Ok .....I'm changing my vc gasket and I decided to check/adjust the valve lash. But in curious or concerned about the jam nut. Once one sets the valve clearance spec...do u just hand tighten the jam nuts or to they have to be torqued? I've seen some say yes and some DIY say no. My dad says no. But I don't want to **** anything up. So if someone can enlighten me about this that be great.

TIA

 

I always torque them to spec. I think it's 13-14 ft-lbs, if I remember correctly.

 

i hand tighten mine but i'm a mechanic so i know what's enough plus i'm able to control my strength and not break them lol

they are not critical plus with a torque spec so low, you could easily do it by hand

 

I hand tighten. It's not by the book, but I'm fine with it.



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i too hand tighten. it's a feel sort of thing that to me would be hard to mess up (IMO). i keep the driver on the screw to make sure it doesn't move while i tighten the nut.

 

Ok...thanx. I just didn't want to buy another harbor freight torque wrench and gave problems again .

 

Also....im using this as a reference.

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7491

Now he states that i should adjust to the lowest spec. In my b18b1 case .003. For best performance. Is this true? Im just trying to clear things out before i try this tomorrow for the very first time. i dont want to do it twice.

He states that the .003 should slide in with some drag but the next .004 shouldnt. Thats how i would know its right. Anyone care to share their knowledge?

Thank You guys very much for the help so far. I just dont want to replace a head or engine..LoL.

 

idk about performance, but it's correct that the .003 should DRAG and the .004 shoould not fit.

also x100 on hand-tightening the jam nuts :D

 

in all honesty, it's gotta be done on feel. slight to moderate drag without sticking is my personal gauge, if i had to quantify it. whatever the helms says if it's OE cam(s), and adjust it until the drag is ideal with that particular gauge.

if lash is too loose, it'll be noisy. if it's too tight, it'll idle strangely and/or end up burning up a valve.

and i never paid attention to DOHC lash specs, but damn, that is very tight!!! the only time i ever had to run such a close lash on d-series was, for some reason or another, crower stage 3 required very tight lash specs vs. OE - it was like 4 thou intake, 6 thou exhaust vs. stock which IIRC is 7 thou intake, 9 thou exhaust. i wonder why DOHC is so much tighter than SOHC, it's not like SOHC materials 'grow' more then they heat up. maybe it's just a valvetrain geometry thing :shrugs:

 

Well my concern was pertaining to the specs. According to Honda manual intake is .003-.005 for example. Why would you choose the less tighter one.? Why not .005 instead of .003 is my curiosity.

 

it's a spec range, that's all.

IMO, if you are setting it, you'd want the tightest within the spec range, as it'd give you the slightest amount of added duration, and it would be quietest. and it would ideally give you the longest time between service intervals.

but if you are solely checking it, up to 5 thou is acceptable; no real need to change it. according to honda i guess anything more would be noisy or hinder performance, or allow things to degrade too quickly.

 

I have one doubt still. I've seen many valve lash adjustment videos. And I've seen some people place the feeler gauge between the valve spring retainer and another part there. The nut I think . I cant really explain it. And others between the cam lobe. So which one is it?

 

you slide it between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker tappet.



EDIT: not DOHC

 

Ah...hell yeah. Thanx bro. But yeah. That other write up u wrote you can see him sticking it in the lobe.

 

llike here....unless my eyes deceive me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=iE9EuQuyfXs

 

what other write up?!

 

This one

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7491

 

oh, i see what you are talking about. yeah, non-vtec DOHC. i didn't link that to you, but yes.

i forgot we were even talking about DOHC, sorry.

stand by...

ok, here is a rendering for your setup:



here is for dohc vtec...notice the lash adjuster is set much lower in the head





again, i'm sorry, i talk so much sohc i lost track that you had dohc.

 

So all in all it does go between the lobes?

 

Anyone?

 

yes, between the follower pad and the cam lobe, 100%. i'm sorry for the confusion earlier. i was talking about sohc and you are talking about dohc, lol. you were probably banging your head against the wall.

 

YES. Cam lobe and the rocker arm for DOHC

 

Yes and the wall had the best of me.

 

Well finally got of my *** and did it yesterday. I felt i did it right...i hope

My next question is after doing a valve lash adjustment is it recommended to reset the ecu or check the ignition timing?

Could the new valve clearances affect it? The intkae side of all my cylinders was way loose. Exhaust was a tad off. This is why i ask.

TIA

 

if it idles well and doesn't sound tappy any longer than you likely did it right. usually if you do them too tight the idle will be funny in some manner, like low, or inconsistent, etc.

re: resetting ECU, or checking timing, etc, i never did that after a valve adjustment. but what do i know at this stage hahaha