Actually, it's been done for a while. After the oil squirter clearance problem (just took the assembly out), every thing was running fine. then a tensioner bolt broke and shredded the timing belt. thank god, no damage done. leek down was fine, no bent valves. But I still have one problem. This has been ever since the motor was dropped in. at about 5k rmp, vtec or not, i get a hissing noise. I thought it would be EGR so i replaced the gasket. no luck. took the vacume line to the EGR off and pluged the line up. Should this de-activate the EGR? well, after that i still had the problem and it did trigger the MIL code 12 (EGR). But i normally dont get any codes at all. Any help? by the way, engine feels awsome. it better, for what i paid for it. late


[Modified by bb1turbovtec, 7:13 AM 9/16/2002]

 

Don't have any answers for you but I'd really like to see pix of the build up if you have them.

 

Hey I have a 2.3 vtec set up as well. I also had a problem with a tensioner bolt and unfortunately I had to have the valves replaced and the seats machined. A good $1500 dropped for a motor I only had 5000 miles on. Anyway I have a few problems that I am trying to work out and so I noticed that you are from Oregon. So am I. Where in Oregon? Who built your motor? Anyway I thought that we may be able to help each other out at times and so I thought I would reply to your post. Right now Im trying to figure out a check engine light that throws a code 9 which is supposed to be a sensor in the distributor but I replaced the dist. and it still throws the code even after I reset it. Any ideas?

 

it could be a problem with your enigne mounts allowing your engine to torque so much that exhaust gas is leaking out of your header/cat junction. i remember reading about this in SCC a while back. they had the same problem with their JRSC civic Si.

 

As far as the EGR valve, I read once on a site of a guy who said you could get more power by closing it off. I did this on my old H23 and had no problems. I took the EGR off, got an old computer power supply case and used the metal from it to make the plate. I laid the EGR on top of the metal, traced it out, drilled holes through the metal, and then bolted the metal plate between the EGR and the intake. Worked fine. Never through a code.

 

yea i did it the same way as canabis, works great...i think, but im not sure, that removing the hose keeps it open all the time

 

Ok, to the guy in Oregon, I am in Eugene... And i built with help from Racing Trendz. what are the odds we bolt break the tentioner bolt? weird.

about the EGR, i am not going to make the plate to bypass it because i will through codes, and i dont like the idea of racing under the ecu's "safe mode" running lean, and blowing it up. I will find another way.

about the mounts, mine are custom and the engine hardly moves. i dont think torque is causing exhaust leak. i think i maybe just need EGR selonoid.

 

When I bypassed the EGR with metal plate, it threw no codes.

 

what did you do with the connector? just left it unplugged?

 

I left the electrical connector plugged in.

 

code 12 on a obd1 ecu will not put the ecu in limp mode.

 

plugged into what? i'm confused...

 

Hello h22 has any one herd of it why bother with a h23 vtec when you can just stroke a h22 for less money and get hella more power with less problems. Theirs a guy that goes by the name 2point6 on honda society his h22 was stroked to a 2.6ltr and put down 250+hp to the wheels and 170+lbs tq.

 

very helpful post hey lets go talk about other people's cars and contribute nothing!

 

Some people start with an h23 and go from there rather than buying another motor. Not everyone can afford an h22 and a stroker kit. And we know of 2point6, he's on this forum quite often. And I think he's had a couple of problems as well, so there are problems with both stroking the motor and putting a vtec head on.

 

did you even read my post? I have an h22 with a h23 crank. i love posers who think they know everything when their just repeating something they heard somewhere... by the way... car is in the shop again. i really need to talk with other people who have done this to get some advice. if anyone could help me out with some resources that would be great! not much on h23 vtec that i've found. thanks

 

you might want to clean out the vtec solonoid filter...cottonwoodz knows more about this...also about the egr, you take it off, cut a plate in the shape of the egr, drill 2 holes where the bolts go though, gasket seal it, and put the egr back w/the plate between the egr and the itm. connect everthing like normal, no codes and no egr.

here is the post they were talking about it in: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=279833

also for info about h23 vtec talk to rocketlude, he is a new member on here but i've known him from hp.com for a long time....great guy

rocketlude@aol.com


[Modified by 93ludevtec, 1:51 PM 9/19/2002]

 

oh ya btw, he's the one making 551 whp w/his street driven h23 vtec

 

Is this more complicated than the H23Block and H22 Head? Are you having these problems solely because it's H23 crank in an H22?

 

I've done the exact same thing, but I get a code with in 5 minutes of driving

 

What kind of problems are you guys having, out of curiosty?

 

I wouldn't call it a problem, just an anoyance. The check engine light is just always on due to the egr keeping me from knowing if any real problems come up. We tried looping the wires going from the solinoid to the egr and back. But the light still comes on, probably cause the ecu thinks that the egr is always open. Maybe denting the plate inbetween the egr and manifold and hooking everything up as normal will work. That way it can still open but not let any gases through. Other than that, I'm at a loss.

 

umm and again plugged into what? if you remove the EGR what's there to plug into ? or you simply blocked off the passage on the intake many bolted the EGR Back up with a plate under it right?


[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 5:29 PM 9/21/2002]

 

I dont get why plugging your EGR valve up helps any. The EGR only opens when the ECU is in closed loop, and the EGR valve should never be open at 20% to WOT. I could see doing it if the valve was stuck open,or not operating right. But just to do it, dont make any sense to me. IMHO

 

well when i did it, i didnt know that, and even now i thought it closed at around 50 %. i did it at the time to improve crusing throttle response...it only takes 5 min and it cant hinder performance, so i didnt see a prob. trying it.