Installed Go Autoworks Turbo kit now overheating???
I just recently finished installing a go auto works street turbo kit, and I am overheating after 20 minutes of driving on a cold motor. (not tuned for boost, and not going over 2k rpms)
I am in no way trying to bash this kit or go autoworks, the quality is great and the set up is pretty simple and straight forward.
I am pretty sure the overheating is not a coolant related problem (i.e bubbles or air pockets) because the new radiator I am running was installed on the car before the kit was installed and i ran on it for over 200kms, without any problems.
any thoughts? or ideas of where to start looking ?
The DP is exiting on driver side, and i have a medium sized front mount intercooler (~ 6" tall )
Has anyone else had this problem after installing a go autoworks kit?
I have only recently found out that there is an issue of getting fresh flowing air to the radiator when running a front mount intercooler is installed..
"Ducts" will be added before the car is tuned. (to get fresh air directed to the radiator)
However, I have never read anywhere on dseries org about people having this problem after installing the go autoworks kit?
Could I have installed something wrong ????
There are no leaks at all.
The car idles fine.
Where should I direct my attention if the ducts don't solve my problem?
I am in no way trying to bash this kit or go autoworks, the quality is great and the set up is pretty simple and straight forward.
I am pretty sure the overheating is not a coolant related problem (i.e bubbles or air pockets) because the new radiator I am running was installed on the car before the kit was installed and i ran on it for over 200kms, without any problems.
any thoughts? or ideas of where to start looking ?
The DP is exiting on driver side, and i have a medium sized front mount intercooler (~ 6" tall )
Has anyone else had this problem after installing a go autoworks kit?
I have only recently found out that there is an issue of getting fresh flowing air to the radiator when running a front mount intercooler is installed..
"Ducts" will be added before the car is tuned. (to get fresh air directed to the radiator)
However, I have never read anywhere on dseries org about people having this problem after installing the go autoworks kit?
Could I have installed something wrong ????
There are no leaks at all.
The car idles fine.
Where should I direct my attention if the ducts don't solve my problem?
what kind of fan are you running? is the fan working? with the added intercooler you will loose some air flow threw the front of the car but I havent seen any over heating issues and i have installed a few of these kits.. good luck and let us know if you figure out the problem..
-Sam
-Sam
I am overheating while driving.
I am using this fan here..
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/12slcofan.html
and it is mounted on the backside of the radiator (closes to the motor)
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I am assuming it is blowing in the right direction because i drove the car about 200kms with the radiator installed before the turbo kit was installed..
I dont think the fan would have to blow a different way just because a turbo kit is installed? i may be wrong..
The RADIATOR is set to PULL
I dont think the fan would have to blow a different way just because a turbo kit is installed? i may be wrong..
The RADIATOR is set to PULL
What vehicle is this in?
Honestly, get another fan. I had one of thos cheap ones that's supposed to flow 1500 or 2000 cfm and had overheating issues. I bought a Spal that was rated at 1500 and that thing flows a lot more air than the other ones. I'm not talking about one of the vehicle specific Spals, just one of their universal 12" fans.
Look at the amps the fan motor draws. Typically the higher the amperage the more air it will flow.
Honestly, get another fan. I had one of thos cheap ones that's supposed to flow 1500 or 2000 cfm and had overheating issues. I bought a Spal that was rated at 1500 and that thing flows a lot more air than the other ones. I'm not talking about one of the vehicle specific Spals, just one of their universal 12" fans.
Look at the amps the fan motor draws. Typically the higher the amperage the more air it will flow.
the car is a EG civic
What vehicle is this in?
Honestly, get another fan. I had one of thos cheap ones that's supposed to flow 1500 or 2000 cfm and had overheating issues. I bought a Spal that was rated at 1500 and that thing flows a lot more air than the other ones. I'm not talking about one of the vehicle specific Spals, just one of their universal 12" fans.
Look at the amps the fan motor draws. Typically the higher the amperage the more air it will flow.
Honestly, get another fan. I had one of thos cheap ones that's supposed to flow 1500 or 2000 cfm and had overheating issues. I bought a Spal that was rated at 1500 and that thing flows a lot more air than the other ones. I'm not talking about one of the vehicle specific Spals, just one of their universal 12" fans.
