i need a diagnosis..
The engine is a d15b1 dpfi
The problem, it cranks over the the cranking suddenly stops as if there was something holding it back.
How it happened..I was pulling off the freeway and the car suddenly lost power. When I went to start it it sounded like the timing jumped.
What I've checked...
Timing
Replaced dizzy
Injectors are spraying
air intake
No cel codes
Could anyone help me with my daily driver?? Thanx in advance
The problem, it cranks over the the cranking suddenly stops as if there was something holding it back.
How it happened..I was pulling off the freeway and the car suddenly lost power. When I went to start it it sounded like the timing jumped.
What I've checked...
Timing
Replaced dizzy
Injectors are spraying
air intake
No cel codes
Could anyone help me with my daily driver?? Thanx in advance
I always say this...
Fuel, Spark, and Compression. Your engine needs all three in order to run.
Assuming you have checked timing properly (crank and cam in sync with one another as well as distributor timing) and you do in fact have fuel coming out of each injector, then the only thing would be compression. Have you done a compression test yet? Was the crank aligned with the cam properly when you initially checked?
Fuel, Spark, and Compression. Your engine needs all three in order to run.
Assuming you have checked timing properly (crank and cam in sync with one another as well as distributor timing) and you do in fact have fuel coming out of each injector, then the only thing would be compression. Have you done a compression test yet? Was the crank aligned with the cam properly when you initially checked?
Yea everything was butter when I checked it. Havnt done a compression test but I used a piece of tape over the spark plug hole without the spark plug, and compression was nice and strong on all 4 cylinders
why did you replace the distributor? did your old one seize?
I have experienced something similar occur, and it was the distributor bearing that seized. I have read that sometimes it can cause your timing belt to loose some teeth or even break your camshaft if you are going sufficiently fast.
sorry to say, but if you are not getting any cel at all, then i suspect something mechanical might be up. I would start by just pulling the valve cover and seeing what you can see.
I have experienced something similar occur, and it was the distributor bearing that seized. I have read that sometimes it can cause your timing belt to loose some teeth or even break your camshaft if you are going sufficiently fast.
sorry to say, but if you are not getting any cel at all, then i suspect something mechanical might be up. I would start by just pulling the valve cover and seeing what you can see.
How did it become unsynced? how far out is it?
to resync it, you need to take the timing belt off as if you are doing a belt change, and rotate the top and bottom independently until they are both at TDC again. then put the belt back on. you need to be very careful doing this though. do it by hand, and at the first hint of binding, rotate the other half in the direction it needs to go.
once you get it synced back up, do a compression test, because if you bent a valve, it will show up in the test.
to resync it, you need to take the timing belt off as if you are doing a belt change, and rotate the top and bottom independently until they are both at TDC again. then put the belt back on. you need to be very careful doing this though. do it by hand, and at the first hint of binding, rotate the other half in the direction it needs to go.
once you get it synced back up, do a compression test, because if you bent a valve, it will show up in the test.
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How would I know if the #1 set of valves is on the 1st stroke?
I think its because the tensioner needs to be replaced it seems like it jumped a whole stroke
I think its because the tensioner needs to be replaced it seems like it jumped a whole stroke
Exactly. The head and block sync'd is the crank and cam. That isn't the problem, that's the result of the problem. The bad part is the possible worst case scenario, you crashed a valve...or two or three, etc. As stated above, a faulty distributor can cause the timing belt to jump or even sheer off some teeth on the timing belt. You mention your tensioner is bad and that too can cause the timing belt to jump. It's up to you to find the problem. Now on to what you can do in the meantime...
From your post I'm guessing you've never changed your timing belt by yourself. It can be tricky so if you have someone that can help you (and knows what they are doing) it would be much better than trying to take this on without any help at all. First thing you need to do is set your engine back at Top Dead Center (TDC). You can tell by looking at the camgear, there are two marks that will be level with the head/valve cover mating surface as well as the word "UP" at the top of the camgear (also there will be a third mark pointing at 7 o'clock on the camgear). Rotate the engine counter clockwise until the camgear is at TDC. The camgear should sit like this:

Now, after setting the camgear to it's TDC alignment, you'll need to look down at the crank pulley and verify it is at TDC. There should be three timing notches on it grouped together, they are used to adjust distributor timing so don't worry about them right now. There should be one more notch an inch and half or so just past the group of three (in the direction of the firewall). That is your TDC mark for your crank and should be aligned with timing marks on the timing belt cover. It should look similar to this:

If it's not aligned with the timing mark, then you'll need to loosen the tensioner and move the belt as necessary. Be careful when doing this, it's tricky if you've never done it. During this process, pay attention to the teeth in the belt to see if any are damaged or missing.
Once everything is aligned properly, you can try to start it. I'd suggest doing a few rotations by hand to double check and make sure that mechanical timing is good. Hopefully there is no damage but if it doesn't fire up then you gotta investigate a bit more. Do a compression test like "sanimalp" stated, and do a real test not tape over the spark plug.
From your post I'm guessing you've never changed your timing belt by yourself. It can be tricky so if you have someone that can help you (and knows what they are doing) it would be much better than trying to take this on without any help at all. First thing you need to do is set your engine back at Top Dead Center (TDC). You can tell by looking at the camgear, there are two marks that will be level with the head/valve cover mating surface as well as the word "UP" at the top of the camgear (also there will be a third mark pointing at 7 o'clock on the camgear). Rotate the engine counter clockwise until the camgear is at TDC. The camgear should sit like this:

Now, after setting the camgear to it's TDC alignment, you'll need to look down at the crank pulley and verify it is at TDC. There should be three timing notches on it grouped together, they are used to adjust distributor timing so don't worry about them right now. There should be one more notch an inch and half or so just past the group of three (in the direction of the firewall). That is your TDC mark for your crank and should be aligned with timing marks on the timing belt cover. It should look similar to this:

If it's not aligned with the timing mark, then you'll need to loosen the tensioner and move the belt as necessary. Be careful when doing this, it's tricky if you've never done it. During this process, pay attention to the teeth in the belt to see if any are damaged or missing.
Once everything is aligned properly, you can try to start it. I'd suggest doing a few rotations by hand to double check and make sure that mechanical timing is good. Hopefully there is no damage but if it doesn't fire up then you gotta investigate a bit more. Do a compression test like "sanimalp" stated, and do a real test not tape over the spark plug.
Last edited by 24TEN; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:16 AM. Reason: Added pictures
Thanx 4 clairifying 24ten
I was told that I needed to set the timing @ the middle mark that was grouped together not tdc. Ill put it back to tdc thanx
I was told that I needed to set the timing @ the middle mark that was grouped together not tdc. Ill put it back to tdc thanx
Yeah, I've done it myself too. Just remember, the group of three marks is for setting distributor timing only. Mechanical timing is the single notch.
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