So I might be re-asking this question but i have tired researching for it and couldn't really find the right answer. I need the car running soon

So I rebuilt my d16z6, everything is stock except for my pistons and connecting rods, the pistons are dome aftermarket pistons for a 88-89 integra and the connecting rods are oem from a 86-87 integra for higher compression. It's creating a severe spark knock. I know this set up has been done before so im wondering what did you guys do to make that problem go away? valve adjustment? advanced the ignition timing? premium gas? more octane?. If so, how much? I'm trying to keep it N/A so i'm not thinking of nitrious.

 

YOU NEED A TUNE ASAP. RETARD YOUR BASE TIMING. PREMIUM GAS ONLY ON HIGH COMPRESSION MOTORS. u obviously have not searched hard enough this stuff has been covered before.

 

do u have any idea what kind of compression your making? stock cams? whats ecu? How do you know its knocking? to b on the cautious side do what ^ he said, retard base timing and put in the high octane (higher octane=higher knock resistance).

 

Yeah dude you need a tune. what map are you running right now? I know p29's in a single cam raise the cr pretty high. like they said only use premium and retard timing, advancing it will make it worse.

 

i had this same setup and was getting knock as well i had to retard base timing quiet a bit. but the douche from dhracing didn't build my block rite and didn't put wrist pin locks in and they slid into my cylinder walls and the block was fubar in 3k miles. so i didn't get to mess with it much. good luck... i wouldn't run it long without a real tune. your compression is probably near 9:7

 

Do not turn the key to start that engine again untill these things are done. First, contact any reptuable tuning shop for a chipped and basemapped ECU. Second, Retard the mechanical timing. Third, drain as much of your 87 octane fuel as possible, refill with 93 octane. Fourth, drive like grandma to a tuning shop to get dyno tuned. Fifth, enjoy your N/A D. -Later, BR

 

When I did the compression test, it was holding up to 200 psi, it's stock cam from d16z6. i'm sure it's a spark knock cuz it's sort of a school project. My teacher was the one who told me. The ecu is the p28 one, the stock ecu from an si.

?? sorry dude, im not sure what your asking =/

Well you think if i just retard the timing, and fill like two bottles of octane booster and THEN drive it to get it dyno tuned and chip, would that be okay?


thanks guys, I know I should search a little harder but i'm sorta running out of time and this would be a lot faster

 

Off the top of my head i think your in the area of 13:1 compression which is almost to much for pump gas. Take a look at a comp calculator at zealautowerks.com or elsewhere to see a ballpark figure. Your teacher may be right but its really hard to hear detonation. Your running a p28 which is a stock "map" for the z6 which is used to seeing 9:1 compression. My stock z6 pushes 210 on a compression tester. Where in the rpm range is he hearing the detonation? If he is the teacher he should of already told you to reduce timing and run at least 93, maybe add some colder plugs too

 

Hi I am from Costa Rica and I race my Honda with the D16Z6 engine and I am a amateur engine builder. With a 200 lbs with stock cams you are running about 11:5 C.R. To high for street use, you should decrease your C.R. If you are planning for drag or race, considered getting a hot street cam as soon as posible.
I do not recomend using the car right now, even with 95 octane gasoline as it is. If you really need the car, try to get racing fuel C-116 ( 116 octane) normaly used in turbo racing engines and retard the timing. The other solution is to lower the C.R. using the head gasket from a d15 engine Honda Civic DX( 1.9mm thick conventional gasket, not metal gasket, perfect fit ), that should lower your C.R to about 10:5 or 180 lbs of compression.

There is a web site for Honda to calculate C.R using OEM pistons from other D-engines. Let me check .............I don´t have it in my list of favorites, I need 30 minutes to search that information.

 

The web site to calculate C.R. in Honda D engines using others D pistons, gaskets, rods is the following ( REALLY WORKS! ):www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm
Good Luck!
Your pistons can be the PG6 ( USD16A1) for a C.R. of 11.67:1, depends on your deck heigth

The fuel is called C-16, not C116. That fuel es from VP Racing or try to get gasoline for small airplanes, it have a minimun oct rating of 105, because you need at least 100 oct gasoline fuel.

 

Yours pushed 210? wow, that's pretty freaken high. the RPM was around 2000-2500, and also sometimes when its idling too. He did tell me, he also told me to ask others what they did to fix the detonation. I'll probably look into the colder plugs too.

