Allright so when I got my civic it had a temporary oil plug cause apperantly the girl who had it stripped the threads. At first it was fine but when I changed the oil and used another temporary it started leaking oil. Lil drips at a time but it was annoying so I bought another plug but an oversized one and it felt like it tightened completely but today on my way to my sisters I heard a thump and a few minutes later my oil light came on and when I checked the plug was gone and my trunk was covered in oil.

So here's my question, is there a certain plug I can buy that will work or should I just replace the oil pan. Any help is appreciated thanks

 

I'd just replace the oil pan. I had this problem last year. I tried oversized plugs, and also re tapping the hole all with no luck.

 

Damn well I searched the forums and it says I need a pan a gasket and something else ? I'm just tired of leaking oil everywhere I go .. On a side note anyone got a spare pan I cAn buy before I hit up autozone

 

Also how difficult was. It I've never changed one

 

Well it all depends. If you get the ex pan (aluminum), those Do Not use a gasket. Just RTV or Honda bond. If you buy a lx pan (steel) then you need a gasket for it. U can run either or on your block regardless what others say. I've done it.

As for install it's pretty easy. You will have to drop your exhaust so that the pan can come down to remove. Other than that it's just a lot of nuts/bolts to take off and then you need to pry it off.

 

If I can run either then I'll just go for the one that's cheaper. And cool i've been meaning to put my new exhaust on anyways just been laggin it , two birds one stone. Thanks alot bro

 

Let me know how the install goes bro. I temporarily have an oversized drain plug as well and I'm looking into replacing the oil pan really soon.

 

While I hunt down a new oil pan I went and got the oversized one that fit and some thread locking glue -_- I'll let you know bro

 

WOW! $268 at the dealer. $75 here: www.car-part.com

 

Yeah oem is freaking expensive lol

 

Yeah I bought mine for like 60 off of car-parts.

 

My dad suggested I just take it to a welder and have it repaired. Does anyone know if that's an option for our oil pans?

 

Welding is always an option, but it would likely cost you just as much to replace the oil pan with a used one as it would to have the guy weld the one you already have.

Just look around a bit, make a WTB, etc. etc.

 

O ok... thanks

 

Yeah , but it's just easier to replace. Managed to cut new threads into it yet still dripping a bit. It'll hold til I get a new one

 

I just received an oil pan I ordered from that website posted above; cost me $100 shipping included. Should I clean the oil pan first before installing it? With what should I clean it with?

 

YES. Clean it before install. Don't want anything floating around and being put thru the motor. Your engine will love you. Engine gunk will work. You can get that at your local vatozone, o'rileys ect....

 

Mine got installed with the new motor:D

 

Okay thanks! So before I start working on this I want to verify that I got all this down.

1. Drain oil and change oil filter
2. Drop down pipe by removing two spring bolts
3. Remove transmission brackets (4 bolts)
4. Unbolt oil pan and remove
5. Scrape off any excess gasket left from previous pan and add bead of hondabond to new pan.
6. Install and bolt everything in reverse order.
7. Let hondabond cure over night then add oil.

Is this correct? On step 5 where exactly does the hondabond go? On step 6 is there a certain order I need to follow when bolting the new pan back on?

 

Have you bought honda bond yet? If not go to autozone and buy the black rtv. It's oil resistant. I'm assuming you got the ex pan (aluminum) not the lx pan (steel). Run a bead around the whole pan where it mates up to the block. Make sure you put a little extra on the ends where it dips down. If I was you I'd start by putting the nuts on so it will hold the pan up. Then screw all the bolts in by hand then just go around it and tighten them then go around once more and make sure they are tight, but be careful not to strip them. You're screwing into aluminum.

Also, when I did my tapped pan a few months ago, I bolted her all up and put oil in it right when I was done and was driving it 2 hours later.

 

Yea I'm picking up a tube of hondabond tomorrow so I can work on it on the weekend. Do you know the torque specs for the oil pan?

 

considering that hole is the difference from getting 38mpg or dropping the money on a completly new engine, id suggest getting a new one man just bite the bullet and buy a new one that will not give you problems. im also finding it fishy that the girl was the reason the plug was stripped, how many girls do you know that change oil?

 

so your engine was blown? i was gonna say oil over trunk and no drain plug = KA BOOM!!!!

 

No, just make them snug. Not to tight.

 

Okay so I've begun the removal process. Everything was going smooth until I ran into this problem. I can't seem to remove the pan because there's something in the way. Anyone have the same issue?