Hey guys, I'm soon going to be the owner of a '91 WagoVan, and I was wondering which B16 I would want to swap into it. On JDM Engine Depot they have one from 88-91 and one from 92-95. I wasn't sure which one most people use for these swaps.

 

it doesnt matter. one is obd0 and the other is obd1 there might be power differences.

 

It does matter.

The easier of the two to swap in will be the OBD0 88-91 version with its cable transmission.

I'm a little tipsy right now, so some of the details might be sketchy off the top of my head, but you'll want to get:

- Aftermarket engine mount kit (I like HASport)
- 90-93 Integra 5 speed axles
- Custom shift linkages (I like HASport)
- If keeping A/C get a custom A/C bracket (I like HASport as it fits either the Matsushita or Sanden compressor)
- If the wagon is NOT an RT4WD model (only model already 4 injector MPFI) you'll need to convert from DPFI to MPFI
- 90-93 Integra radiator hoses are needed, and use screw type clamps on radiator end as Integra hoses are slightly larger diameter than Civic radiator

You'll also need to make a few "adjustments" to the sheet metal/frame for clearance.

Driver's side frame rail needs to be bashed in to clearance the alternator pulley (like every other EF) and hood will need to be modded as to not tough the corner of the valve cover. The B16A might just clear, but my B18B swap (7mm taller block deck height) needed a touch of clearance.

I know a little about the wagon and B swaps:







The OBD1 version CAN be used, but it will add some extra difficulties such as converting wiring to OBD1 (mine is converted actually) and the hydro tranny requires more work and different mount kits.

Good luck

 

wagon is flawless man. i didnt have to dent my frame rail when i but a b18 in my old wagon, just had to notch the front cross member for my header to clear.

 

What he said. Only difference I had is that when I had my b18b in my ef I did not have clearance issues with the hood. Only when we did an ls/vtec did we have issues.

I hope this makes sense the way I try to describe it so here it goes. I always thought that with the blocks the mounting points were in the same place between the b16's and b18's so even though the b18 blocks are overall taller, since the mounting points are in the same place, the block is just closer to the ground, not closer to the hood.

so only with the addition of the taller vtec head will you have clearance issues with the hood. I could be wrong but that has just been my experience.


and with what he said, it also depends on which header you get. I used a one piece, 4-2-1 header with the HASport mounts and did not have to notch my cross member. when my friend used a 2 piece dc sport header, he did have to notch his front cross member.

 

Thanks man, I'll hopefully be buying it soon. It's a white 91, really good shape. 200k miles though.