Look at the amps the fan motor draws. Typically the higher the amperage the more air it will flow.
Theres a few things I would check:
Location of coolant res in relation to anything hot? Keep in mind that under the hood temps WILL be a lot higher with a turbo setup.
Check your thermostat. Its only a few dollars...cant hurt.
Check and make sure your coolant level is absolutely full. Just because you didnt have any troubles when you were NA doesnt mean your good luck will continue when your boosted....everything changes!
Good luck man. It sucks when you do everything right and buy all the right/nice stuff and it doesnt work out like you hope it does
Location of coolant res in relation to anything hot? Keep in mind that under the hood temps WILL be a lot higher with a turbo setup.
Check your thermostat. Its only a few dollars...cant hurt.
Check and make sure your coolant level is absolutely full. Just because you didnt have any troubles when you were NA doesnt mean your good luck will continue when your boosted....everything changes!
Good luck man. It sucks when you do everything right and buy all the right/nice stuff and it doesnt work out like you hope it does
Ok, then I don't think what I did with my teg will help. I pulled out the foam between the nose and the bumper which allowed more air to get to the rad. I thought it would affect my intake temps but it didn't make any difference.
I would look at a new fan, but I don't think that is your main issue. If this happens only while driving, your fan should be off when driving (well over 30mph). What engine management are you using?
I would look at a new fan, but I don't think that is your main issue. If this happens only while driving, your fan should be off when driving (well over 30mph). What engine management are you using?
Be sure the fan is wired to rotate the correct direction and by all means have the car tuned.
Driving the car and keeping the car under 2k is creating quite a load as you go through the gears w/ no rpm.
Driving the car and keeping the car under 2k is creating quite a load as you go through the gears w/ no rpm.
I was overheating as well.. It has nothing to do with the kit..
But i did Mishimotos slim fan (12") and it couldnt keep the heat down.. Those slim fans are china made and people like mishimoto throw a sticker on them to call it theirs. They are really garbage.
I went to Xenocron.com and got a 13" 1300 CFM and ive been fine ever since. On a blistering day in Miami, My temp never gets over 195. I think they got new ones that flow 1500 cfm. Spend a little more for this fan and never have to worry about overheating because of inferior fans!
http://www.xenocron.com/maradyne-13-...7200149220b0e5
Those same slim fans can be found for 20 bucks, you pay 50 more for the paper sticker that companies put on them.
But i did Mishimotos slim fan (12") and it couldnt keep the heat down.. Those slim fans are china made and people like mishimoto throw a sticker on them to call it theirs. They are really garbage.
I went to Xenocron.com and got a 13" 1300 CFM and ive been fine ever since. On a blistering day in Miami, My temp never gets over 195. I think they got new ones that flow 1500 cfm. Spend a little more for this fan and never have to worry about overheating because of inferior fans!
http://www.xenocron.com/maradyne-13-...7200149220b0e5
Those same slim fans can be found for 20 bucks, you pay 50 more for the paper sticker that companies put on them.
Right now my oil restrictor line is attached to the oil feed at the filter end of the line. I have an oil filter sandwich plate ...
Should the oil restrictor be attached at the turbo end of the oil feed line?
Or is there no difference here?
Should the oil restrictor be attached at the turbo end of the oil feed line?
Or is there no difference here?
driving 20 mins with the temp guage at half/ just over half, would this have decreased the life of my motor?
i also didnt have a cat there was just a downpipe, i was on my way to get the downpipe and the catback connected...
i stayed at 2k rpm because im running a T3 50 trim and these turbos spool fast, and with no back pressure at all caused by running donwpipe open to atmosphere i was just being over cautious...
i also didnt have a cat there was just a downpipe, i was on my way to get the downpipe and the catback connected...
i stayed at 2k rpm because im running a T3 50 trim and these turbos spool fast, and with no back pressure at all caused by running donwpipe open to atmosphere i was just being over cautious...
Keep me in the loop. I had TWO b18b's go on me due to boost leak. I'm talking, just driving down the street to the store & there's pressure in the radiator hoses. Good luck on getting your beast fixed
radiator was installed 2 weeks before the install even started, i drove around with this new radiator in for over 2 weeks with no problems.
i also changed the fuel pump, put a fuel pressure regulator in ..
i also changed the fuel pump, put a fuel pressure regulator in ..
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