I want to just run on pump gas, i just want it to be a nice strong daily driver. I'll probaby consider looking into replacing the head gasket, it's just a pain cause i JUST put the head back on last week. should I probably chip my ecu and do all the stuff you guys mention above too if i do replace the gasket?


This is what i get for not researching hard enough. I knew i would get higher compression but i didn't think i was going to get THAT MUCH.

 

Have you looked at the calculators. Check your cam timing, it shouldnt b detonating at such a low rpm he probably doesnt know wth he's talking about. You should get a tune...yes, not a base map, an actual dyno tune. Do you have a wide band? You should. 210 isnt very high, my buddys b20 did 220 stock and once we put a vtec head on it, it was pushing 250. Most of my b16s would hover around 215. Get a lambda meter and some way to control fuel. Have you read ur plugs? how r they looking?

 

215hp out of a b16 wtf? what kinda dyno are you running on? a b16 with all boltons only gets like 190hp lol on a b20z with a b16 head would net near 200 maybe 210

 

He was referring to PSI resulting from a compression test...

 

yep

 

So i have added two bottles of octane booster to my gas so this way i can go to the gas station for some premium. And i retard my ignition timing all the way and made an appointment to get it dyno tune. Now i need to get a good chipped ecu. Know what and maybe even where i can get one? Can the guys at the dyno do it for me? And do i absolutely need it?
Now if that is still giving me a noise then ill probably switch head gasket or maybe even run with two.

 

Ask your tuner what program he prefers to use...chrome, neptune, hondata, etc...it's important to have what he needs to make the car run how you want it to run...

Just don't let him try to rip you off lol...if he says you need an aem ems to tune an NA sohc you should probably look for a new tuner...

 

Replacing the head gasket with one (D15 conventional gasket) should be enough for using 91 otc gasoline for now. You build that engine to expect a increased hp, so don`t use two head gasket. Also a 10.5:1 CR is perfect for a tune engine and pump gas.

If you look for high performace pistons for a natural aspirate engine for street use like the JE pistons, they recommend the 10.5:1 C:R. and the best thing is that you can put a performance cam later on.

With two head gaskets C.R. will be only around 9.75:1, that may be perfect for your Mom, but not for you.

The b16 or b20 can run more C.R because the original cams are much hotter than the D16Z6.

 

So I cancel my appointment for the dyno tune (turns out the place i want to get it down is actually 2 and half hours away!) So i've been calling around and asking. i think I have my mind set on a place and is going to get my ecu chipped and tune with crome. But i have a injen short ram coming so waiting on that.

Meanwhile, I've been wondering how long i can get my engine to last after i get my car tuned. 12.1 cr on 92 octane? Possible for daily driving? I guess i really don't want to take off my cylinder head AGAIN. this will be like my 3rd time. granted i'll probably be super fast this time. it's just the car is at my school right now and I can't stay after for too long.

any sort of input would help. Thanks!

 

Depends; believe or not, here you live! If you live at sea level and a very dry place it´s worst. But if you live for example at 3000 ft and your city has a high huminity year around is not that bad.. there is a web side to calculate this things that are used by some amateur car racing.

A 11:1 CR at 3000 ft in terms of spark knock is like having a 10.5:1 CR. at sea level, but anyway a lot of guys temporary solve the same problem you have by running a rich fuel mixture ( 12.4-12.6 in the wide band meter, stock is around 14.7 ), + retard timing and It may work fine using 91-92 oct gasoline.

But to run a very rich mixture you probably need a ecu that can be program, not a chipped ecu. Chipped ecu have a map for running with higher octane fuel and they normally have more timing ( advance ) and you need to retard yours.

A CHEAP FIX! LESS THAN $1 READ THIS: If you know someone that study electronics, you can cheat the ecu to let it think you are runing a leaner mixture by using a resistance in the voltage wire coming from the Ox sensor. But he needs to determine the correct resistance. The ox sensor produce and fluctuate from 0.01 to 1 volt. They normally fluctuate in a average around 0.450volts ( 14.7). If the Ecu gets a reading below this, it is going to increase or richens the mixture. If you reduce the average voltage with a resistance you get a rich mixture and the ECU think the mix is around 14.7.

Two years ago when I was racing in the stock amateur class in which we have to used the stock Ecu with the stock Map we use these trick, but at that time I had a Old E-30 325 BMW (1989), not my present Honda with the
D16z6 engine.