My 5th gen windows have been reallly slow to roll up and down lately. I tried lubricating the slides and any areas with friction but they are still slow. I am thinking it may be my alternator just is not charging the battery enough anymore. Because other things like lights and what not can be dim sometimes. I did a voltage test while my car was runnig and it dropped to 11.5 volts while the windows were being rolled down. With my brights, defroster and windows going it dropped to like 9.9 volts .

So anyone ever have the alternator replaced and have it improve the operation of the vehicle? If so how many miles were on your car when you did got a new one?

 

Sounds like you may need an alternator. Advance and Autozone do free alternator checks and it only takes 2 minutes. Just drive up and they'll clip the scanner on

 

i have the same problems and plus my my rpms drop and the engine stutters when i roll windows up or anything else electrical related. I'm ordering a new one today.

 

Sounds like we have similar problems. I also get the engine shutter sometimes when the voltage dips. Let us know if the new alternator helps.

 

no problem will do

 

It would be a good idea to remove and clean your alternator output and ground, engine ground, as well as your battery cables. I've replaced cables on my 4th gen, 5th gen and my buddy's 5gen to remedy similar problems. After you solve the problem (be it the alternator or grounds) I also reccomend a new Quality battery, -nothing from walmart- A honda factory battery is always great, but for about the same price you can pick up an Optima Redtop battery, or like me an Optima Yellowtop battery for a few bucks more. The Yellowtop doesn't have as high cold cranking amps, but has a better reserve capacity. I use my stereo allot without the car running and this helps allot. Used it off and on for about 3 weeks this winter and still started right up without running for several months.

hope some of this helps

 

i have a small braille battery thats less than a year old. but i did buy an alternator with higher amp output than stock. I also have about 20 feet of 2 gauge wire that im gonna redo some of the major grounds with to see if that solves my problems.

 

unless your charge light is on, your alternator is probably fine.

 

+1 i really think its a grounding issue cause after when i installed hyper grounds i can see the improvement of electrical circulation.

 

light wasn't on and when the engine was running i was looking at around 12.5 volts

 

You should be seeing about 14.4 volts at 2000 RPM with all accessories off and about 14.0-14.1 volts under load (i.e. blower motor running, high beams on). If you're under 13.5 volts, that's a problem. Dropping below 10 volts under load is definitely a problem. I'm very surprised that the charging light isn't flickering or coming on solid.

Edit: I missed this

Those dinky lightweight "racing" batteries aren't intended for the rigors of daily driving. They don't run multiple accessories very well and they can cycle out prematurely when used with certain charging systems. No wonder you're having voltage problems. Install a normal battery and I bet you'll see an improvement.

 

had a normal battery installed and had to problems thats why i bought a new one thinking it was the battery. Plus i dont really have any accessories in my car...no ps, ac, abs, cruise, dont even have the electric antenna anymore just have a cd player haha. i'll figure it out soon enough oh and car isn't daily driven.

 

I'm going to add my problem to this post any ideals would be great, I have a 90 honda accord automatic. when you start it cold rpm idle 1200 till warm then drops to 600 till you put it in gear then goes to 500 and sometimes as low as 400. problem is when Idling at startup voltage shows just a little over 14 volts, when warm in park or in gear shows 12 volts with air or lights on. but run both at same time the voltage starts slowly droping at Idle speed. give it a little gas and it is fine. I took battery to replace it and they run it thru a check and it says that it is good. I put new alt. on and it does same thing, took old alt to have checked and it was fine. checked both belts and replaced to make sure they were not too tight and causing the engine to strain. No lights are coming on showing anything to be wrong. the check engine light and S light both work because they where both on and flashing the codes for a VSS a couple of weeks ago when I bought it. I put a new one and it fixed the speedo and I reset them. Other things that I have done because it has a slight sputter to it at take off, un hook and sprayed AICV, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, cleaned battery post and wires, filled radiator and bleed the air out. I don't know what the rpms should be at, I have been looking at this site since I bought the car a couple of weeks ago and it has been very helpful. Thanks

 

reminds me, i have a nippion racing alternator if anyone wants to buy it. psshh sixty bucx

 

no one bought the alternator?