96 civic 1&2 misfire d16y7
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From: in a van down by the river
Whats up fellow honda lovers! I got a 96 civic hatch d16y7 completly stock... I picked this up just after my EG hatch was totaled.... I havent really ripped on it considering the last car was swapped.... I really just grandma it around..... anyway I had the car for a week, driven two times daily and no CEL..... After a week the CEL came on n It ran like poop..... hard to think I could get worse than a stock Y7 lol any way I've been trying to fix it....
Codes:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P1300 random misfire
Thinks I have done:
Checked Valve clearance (no adjustments needed)
Replaced Cap n Rotor
Checked the plug wires reisitance ( all checked good)
Check ignition timing ( no adjustment needed)
replaced the plugs with standard NGK plugs gapped to spec
check fuel pressure 38 psi
replaced fuel filter ( i had to due to the fuel leak, needed the crush washers)
I also swapped 1&2 fuel injectors to 3&4 and vice versa. The misfire stayed on 1&2.
I cleaned the fuel injectors with brake cleaner because they had carbon build up on them. I also did a fuel injection service on it because it had the same carbon build up in the ports... it made an improvement but ddin't fix the misfire....
I was thinking that these must be related since the CEL didnt come on for a week, and that they both appeared at the same time.....
So the problem should be able to affect two cylinders.....
I havent checked compression yet but I'm thinking that it would be unlikely that two cylinders would go bad at the same time.
Any one have an Idea?
This would have a resistor box correct? is that a possibility?
Codes:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P1300 random misfire
Thinks I have done:
Checked Valve clearance (no adjustments needed)
Replaced Cap n Rotor
Checked the plug wires reisitance ( all checked good)
Check ignition timing ( no adjustment needed)
replaced the plugs with standard NGK plugs gapped to spec
check fuel pressure 38 psi
replaced fuel filter ( i had to due to the fuel leak, needed the crush washers)
I also swapped 1&2 fuel injectors to 3&4 and vice versa. The misfire stayed on 1&2.
I cleaned the fuel injectors with brake cleaner because they had carbon build up on them. I also did a fuel injection service on it because it had the same carbon build up in the ports... it made an improvement but ddin't fix the misfire....
I was thinking that these must be related since the CEL didnt come on for a week, and that they both appeared at the same time.....
So the problem should be able to affect two cylinders.....
I havent checked compression yet but I'm thinking that it would be unlikely that two cylinders would go bad at the same time.
Any one have an Idea?
This would have a resistor box correct? is that a possibility?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
From: in a van down by the river
I havent gotten around to doing that yet but I have the print out from alldata, and its definately on my list, as well as a compression check.
Resistance test the coil.
wouldn't the ICM effect all of the cylinders?
P300 is a random misfire code.
Is the resistor box a possibility?
You don't have a resistor box.
Resistance test the coil.
wouldn't the ICM effect all of the cylinders?
P300 is a random misfire code.
Is the resistor box a possibility?
You don't have a resistor box.
Whats up fellow honda lovers! I got a 96 civic hatch d16y7 completly stock... I picked this up just after my EG hatch was totaled.... I havent really ripped on it considering the last car was swapped.... I really just grandma it around..... anyway I had the car for a week, driven two times daily and no CEL..... After a week the CEL came on n It ran like poop..... hard to think I could get worse than a stock Y7 lol any way I've been trying to fix it....
Codes:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P1300 random misfire
Thinks I have done:
Checked Valve clearance (no adjustments needed)
Replaced Cap n Rotor
Checked the plug wires reisitance ( all checked good)
Check ignition timing ( no adjustment needed)
replaced the plugs with standard NGK plugs gapped to spec
check fuel pressure 38 psi
replaced fuel filter ( i had to due to the fuel leak, needed the crush washers)
I also swapped 1&2 fuel injectors to 3&4 and vice versa. The misfire stayed on 1&2.
I cleaned the fuel injectors with brake cleaner because they had carbon build up on them. I also did a fuel injection service on it because it had the same carbon build up in the ports... it made an improvement but ddin't fix the misfire....
I was thinking that these must be related since the CEL didnt come on for a week, and that they both appeared at the same time.....
So the problem should be able to affect two cylinders.....
I havent checked compression yet but I'm thinking that it would be unlikely that two cylinders would go bad at the same time.
Any one have an Idea?
This would have a resistor box correct? is that a possibility?
Codes:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P1300 random misfire
Thinks I have done:
Checked Valve clearance (no adjustments needed)
Replaced Cap n Rotor
Checked the plug wires reisitance ( all checked good)
Check ignition timing ( no adjustment needed)
replaced the plugs with standard NGK plugs gapped to spec
check fuel pressure 38 psi
replaced fuel filter ( i had to due to the fuel leak, needed the crush washers)
I also swapped 1&2 fuel injectors to 3&4 and vice versa. The misfire stayed on 1&2.
I cleaned the fuel injectors with brake cleaner because they had carbon build up on them. I also did a fuel injection service on it because it had the same carbon build up in the ports... it made an improvement but ddin't fix the misfire....
