my 94 civic wont rev past 3100 rpms acts like its hitting rev limit, throwing a cel code 4 but i replaced the dizzy and even tried different ecu and checked all wiring still nothing. today i was cleaning the intake manifold with tb cleaner with the car on and when i spray it in and push the throttle it revs to just under 6k....so is it limp mode or maybe low fuel pressure or something like that? tell me your input on what u think? thanks

 

any1?

 

ttt

 

Still have code 4 or any other codes?

 

yeah code 4 only

 

You must fix code 4 before you do anything else. Check the two CKP sensor wires that run between the distributor plug and ECU for an open or short.

 

i did i check all wiring and grounds tried different dizzys even took the car to a shop and they said replace the dizzy but i already had. when the car is warm it idles at 500 rpm barley stays on....

 

Did you check the wires with a digital multimeter? If not, that's what needs to be done. You can't find most wire problems by visual inspection. Put all of your energy into fixing code 4.

 

even tried different ecu's but same code. when car is on the 2nd click before it starts no code only when i start the car does the cel come on. turn off the car and back to 2nd click and no code everytime

 

Test the CKP wires properly.

 

yes i bought a digital multimeter and they were all around 700

 

700 Ohms? What is "they' and what specific tests did you do? Give details.

 

ill have a shop test em cuze i get the same outcome everytime i check.

 

Suit yourself. But you have a multimeter and the tests are pretty easy to do. Save some money and learn to do them yourself.

 

yes ohms and i did the resistance and continuity test

 

i know how to do em but the come out good everytime even on the ecu side

 

well thanks ronJ for ur input ill keep working on it

 

Were your tests on the distributor sensor itself inside the distributor? Because that's where you should measure 700 Ohms of resistance. I am saying that you need to test the two CKP wires that run between the ECU and distributor plug. For each wire, you need to run a continuity test to look for an open and a continuity to body ground test to look for a short.

 

ttt

 

the car idles a lil bit better now that the manifold is a lil bit cleaner

 

so does any1 think its in limp mode?