Is puting a stroker crank on a boosted b18c a good idea? i blew my crank so i was thinking maybe going with a stroker but know zero about them.

The car will be a daily driver running 10psi daily, The rest of the motor is allready fully built.

 

eagle steel lightwight crankshaft knife edged 95mm stroke.
4340 steel billet rods w/ARP 220,000 p.s.i. fasteners.
JE aluminum forged pistons 85mm
9310 series carbon steel alloy wrist pins.
Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.
Features spiral locks for ultimate pin support.
ACL Race Series rod and main bearings included.
Fully system balanced and ready to install.
11:5:1 compression

This would be the setup minus the pistons

 

how did you manage to "blow" an OEM Honda Crank?

anyway just run an OEM crank (GSR or LS), not worth the hassle/problems of an non-oem crank.... I dont understand why people try and build a super motor for an engine that is going to be driven every day on just 10psi, just a big waste of cash IMO

 

Same way you manege to blow anything else, Bad luck. Why even post **** like that?

Why not build a super motor for the street? Why go boost for the street? Why run a built motor on the street?

The question was why not. I gotta rebuild it anyways so why not pony up and buy a stroker. Thats what i hate the most about the b18c is the low torque at low rmps.

Thanks for your 10 cents.

All i want to know is the stroker cranks unreliable for a boosted b18c

 

Well, I guess he's trying to say that because of the great usability and reliability of the LS/B20 OEM crank, there really isn't much of an advantage to purchase a $700 billet steel crank. Because the engine is going to be turbocharged, there really is no advantage to a lighter crank for reduced rotational inertia in an application that is only going to be used in the street, and not for a particular race purpose.

There is also the possibility of increased difficulty in selecting the correct bearings, clearances, etc. The Eagle cranks weren't popular because supposedly there were some issues with them being defective (rumor mill ), but either way, for most people who wanted something strong and reliable, they simply micropolished a B20 or LS crank, and went from there as their "stroker". Only if you plan on 92mm or 95mm in a B-series (to make it 2.1 litre or more) would these other cranks be used.