For those who have made their own cooling ducts, what did you use, how did you do it. I'm thinking some light aluminum tubing to an air dam made of fiberglass sheet at the front bumper and nothing on the rear for now since they dont get as abused as the fronts anyhow.

So who's done it? how to?! thanks ~ Peter

 

I just received my 3" silicone duct tubing and an inlet which I was considering cutting out the front spoiler to accept. I really want to make some sort of nozzle which can bolt to the backing plate to direct the airflow into the center of the rotor.

Room is the big issue.

 

just go to home depot or something and get a aluminum duct (i think it was $6 cnd for a meter or so) there are bunch of widths, so dont forget to check out the width you want.
yeah, it would be nice to make a frp thing in the front of the hose for better air flow (wich i was planning on doing, but sold my car).

same goes for a ram air system.

 

you can buy naca ducts and nipples from rpw.

 

Get some decent ducts from Pegasus or Racers Wholesale and fasten these to the lower lip on the front bumper cover- on my 85 CRX I cut the black lip out to raise the ducts a bit but did not cut the bumper cover. Then run the 3" brake ducts from the inlets along the inner fenders and behind the strut and tie wrap the end to the upright so the opening is pointing to the center of the opening. Try to run the hose as straight as possible and get the outlet as close to the center of the rotor as possible and lose the brake backing plate (splash guard).

Without this setup, we would weld the brake pad backing plate to the caliper piston from the heat at Blackhawk Farms. Now these work great...

 

yay!

 

 

I had said this in another post, I have some brake ducting that we made up for are ITA integra. If you CRX is running the stock brake calipers then it would perfect for you to copy. They made a pretty big difference in are brakes. Ill try to get the pics up soon for you to see.

 

Cannot WAIT to see!

 

Ok so here is a few pics of what we did and link to the blog for the full story





and here is the link to the full blog

http://www.ipgparts.net/blog/general...r-ita-integra/

I hope this helps you out.

 

Wow, two seriously useful "how-to" reply's with excellent photos. Please keep those photo links up, they are awesome! Subscribed..

 

Depending on how wide of a wheel you are running our set up might not be for you. When turning at full lock the tire rubs the ducting. So over time you will get a tear in it that you will have to tape over or replace the hose. You could also run the hose a little different than how we have it. On the DA there is not much room in the front, so on a civic or CRX you may not have this problem. The integra those brakes are on like I said in the write up is a ITA car so the only full lock turns that makes is around the paddock. That is really the only complaint i have with our set up. Other than that it is a great set up and works awesome with brake cooling.

 

Loumo: What were the results? Have you raced on this setup? Did your bearings/hubs/ball joints, rotors and pads all last longer?

What's your feedback? Also, is the large shield intended to help move the air out of the wheel?

 

The problem is that is only cooling one side of the rotor. where a setup like mine is going straight to the center cooling the whole disc and caliper. But if your forced to use a stock caliper that's I guess your only option

 

Well we have always had problems after about 30 min into are 90min enduro's that the brakes would just go away and cause many off track excursions. At on point during a race in homestead this june we got the brakes so hot that the heat transfered from the brakes to the hub and then to the axle. The axle got so hot that the fluid boiled up and the axle just exploded at the joint. This was all before the brake ducting.

So by doing this set up we have eliminated any type of temps like that again, the brakes now last a entire enduro. The wheels bearings are fairly new so i cant really say we are saving them by having this but i will tell you that the pads dont go away and you can see in the rotors there is less heat in them(they dont turn blue after each race)

As for the large sheild, we did that to try and force the are into and on the rotor, any little bit helps when you are in FL and racing in the summer.

If you look at how it mounts and where the hose is entering the hub area it is pretty similar to your set up just on the other side of the axle. This pic below will give you a better idea. The main thing we where going after was to cool down the rotors because we knew if those got cooler everthing else would.

 

That picture does show it better. That is not bad at all for a stock setup. Thumbs up!

 

I use a dryer duct (from Home Depot) to collect the air, OG Racing has the least expensive brake tubbing that I've seen, and a soup can at the end. I don't need a lot of cooling and this set-up has worked well for several years now. And it's cheap and easy.

I certainly can appreciate some of the other shown set-ups. Very nice.

http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/b...ake-system.php

 

I'm left wondering what, if any, work around is effective if you have to regularly remove your front bumper every time you put your car on/off your trailer to get to/from the track. I can not make that part permanent.

Thinking this through, putting the front bumper on, (4 bolts-easy), putting the splitter blade, (PITA) and reconnecting and securing front brake ducts? I am the owner/driver/crew/setup/sponsor and like easy when possible.

 

Can you use some 2x strips of wood on the trailer ramp to lengthen the ramp run to flatten it out?

I have seen the splitter and bumper as separatle peices, the collectors which allow air to pass into the duct stays on the car and are not attached to the bumper.

 

We used t bolt clamps to hold the hose on to the parts on the bumper. There is also a little slack so that even if the car is on jack stands you can take the bumper off and then disconnect the ducting. Its pretty easy to do and doesnt really take much time.