Hey everyone,

I kind of dropped off the face of the earth for awhile, but I couldn't forget this place

Question: Does your 1998-2002 Accord brakes suck, as in warping? I brake like a babyin my 2000 Accord, and after about 18k miles I took my car to Honda and they resurfaced my rotors. After that, still braking like a baby, they're already warped again and making the car shimmy when braking! What crock of **** is that? I have not once hit my brakes hard enough to remotely engage ABS. I guess you could say I brake like a granny. Anyway, what should I do or what have you guys done? I have about 27k miles on my car. I don't recall rotors warping so quickly. Thanks for any input.

 

Replace pads and rotors with units from Honda and Brembo, and get some fresh fluid in there.

 

Why should I pay for Honda rotors again when they're already ****? I can see pads as being a wear item, but not rotors. I'm not paying for something I shouldn't.

 

get some nice fat blanks. brembo.

then get used to the vibrations.

 

If u want a change get bremo

 

Pads being from Honda, and rotors being from Brembo. I guess I overestamate things sometimes.

Whether you like it or not, rotors are a wear item.

 

After owning 8 hondas here is my opinion: I can tell you the brakes started to suck major *** around at 1990 for the Accord and 1992 on the civics. Those cars got heavier and the brakes didnt really change. I've never owned a V6/Wagon accord or a prelude and cant comment on their brakes. I've never owned a Honda newer than a 1996 Civic CX, and it too warped rotors pretty bad.

I consider myself to be an experienced driver after 9 years of driving, and I don't ride the brakes.

My old 1986 LX-i never warped up rotors like this 1991 LX does. I think thinner/cheaper rotors are just one of the many ways auto manufactorers cut costs. Even my 1995 Mustang GT was a rotor eater until I bought Wilwood kit for it

 

are neuspeed slotted rotors and AEM pad combo a good setup?

brembo is freaking expensive (i mean the GT model)

 

These guys are speaking of brembo BLANKS... no drill or slot. Which can be had for like 30.00 from NOPI i think.

 

Palabra.

http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?...20Brake%20Disc

 

thanks, i never thought of Brembo have economical rotors

as far as i know all rotors will wrap if use it hashly

 

brakes turn kinetic energy into heat, and they are the most effective when used for the least amount of time. So your granny braking may be part of the problem. Also resurfased rotors are much more likely to warp or crack than new rotors.

 

but they also release heat to the air, and the more time you give it to do that, the less heat is in the braking system.
I think granny braking is still better than hard/moderate braking, which would add a sudden increase in the rotor's temp, rather than the gradual increase granny braking does.

 

Maybe you break-in the pads and the resurfaced rotors in correctly.

 

well this is what I was told about on track driving. Things may apply differently on the street where you don't have to worry about heat soak, but I think dragging the brakes is not the best way to slow the car down.

 

what fluid are yall using/suggest?

Sab who got his Brembo blanks for 30 shipped.

MAD BRAKEING POWER WILL SOON BE MINE

 

i have brembo blanks and KVR pads

no problems what soever and i brake like a ****...

i think the honda brakes are great... i think biggest problem is the master cylinder though...

 

I would like to state that we all conceed that the Kumho Ecsta Supra 712's are the best and most practical all around street performance tire, the brake fluid that gets the knod from most in terms of performance, price, and availability is the Valvoline "Synpower" Synthetic Dot4 fluid.

 

I do agree, but the tires were not the great wet weather autocross tire that I thought they would be. The valvoline syn lasts two track days and is good until the next time you hit the track.

 

KES's can lick my nuts. nothing personal. I just want my nuts licked.

 

actually Karl you are right and wrong............

on track we heat brakes up so hot that "granny" braking after that abuse will not allow heat to escape fast enough

on the street brakes will never get that hot and granny braking is not likely to warp rotors like you think

several different things can give you vibration...........
1. new pads will skip on old pads wear patches or heat spots until all the way broken in, which can require a little aggressive braking when on new rotors
2. small air bubbles in your lines will give a sensation of chattering in the brakes
3. bad bushings or improper bearing installation will do the same thing

 

In my experience, it has a lot to do with the driver and the conditions. A lot of hill driving and long brake application will warp a rotor very quickly. Also, I have seen people spray water on their hot rotors when washing their car. Not good. When a rotor is re-surfaced, there is less metal left on the rotor. Metal dissapates heat. Less metal = hotter surfaces = warped rotors.

Btw, do you use your left foot to brake? I've seen that a lot too. Older people do this a lot. You look at their brake pedal pad and the left side is worn off like they rest their foot on the pedal while driving. Left footed brake = warped rotors.

Food for thought.

 

That is not necessarily true.