Hey guys, sorry if this doesn't make any sense for I am new to this site. So today my 1990 honda accord just started to have problems. At first when started and on neutral, the car doesn't seem to idle correctly? To describe what's happening is that the car shakes and the engine doesn't sound too good? And then after driving the car for a couple minutes, I noticed that the check engine light turned on, then soon after the battery light came on with the oil light. Then that was when the car started losing acceleration and I was unable to brake. Then the two lights but the check engine light would go on and off. Then after a while the whole car just turned off on it's own. However all the electrical things on the car still works. Like the car still can turn on but once it's put into gear the car eventually dies about less than a minute later. Does anyone know what may be the problem? The car has manual transmission too by the way.

Thanks.

 

Does the car have oil in it?

 

If you ran it out of oil you could of oil it could be seased

 

sounds to be an electrical issue as opposed to lack of oil....check the battery connections and follow the charging line to the fuse panel then to the alternator

 

Yeah I don't think it's the oil. But an update to what happened because I finally got it back home from where I left it all day. While driving, I noticed that the car seems to turn off when I am not pushing on the gas. So when it's idling is when the car shuts. Also, it happens when I am going slow at speeds lower than 20 mph.

My buddy checked it and thinks somethings wrong with at least one of my cylinders? I'm not sure though.

But, the idling is really rough now.

 

I think you need a qualified technician to diagnose your vehicle.

 

losing power, all the lights lit up, and the brakes quit working... sounds like the car is stalling out to me, or maybe just dipping the idle down below spec low enough to trigger dash lights. since its a manual, it could also be possible for the car to stall out, but the trans keeps the engine revolving as long as the cars moving, which can give the impression that it the engine is still running even though its not (you might hear it turning over). plus if its a stalling problem, and its rolling in gear with the key on, it might even be restarting itself and cutting back off if it wont idle right anyway.

just my thoughts

 

So I diagnosed my check engine light and it read it to be the EGR valve. So I was wondering if that means I need to replace it or if cleaning it would do the trick?

And I had some free time to see how the car stalls out. So I started the car and left it on neutral. Then in a couple minutes the car's idle will just drop to where the car stops running.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

Make sure you check the spark plug make sure your seals are good. This happened to me recently and spark plug seals were bad and filling spark plugs with oil.

 

With your DTC and symptom combined, it sounds like the EGR valve is open when it shouldn't be. This is either a problem with the EGR valve or the EGR valve control. This is a vacuum operated valve. I suspect a leaking control valve. But, obviouisly, you are going to have to troubleshoot the problem to be sure.

 

also, examine the connector that the egr plugs in to. make sure the wires arent broken or anything, unplug and make sure connector is dry and clean, etc.

i would pop the egr valve off (dont forget to get a new gasket though.. ~$3) and clean it out first. see if it makes any difference. if it seems to help the situation, at least a little, then go on with the port cleaning as shown in the how-to. just cleaning out the valve should give you positive results, even if its not much.

once you get it off and cleaned out, you can suck on the vacuum line stub on the valve and see whether or not the valve moves with vacuum. also, once vacuum is applied, cap the vacuum port with your finger and watch for it to leak down. if it doesnt move with vacuum, or if it leaks down when sealed with vacuum, its a good sign that the valve itself is the problem.

 

The DTC is caused by the EGR valve position sensor feedback signal not reflecting the EGR command. This is not an EGR flow DTC.

 

here is the problem guys you were all good until the egr valve came into play. yes the computer said the egr valve was bad but the better track was to check if the car has a short or a wire is bad. take your fuse boxes (the one one under the dash and under the hood. there shold be either a problem with the wiring or some thing electrical. do change the egr valve. why do something if you cant do it right the first time.

 

What?

 

I had a car do that and it did the samething and it was a wire that was not put on when they changed the engine and it did the same thing.

 

I would change the egr valve but it is not what is causing the problem

 

yea I know whats wrong its your distribitor I was haveing problems with my 90 accord lx it would not rev past 3500 rpms because it goes into a safe mode I was getting a code 8 which is your top deid center [tdc] the distribitor controls that and your egr control look into it get a hanes book on it I hope this helps at least cheak it I spend alot of time figuring it out for my car and I found the answer on here

 

it almost sounds like the iacv is unplugged. check the plug there and check the plugs by the distributor to make sure those are plugged in.