I was thinking that these must be related since the CEL didnt come on for a week, and that they both appeared at the same time.....
So the problem should be able to affect two cylinders.....
I havent checked compression yet but I'm thinking that it would be unlikely that two cylinders would go bad at the same time.
Any one have an Idea?
This would have a resistor box correct? is that a possibility?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
From: in a van down by the river
I tested the coil...... primary winding restsitance is opposed to be 0.63-0.77 ohms at 68 defrees F it tested 1.2 ohms at 95 degress F
secondary winding sopposed to be 12.8-19.2K ohms it tested at 18K ohms.
I also tested the wiring for the ICM
has power at black/yellow and at white /blue
yellow/green from ICM to ECU connector .7 ohms and no continuity to ground
blue from ICM to tachometer .9 ohms and 160K ohms connection to ground
I thought that seemed weird, there is not sopposed to be contunuity to ground on the blue
wire......
I also used a stethescope on the fuel injectors, they are all clicking...
anybody have an idea?
secondary winding sopposed to be 12.8-19.2K ohms it tested at 18K ohms.
I also tested the wiring for the ICM
has power at black/yellow and at white /blue
yellow/green from ICM to ECU connector .7 ohms and no continuity to ground
blue from ICM to tachometer .9 ohms and 160K ohms connection to ground
I thought that seemed weird, there is not sopposed to be contunuity to ground on the blue
wire......
I also used a stethescope on the fuel injectors, they are all clicking...
anybody have an idea?
Last edited by hon2984; Aug 19, 2010 at 09:23 AM.
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Thread Starter
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From: in a van down by the river
blue from ICM to tachometer .9 ohms and 160K ohms connection to ground
this isnt sopposed to have continuity to ground..... is that i high enough resistance to ground? I should be expecting OL right?
I did order a new coil and had it sent over and it tested to the same specs....
blue from ICM to tachometer .9 ohms and 160K ohms connection to ground. this isnt sopposed to have continuity to ground..... is that i high enough resistance to ground? I should be expecting OL right?
I don't consider 160k Ohms continuity to ground. Unless you have experienced tach problems, I would not be concerned.
I did order a new coil and had it sent over and it tested to the same specs....
If resistance of both coils is out of spec, then both are bad or you are not measuring resistance correctly.
I don't consider 160k Ohms continuity to ground. Unless you have experienced tach problems, I would not be concerned.
I did order a new coil and had it sent over and it tested to the same specs....
If resistance of both coils is out of spec, then both are bad or you are not measuring resistance correctly.
Thread Starter
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From: in a van down by the river
I moved the brand new BWD part inside for an hour n tested it was at 75 degrees F. still measured 1.2 ohms
I ordered another one, it was a masterpro part it tested to 1.3 ohms....
I got my specs off ALLDATA.... it said
primary winding restsitance is opposed to be 0.63-0.77 ohms at 68 degrees F
does this sound like the correct spec?
this has me thinking maybe I should replace the batteries in my DVOM.
I ordered another one, it was a masterpro part it tested to 1.3 ohms....
I got my specs off ALLDATA.... it said
primary winding restsitance is opposed to be 0.63-0.77 ohms at 68 degrees F
does this sound like the correct spec?
this has me thinking maybe I should replace the batteries in my DVOM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 733
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From: in a van down by the river
did some reading on a honda service manual pdf
those are the right specs....
gonna put new batteries n my DVOM and retest.... I also have another DVOM I can try.
those are the right specs....
gonna put new batteries n my DVOM and retest.... I also have another DVOM I can try.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: in a van down by the river
did a compression test today..... #4 220 #3 210 # 2 145 #1 220
did a leakdown test on #2 leaking through the exhaust.......
could a compression problem on #2 cause a misfire on #1?
is that possible?
exhaust gas leak through the cylinder into the intake mani and into #1..... exhaust gas causing the misfire on 1?
did a leakdown test on #2 leaking through the exhaust.......
could a compression problem on #2 cause a misfire on #1?
is that possible?
exhaust gas leak through the cylinder into the intake mani and into #1..... exhaust gas causing the misfire on 1?
Thread Starter
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From: in a van down by the river
I did pull the valve cover n turn the rotating assembly over by hand to watch the rockers/ valves/springs. Both side are moving, and seem to stop and start at the same height...
The thing that makes me wonder is why I would get a misfire on one..... everything on one checks out.
When I leakdown tested it the air was coming out the exhaust.....
I was kind of thinking bad valve seat....
The thing that makes me wonder is why I would get a misfire on one..... everything on one checks out.
When I leakdown tested it the air was coming out the exhaust.....
I was kind of thinking bad valve seat....
Thread Starter
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From: in a van down by the river
thinks my batteries on my DVOM were going dead! ended up having mechanical problems.... had leakage through the exhaust when I did a leak down test! compression was good on 3 cylinders and one would get up to 140 psi then bleed right down to zero.
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