Ive got a 1998 Accord v6 with fron duralast cmax plus brake pads and factory roters. After a few hard stops the brake pads start making alot of noise while driving and stopping. This will go away once the car has peen parked or stoped for a long period of time. I believe this noise is caused by the brakes overheating Would it be better if i converted to drilled and slotted roters?

 

Define "a lot of noise"........

Squeeking? Screeching? What?

Drilled/Slotted rotors are a waste of money, all you do is decrease your actual braking surface area.

Did you resurface your rotors before you changed your pads? I HIGHLY doubt you are overheating anything. Best setup is just Brembo blank rotors and some decent pads.

 

It is a combination of grinding and screeching but the roters are not warped or scratched. The roters were resurfaced when i got the pads and i thought that duralast cmax plus were decent pads? I figured that it was because they were overheating because it only does this when stopping from a higher speed and it stops once the car is cooled off.

 

The only time my brakes ever gave a grinding noise was when my rotors badly needed changing....

Concerning squeaking, did you install the backing shims correctly and also could you put some anti-squeal lube between the caliper an the shim?

Finally, everything duralast makes is crap.. Next time buy a decent brand such as wagner or even better than that would be akebono

 

Did you use any type of grease on the back of the pads before installing them?

Sand can get stuck between the pad and rotor sometimes and cause squealing.

 

I just did the Brembo blanks with Akebono ProACT pads on all 4 wheels of my '06. Holy crap is it an improvement over the stock setup. The original setup only had 46k on them and there was still plenty of life left in the pads, but the rotors were terribly warped.

 

Does it pull to one side when you brake hard? Or does the steering wheel shakes when you are braking?

 

The brakes were installed correctly with new pads, shims, lube, and resurfaced roters. The roters are not warped and nothing is stuck between the pad and roter because there are no groves of any kind. They only make that sound after braking hard only once or twice and it makes the screeching sound when the car is driving and stopping. BBut like i said once it has been sitting or cooled down everything works like new.

 

Your brakes are not overheating. Not unless you are doing hard 0-60 stops repeatedly or something of that nature.

Did you replace your rear brakes too or just fronts?

Drilled rotors are for reducing braking surface on drag cars to help prevent wheel lock during high speed braking. Slotted rotors are to allow gasses released from hi temp pads to vent from the braking surfaces. Nothing you are doing during day to day driving is going to need slotted or drilled rotors.

Get a tube of stop squeak compound and slather it on. Probably what is happening is you don't have enough, and when the brakes expand during heating they are squealing somewhere.

 

you need some jdm slotted and crossdrilled rotarsss y00

p.s. make sure they are jdm.

 

Sand is not going to cause large grooves.

You may want to just go through and remove the pads and inspect them for even wear on the pad, not the rotor.

 

u culd have bad rotors, and drilled/cross slotted rotors are worth it...they giv ultimate stopping power and air is passed thru the holes to decrease heat.

 

I have absolutely no clue where you read this but that is incorrect.

Some examples:

Brembo Slotted/Drilled - are not drilled by factory but by an outside source, result? Drilled areas fracture under heat and crack the rotor

Drilled AND/OR Slotted - decrease the effective surface area of the rotor and therefore the amount of surface for the pad to touch = less braking power

He is not overheating a 99 V6 Accord with a few stops.

 

Squealing/squeaking is almost never between the pad and rotor. Almost evertime it is the "pad" moving in the caliper (NVB between the metal backing of the pad and the caliper and bracket). Did you replace the "hardware", clips and ect that hold that pad in place. I will assume that the caliper and everything got a full bath in brake cleaner to remove dust and dirt. Also that all "slides" were well greased.

 

Okay so what i will do is take off and inspect the pads / roters. I will also put more if the brake lube and check my rear pads. I only replaced the front because the rear still have pad left. Would it make a difference to change the rear?

 

Could be cause by brake drag as well if its overheating.

 

Well it is only on hard stops and from higher speed stops at normal braking they are fine.

 

As a side note - did you use like a wire brush spinning wheel thing to polish up those retainer clips for the front and clear off all the junk on them?

 

Muffinman and co are talking sense...

It won't be too much work just to pop open the caliper and re-clean everything with a brush and some brake parts cleaner...
While you are in there it would also make sense to add some extra anti-squeal lube.. If neither step helps then you could be talking about a more serious issue...

 

All brake hardware is new and cleaned properly that is why the noise is the weirdest thing that is why i said it is only from high speeds. Would new rear pads make a difference?

 

The muffin man is correct. Drilled rotors are to reduce braking surface area to prevent wheel lock during high speed braking after a drag pass. The are also prone to cracking around the holes if simply drilled. You would need to make sure you get some with chamfered holes.

If the rear pads are worn down enough so the wear indicator is squealing then yes they would.

 

Okay well the rear pads are good they are just not ceramic as the front are. I know that your stopping power is mainly from the front though so that is why im not worryied about the rear for now if it will not make much of a difference.