Hello, As a last ditch effort im asking for help after searching on google and working on my car for hours trying to figure this out..

Ok it seems like it started about a year ago

1. My running lights do work but my brake lights do not work.. Tried replacing the brake light switch with no luck.
2. My speedo is very erratic when driving, sometimes it sits at 0 and sometimes it at 120, and bouncing all in between. Figured since its erratic instead of dead all together that its most likely not the VSS

Read somewhere that it could be the recall problem with the wiring harness underneath the IM(have not checked this personally yet since my jack died), read also that it could be a grounding problem so I went out today and cleaned the ground wire, battery terminals, and tried grounding to a different spot on the shock tower, and checked the voltage out the battery and its 12.5v coming out so that rules out the alternator. Still

 

Did you check the brake light fuse under the hood?

Any CEL codes? Is fuse 15 under the dash blown?

 

Dont know what codes its throwing, CEL has been on for a while >.< o2 sensors are bad.
Checked all fuses a long time ago and double checked today and they are good. Are there any other grounds I can check?

 

Pull the codes and post them.

Key in ON(II) ---> Check voltage at both top test tab in installed fuse 15. Click on Test Fuses and Fuse 15 TSB links in my signature.

 

Yea that honda pdf is what I was saying I havent checked yet. Do you want me to have the car cranked and use a volt meter to test the voltage thats going through fuse 15?

It will be a few days before I can get the car to autozone so that I can pull the codes.

 

Just turn the key to ON(II). The engine does not need to be running.

 

1 year w/o brake light? damn

 

Never did much night driving so it wasnt that big of a deal for meh

 

Alright, took the fuse out and tested the voltage on fuse 15. I got when I first put it on there idk if it was a glitch or something but I got 12v, yea cant be right. Then it was fluctuating between .2-.3v.

 

Test voltage with the fuse installed in the dash fuse box and the key in ON(II). Click Test Fuses link in my signature.

 

Got .2-.3v

 

On both top test tabs of fuse 15?

Do you get the same result for 7.5A fuse 19?

 

Yea got the same on both tabs of fuse 15.

And I got .1-.2v on fuse 19.

All voltage ratings seem to be fluctuating quite a bit. Is this normal?

 

You should read battery voltage on both tabs of both fuses. Given that you measure the same voltage for both fuses, I think you may be doing the measurements incorrectly. Describe your procedure.

 

Don't really understand how I could be doing it incorrectly. I turn the car ON(II) and take the positive lead with the volt meter and touch each test tab of the fuse. Then I try again for consistency.

 

Touch the positive meter probe to one of the fuse test tabs and the negative probe to body ground (clean non-painted metal frame under dash).

 

12.3v consistently on both tabs of 15 and 19. Excuse my ignorance.

 

Very good. Fuse 15 is clearly fine.

Pull the codes when you have a chance.

 

Going to leave early for work so I can go by the bank, and autozone.

 

This test tells you the battery is fine not the alternator. To test the alternator, measure voltage across the two battery terminals with the engine idling. The voltage should be around 14.5V and should not drop very much when the high beams are turned on.

 

Well I figured since I drive and start the car up pretty frequently my battery voltage would be low, plus had the alternator tested at O'reily a few months ago. Will do this test though.

Took her by autozone and the guy said there were 2 codes, P135 is on I think he said was related with the o2 sensor. The other he couldnt remember but it was a misfire on cylinder 4. Diddnt have a clue that there was ever a misfire on any of the cylinders. What could be the cause of this? Also no other trouble codes were found.

 

Remove the 7.5A Back Up fuse under the hood for a few minutes and then reinstall. This will clear codes from the ECU. Then drive the car to see whether the CEL turns on and stays on, or blinks. If so, pull the codes again. You can do this at home by jumping the service connector. You are doing this because repeated codes are the only ones you want to troubleshoot.

 

The CEL is going to come back on within seconds, does it every time. Even when the guy deleted the P0135 code it came back on in a matter of seconds when I cranked the car up.

 

I trust you, but it's best to verify. What about the cyl 4 misfire code?

If both codes repeat:

P0135:
Unplug the primary O2 sensor. Measure resistance across the heater element terminals (black wires) of the O2 sensor. It should read 10-40 Ohms.

P0304 or P0300/P1300:
Check the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

 

It probably needs the wires, and cap replaced. The o2 sensor I know for fact is bad. Anyone know of a good one I can replace it with?