swap?

 

How do I get to the heater valve? Sorry for all the questions lol, but I really do appreciate your help.

Yes, the compressor clutch didn't engage when I had the A/C on and the relays swapped.

 

You can manually open and close the heater valve on the firewall. Make sure it is closed.

 

very detailed help instead of the usual " use the search " button response.

 

Switch the relays back to their original positions. Does the compressor again engage? If so, the condenser fan relay is bad and needs to be replaced.

But the bad condenser fan relay is not the only problem, otherwise the fan would have run when the relays were swapped. Run a wire from the battery to the condenser fan to see whether it will run.

 

Yeah Ron is the man , especially AC stuff

 

****. Now the actuator isn't moving when A/C is on. What'd I do?

 

Do you have a test light or multimeter?

 

I didn't, but a friend let me borrow his. What do I do?

I have a feeling it's the relays, when I unplugged them and looked at them, they looks kinda melted and not solid little holes like they should be.

 

Did your friend lend your a multimeter or test light?

Post pictures of the two relays.

 

It's a multimeter.

Here are the relays, forgive the cell phone pictures:




The first picture is the relay from the compressor, the second from the fan.

 

Click the Test Fuses link in my signature. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage and then use it to check whether 20A hood fuse 35 and 7.5A dash fuse 13 has voltage at both top test tabs. Test fuse 13 with the key in ON(II).

The pictures are blurry. Are the relay connectors melted?