Well, i'm back again in search of answers. I thought I had this problem solved until just about 5 minutes ago when I went to the store to grab a pack of smokes.

THE CAR
1993 civic ex coupe, d15b vtec, p28, 5spd, still retaining ac and use it full blast all the time. NX wet kit, single nozzle 75 hit, i/h/e. No CEL's at the time.


THE PROBLEM
Went to a local salvage yard this morning to pick up a few misc parts and my car didn't miss a lick the whole way there and almost the whole way back. All of a sudden it started jerkin and buckin after I came to a complete stop and went to take off again. Finally it died and wouldn't start back up, 5 blocks from my house. I got a tow to my house and started investigating, sure it was an ignition problem.

MY FINDINGS
I have had a similiar problem before and it ended up being the ignition module inside the dizzy. Ended up the seal inside my old dizzy was leaking and there was oil inside. So I had an extra dizzy laying around and swapped them out. No dice, no spark at all. So on a hunch I changed the coil in the new dizzy out with my old coil. The car started, and still starts now, no issues there. Checked out the main relay just to be sure and it seems fine.

MY NEW PROBLEM
Under heavy acceleration, no nitrous going, the car jerks around and has a blatantly obvious misfire. Which i've had similiar issues with grounds and loose connections, but with the old dizzy I didn't have this issue. I'm stumped now and am asking for help, thanks in advance.

 

The extra dizzy with the new coil likely is the problem. Is the inner cover missing? Have you inspected the contact points on the rotor and inside the cap?

 

Inner cap is there, rotor and cap are brand new, the dizzy that I installed today was a re-manned dizzy with brand new parts in it.

 

Aftermarket distributors can be risky. Have you inspected the plugs and tested the plug wires?

 

Brand new, ngk plugs, and ngk blue plug wires.

Ron, is there any definite way of testing the coil? I know simply putting 3v through it with a multi-meter isn't exactly the best way to do it being that everything changes once the car is running and the coil is receiving 20,000 volts.

 

Also directed at Ron, once about a month ago my car died and threw a code, cel code 3, and I looked it up and it said it was the crank position sensor? Which I don't have. So I erased the code and it hasn't came on since.

But I just looked at another online manual which says that cel code 3 is the MAP sensor, which could very well be causing all my problems. But I haven't gotten the cel since that day.

 

The coil resistance tests may in some cases miss a problem, but it's always the place to start in my opinion because the tests identify most problems.

 

You do have a crank position (CKP) sensor inside the distributor, but code 3 is indeed for the MAP sensor. If you rule out other obvious possibilities, you can clean the MAP sensor and test the wires.

 

Bah, tested the connector at the map sensor, it was fine. So I put my old dizzy back in, put on a new map sensor and she fired right up, hasn't missed a lick since sunday and I was stuck in L.A. traffic for over an hour today with the ac blasted.

 

just read OP, not the rest, but my car did the same thing. I bought a new coil and rotor, worked perfect.