my 96 Accord has a code popping up but the CEL does not come on. i unplug different items to see if it will come on but it won't. what could cause this?

 

the bulb in the dash may be blown. if you unplug the front 02 sensor, it should come on.

 

From a personal experience, i found out that my previous accord would never get a CEL to come on, and that was because the previous owner took the dash apart and placed a small piece of cardboard behind where the CEL is supposed to appear. Ingenious right?!

 

the CEL come on ehrn i turn the car on, it doesn't come on when i have a code. i even unplug the O2 sensor an it doesn't come on.

 

if it lights up when you turn the ignition on, the bulb's obviously good. i would guess maybe the ECM if it's not turning the light on with a code.

 

i purchased an ECM and the problem still continues. i even took the car to get the electrical system checked. everything checked out fine. i even had a code pop up now P0135. i am also wondering why my car is backfiring through the intake

 

If you unplug the IACV when the car is running does the CEL come on?

If your car is backfiring through the intake ether your timing is off or you have 1 or more burnt/bent intake valves.

 

the light does not come on no matter what i unplug.
what is the timing suppose to be set at. i checked the timing marks on the cam and balancer and they line up. do i need to set it with a timing light and what does it need to be set at?

 

How do i check for a burnt or bent valve?

 

The best way to check for bent or leaking valves is to do a cylinder compression test and/or a leak down test.

 

did a compression test the other day and all 4 cylinders are at 100psi. what should the timing be set at.

 

100 psi is very low. According to the shop manual the Minimum specs for an F22B1 & 2 is 135psi with the throttle held wide open during the testing. However if they were all @ 100psi ether they are all below spec and leaking or there may have been some sort of pressure error or mechanical deviation with the testing equipment.

PM sent

 

I agree that it's low. Something's up with the head. Since you can't drive it, it may be worth breaking it down to see what's up.

 

i will do another compreesion test and see what i come up with. because i cannot figure out what is causing it to backfire and pop through the intake. i am about to give up already got 400 in it and have taken it to 2 shops. if ya'll have any suggestions please let me know and i will try it. i have tryied a new dizzy , plug ,wire lower o2, fuel pressure is at 50, and check all the sensors. the only think i haven't checked is the coil.

 

Fuel pressure should only be 38-46psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. Then with the vacuum hose connected, the fuel pressure at idle (700 ±50 rpm) should only be 30-37psi. May want to check that as well as your cylinder compression again. With a fuel pressure of 50psi at idle you may be getting too much fuel thus causing your backfire condition.

Set your timing
• Bring your engine up to operating temps (fan cycles twice)
• Short the SCS connector (2 pin connector for CEL) This will put your ECU into base timing mode.
• Once in base timing ensure that your idle is @ 700 ±50 rpm
• Connect timing light to No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire
• Point the timing light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover
• Timing should be 15° ±2° BTDC (RED line) @ 700 ±50 rpm in neutral

 

Where is the SCS connecter located?
if the fuel pressure is at 50 wont the fuel regulator control the amount of fuel to the injectors, even though the pressure is high?

 

There is no other fuel regulator other than the fuel pressure regulator. If the fuel pressure is high, more fuel will flow through the injectors. Just as if the pressure is low less fuel will flow through the injectors.

For example your stock injectors will flow approx 240cc @ 43psi and approx 260cc @ 50psi

The SCS connector is the blue 2 pin connector mounted under your glove box.

 

so could it be the fuel pump the only other thing it could be is that the compression is to low, but all 4 cylinders are at 100. i just put a new dealer cap and rotor and now i have 4 new code random misfire and misfire in 1,3,4 cylinder just by changing those 2 items so it is weird. the firing order is correct.
i check the timing it right on 15 degrees with a timinglight and by my scanner. i was told by a honda tech on line that it sounded like a secondary miss well now all parts are new. so what could it be now?

 

it could be in your dizzy like your magnetic pickups or try and remove your ICM (ignition controll modual) out of the dizzy and have it tested at like napa

 

are u sure for that?

 

i tried a new dizzy from oreily's and it still did the same thing.