Quick question for those that did their timing belt and water pump at home.
My water pump is leaking like a stuck pig, I will be replacing that and the timing belt this Saturday.
I was wondering if there is anything I should look out for while doing this?
Also, are there any tips or tricks I should know?
Thank you
I was wondering if there is anything I should look out for while doing this?
Also, are there any tips or tricks I should know?
Thank you
You're more than likely gonna need either an air impact to take off the crank pulley bolt or the honda crank holder tool and a solid breaker bar. I'm assuming this is for an Accord so you'll want to do the balance shaft belt and probably replace the oil seal as well. Check the seals on your camshaft and crank seal as well and might as well change them while you are there. Also might wanna do your accessory belts (ac/ps/alt) while you are at it.
1st turn the engine to top dead center and mark the cam gear, balance shafts, and crank. There are markers on the gears, but the paint is easier to line up. And have lot of patience when putting on the new belt. It takes a few tries to get everything lined up
Well their are changes over the years of Accord.
With the F22B1 in the '95 EX I found that removing/replacing the lower timing belt cover was far easier with the power steering line, that is bolted to the inner frame rail, unbolted to allow getting the corner of the cover around the strut arm and sprockets without force.
Again '95 F22B1, the original harmonic balancers painted timing mark was faded. I used a blob of metallic red paint to highlight the pointer.
It's a fairly straight forward procedure, as long as no one before you completely fubar'd the belt install prior. I had to deal with retap/heli-coil new threads for the timing belt tensioner.
Don't forget to burp the cooling system when you are done.
With the F22B1 in the '95 EX I found that removing/replacing the lower timing belt cover was far easier with the power steering line, that is bolted to the inner frame rail, unbolted to allow getting the corner of the cover around the strut arm and sprockets without force.
Again '95 F22B1, the original harmonic balancers painted timing mark was faded. I used a blob of metallic red paint to highlight the pointer.
It's a fairly straight forward procedure, as long as no one before you completely fubar'd the belt install prior. I had to deal with retap/heli-coil new threads for the timing belt tensioner.
Don't forget to burp the cooling system when you are done.
Air gun can be useful but you really need a 1/2" 20 inch long extension bar and about 3-4" long arm to unbolt the crankshaft. Support it with a jack. Do not forget to put some RV silicon on the pump seal. - Accord
I do not know any smart way not to do it but after you drain the cooling fluid there will be still like 1/2 gallon left in the engine and the pump - it will all come out with the pump all over the pulleys and the engine.
Good luck.
I do not know any smart way not to do it but after you drain the cooling fluid there will be still like 1/2 gallon left in the engine and the pump - it will all come out with the pump all over the pulleys and the engine.
Good luck.
Well their are changes over the years of Accord.
With the F22B1 in the '95 EX I found that removing/replacing the lower timing belt cover was far easier with the power steering line, that is bolted to the inner frame rail, unbolted to allow getting the corner of the cover around the strut arm and sprockets without force.
Again '95 F22B1, the original harmonic balancers painted timing mark was faded. I used a blob of metallic red paint to highlight the pointer.
It's a fairly straight forward procedure, as long as no one before you completely fubar'd the belt install prior. I had to deal with retap/heli-coil new threads for the timing belt tensioner.
Don't forget to burp the cooling system when you are done.
With the F22B1 in the '95 EX I found that removing/replacing the lower timing belt cover was far easier with the power steering line, that is bolted to the inner frame rail, unbolted to allow getting the corner of the cover around the strut arm and sprockets without force.
Again '95 F22B1, the original harmonic balancers painted timing mark was faded. I used a blob of metallic red paint to highlight the pointer.
It's a fairly straight forward procedure, as long as no one before you completely fubar'd the belt install prior. I had to deal with retap/heli-coil new threads for the timing belt tensioner.
Don't forget to burp the cooling system when you are done.
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