I have a 1993 ex, my break pedal has been feeling alittle too soft lately and when i need to brake hard the power to stop just isn't there for me even under normal driving conditions. This makes me nervous as I am newly turbo'd. I have cross/slotted rotors in the front and EBC greens that maybe have about 1000 miles on them, don't make fun of me but I have drums in the rear. I was told today that maybe an adjustment on the rear drums will fix the problem, but i haven't the slightest clue on how to do that?? also i was thinking of maybe just bleeding my brakes - any suggestions? input?

thanx in advance!

 

Did it happen all of a sudden? or you just noticed it slowly getting worse... Sounds like you have air in your lines or you have old fluid...did you ever bleed the brakes recently? You should try that first...
Does your pedal sink the floor when you're completely stopped? this could be the master cylinder seal.
adjusting the rear drums? Can you clarify?

 

all my teacher said was try adjusting my rear drums, he's kind of a ***** though and i really didn't get into depth with him on it, thats actually where the convo ended..i'm a student at lincoln tech, just started so that would explain why i'm alittle lost..anyhow no i haven't tried bleeding yet and the pedal does not hit the floor...i guess u can say this problem has been going on for a while now, i was never really too concerned with it until i became boosted cuz stopping is equally as important as going fast lol. In my head it just feels like there could be some air in the lines i suppose, i'm gonna give this a shot today.....

 

oh yeah, try bleeding it for sure since the fluid breaks down after a while

 

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=153653

how does this write up look to you? this guy seems pretty damn precise!

 

If you're by yourself you can just do gravity bleeding... I use this method and i always get rock-solid brake pedal feel.. My experience when an assistant helps me pump the brakes using the usual method of pumping the lines is that the air inside the brake lines get mixed around so much that the air already in the lines break up into tinier air bubbles which makes it take forever to get out.
With gravity bleeding all you do is loosen the brake caliper nipple and slowly let gravity (hence gravity bleeding) drain out fluid into a container through a hose. The hose has to loop upwards so that air can't be reintroduced into the line... This process takes longer than someone assisting you, but you get a complete flush of the system and also if you dont have someone to help you out, this works just fine

 

You may be interested in the One Man Brake Bleed Tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ZJVZJDCP53P00X

I bought mine for $4 at Harbor Freight Tools. Works great without an assistant.

 

i've got a buddy coming to help me out right now actually thanx a bunch guys!

 

i got the best bleeding advice when i was having brake issues, **** tools! i got a vacuum pump and it was gay and took forever. so get a bottle, fill it halfway with brake fluid. put hose from bleeder into bottle. unscrew bleeder and start pumping, it works beautifully. as long as the hose is submerged it cant suck air back in. just throwing it out for everyone to remember when your lazy *** friends wont come over, which was my issue.

 

Is there a visual description of this process?

Found a vid on the vacuum method

 

you're describing pretty much what i was saying except the pumping part. I think both procedure would work as long as the fluid is backed up so you'll be able to see if there are any air bubbles left while you're pumping/gravity bleeding