Battery is full power yet starter clicks like battery is dead
Car has been running great then one day i came out after it sit over night and the car wouldnt even turn over, so itried to jumped it thinking it was the battery and the car stil wont turn over. it clicks once like when the battery is dead. the positive terminal is also getting very hot and the lights inside dim when i turn the key to the forward position and go out when i try to start it. Any one had this problem or know how tofix it????
When the battery died in my 97 LX it did exactly what you just described. I drove the farmer's market one hot July afternoon, shopped for about 40 minutes, came back to the car and it could not even be jump started. AAA truck couldn't jump it. I had it towed back to my house thinking the starter was toast. I tried a new battery and it started fine. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it was too dead to take a charge. I talked to other Accord owners who had similar experiences, especially if it is extremely hot, like in August. Sudden Battery Death Syndrome?
Take your battery to the local auto parts store and have it checked. I bet it's expired.
Take your battery to the local auto parts store and have it checked. I bet it's expired.
cant you just pull the battery out of the 'jumper' vehicle and see if the car will turn over with it in it? if you still have the problem, you can look into the terminals, wiring, and relays.
ive had a few vehicles (including my current accord) that used to do similar things, but i could just twist the terminals around and it would crank over. i replaced the terminals, cut back and stripped the heavy-gauge power and ground (to get to fresh copper), and i havent had the problem since. im also a big fan of those anti-corrosion pads that you put under the terminals. they actually seem to do a pretty good job.
ive had a few vehicles (including my current accord) that used to do similar things, but i could just twist the terminals around and it would crank over. i replaced the terminals, cut back and stripped the heavy-gauge power and ground (to get to fresh copper), and i havent had the problem since. im also a big fan of those anti-corrosion pads that you put under the terminals. they actually seem to do a pretty good job.
cant you just pull the battery out of the 'jumper' vehicle and see if the car will turn over with it in it? if you still have the problem, you can look into the terminals, wiring, and relays.
ive had a few vehicles (including my current accord) that used to do similar things, but i could just twist the terminals around and it would crank over. i replaced the terminals, cut back and stripped the heavy-gauge power and ground (to get to fresh copper), and i havent had the problem since. im also a big fan of those anti-corrosion pads that you put under the terminals. they actually seem to do a pretty good job.
ive had a few vehicles (including my current accord) that used to do similar things, but i could just twist the terminals around and it would crank over. i replaced the terminals, cut back and stripped the heavy-gauge power and ground (to get to fresh copper), and i havent had the problem since. im also a big fan of those anti-corrosion pads that you put under the terminals. they actually seem to do a pretty good job.
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jef-con1 it is almost always as he said.As the saying goes"use known good unit". Often a battery with slight load will perform for a limited time, but the minute a large load is put upon it = done. If your into it ,and do all your own work ,it's good to buy a battery load tester.Eastwood pro. sells a decent one ,it puts a 135 amp load on it, and tells the story.It's always good to look at cables closely, even under covering, for corrosion,broken strands ect.. And always good bare metal ,clean ground.
jef-con1 it is almost always as he said.As the saying goes"use known good unit". Often a battery with slight load will perform for a limited time, but the minute a large load is put upon it = done. If your into it ,and do all your own work ,it's good to buy a battery load tester.Eastwood pro. sells a decent one ,it puts a 135 amp load on it, and tells the story.It's always good to look at cables closely, even under covering, for corrosion,broken strands ect.. And always good bare metal ,clean ground.
Ok so we know that battery is good (at least the one from the other car), check the voltage AT the starter. If you have the proper voltage then it is looking like the starter and don't forget to check the solenoid connection. Take your battery and the starter to the store and have them test both.
i think its probably a wiring short, not a bad part, because he said the + terminal gets real hot and the lights get dim when he turns the key to ACC. it wouldnt hurt to check the starter and solenoid just to rule them out, but i doubt they are the problem.
for the starter, he could run a hot wire to it from the other car and see if it cranks over. im not sure about these models, but if the solenoid is not built in the starter, he could pull and test it with a multimeter.
the OP probably needs to check the link in my sig and see if he can find the manual for his car. electrical problems are nearly impossible if you dont know what wires go to what.
for the starter, he could run a hot wire to it from the other car and see if it cranks over. im not sure about these models, but if the solenoid is not built in the starter, he could pull and test it with a multimeter.
the OP probably needs to check the link in my sig and see if he can find the manual for his car. electrical problems are nearly impossible if you dont know what wires go to what.
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