i need adivce!
i have blown my motor it has rod knock its a b18 c with a type R transmission , i was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on a build and what i can salvage from the motor to build a new one. i want to be able to daily drive the car so it cant be to agressive of a build but i defiantly want some power. i want 200whp. any imput would be greatly appreciated.
^ pretty good idea.
find a b20 block, have it checked out(clearances, straightness, bores aligned, etc........theres a VERY long list of things you can have checked but im not gonna try and remember all of it(im sure there are plenty of things that i dont know too) and its not necessary to have everything checked, just the basics. put some forged rods in it, forged pistons(idk what happens to compression when u put a gsr head on a b20 block but id be looking for 10-11:1 compression(to keep it very streetable and shouldnt HAVE to run premium), mild cams, maybe a bigger TB and IM, header and exhaust. good to go. if you wanna squeeze a lil bit more out of her then port-match the TB to the IM, IM to the head, and head to the header. put it on the dyno and have it tuned. id say tune it up to about 8500, but for normal daily regular use i wouldnt go above about 7500-8000 just to extend the life of the engine. also mild cams probably wont perform too well after about 7500-8000. so it may be best just to set the rev limiter at 8.
i think what i have there should give you at least 200whp, maybe more. but it will still be a streetable engine with good low end torque of the b20, but now with vtec itll have great top end too.
just looking on summitracing.com a set of eagle forged rods, and je forged pistons is gonna run you about $1100 plus shipping. but eagle has a bottom end kit that has forged rods, pistons, rings, etc......AND a forged crank for like $1500. now im sure you can find ALL of this stuff used for alot less. but to go in a dependable car, id rather go with new and a warranty so i know its right the first time. your choice on what to do, just throwing out some info. good luck.....anymore questions ask.
find a b20 block, have it checked out(clearances, straightness, bores aligned, etc........theres a VERY long list of things you can have checked but im not gonna try and remember all of it(im sure there are plenty of things that i dont know too) and its not necessary to have everything checked, just the basics. put some forged rods in it, forged pistons(idk what happens to compression when u put a gsr head on a b20 block but id be looking for 10-11:1 compression(to keep it very streetable and shouldnt HAVE to run premium), mild cams, maybe a bigger TB and IM, header and exhaust. good to go. if you wanna squeeze a lil bit more out of her then port-match the TB to the IM, IM to the head, and head to the header. put it on the dyno and have it tuned. id say tune it up to about 8500, but for normal daily regular use i wouldnt go above about 7500-8000 just to extend the life of the engine. also mild cams probably wont perform too well after about 7500-8000. so it may be best just to set the rev limiter at 8.
i think what i have there should give you at least 200whp, maybe more. but it will still be a streetable engine with good low end torque of the b20, but now with vtec itll have great top end too.
just looking on summitracing.com a set of eagle forged rods, and je forged pistons is gonna run you about $1100 plus shipping. but eagle has a bottom end kit that has forged rods, pistons, rings, etc......AND a forged crank for like $1500. now im sure you can find ALL of this stuff used for alot less. but to go in a dependable car, id rather go with new and a warranty so i know its right the first time. your choice on what to do, just throwing out some info. good luck.....anymore questions ask.
Last edited by newtron63h; Jul 22, 2010 at 08:54 AM.
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dont go forged piston/rods...expensive and not needed for dd...stock rods, pr3 pistons, pro cams, good valvetrain....go to all motor dyno charts to see what everyone is using and get a ideal of what power to expect...just built my 1st all motor a few months ago...lovin it...although my belt snapped last week, i got lucky, still runnin...
people here go overboard on simple ****. you already have the motor and cams to achieve 200whp.. i would just get that block fixed at the machine shop and deck the block .020 and call it a rap. a nice header, cam gears and a bored out throttle body would get you there. just get your block rebuild.
by the way... LAP YOUR F#@%!NG VALVES!! i'm tire of dudes "building" motor and they put the head back on with the same valve seats with 150,000 worth of beating. have your seats relapped. i bet if you car was running and you JUST lap your valves you would feel a WAAAYYYY healthier motor.
by the way... LAP YOUR F#@%!NG VALVES!! i'm tire of dudes "building" motor and they put the head back on with the same valve seats with 150,000 worth of beating. have your seats relapped. i bet if you car was running and you JUST lap your valves you would feel a WAAAYYYY healthier motor.
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From: stockton, ca, united states
I'd suggest going with b20 block RS ITR 84mm or 84.5mm with some eagle rods total $600. There are tons of builds being daily driven with this setup. I believe alot of guys are reaching 250 whp with some aggressive cams and nice head package. So 200 whp with your head will be doable. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to make a bit more probably around 210-220 with a header like Pro-fab, hytech rep, or Kiddracing RMF. There is a thread with tons of info about b20 stock sleeve build. Look it up and you'll know where to start.
Here's the link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2A%2A%2Aofficial-all-motor-stock-sleeve-b20vtec-thread%2A%2A%2A-1555476/
Here's the link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2A%2A%2Aofficial-all-motor-stock-sleeve-b20vtec-thread%2A%2A%2A-1555476/
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