Bump if viewed please!! i'm stoked about this build!!!

Blew up now i'm doing a complete build!!!

anyways....

Here we go guys, wisdom help and parts are needed!! and greatly appriciated!

HOW IT HAPPENED:

SO on my way home from OC maryland 2 weeks ago i noticed my car had a distinct miss... assuming my ancient plug wire were finnally failing i stopped and opened the hood

i let it idle and confirmed that i had spark

only a few things could lead to a no fire issue

after a compression test i deemed it to be such.. <50lbs compared to the others running 198lbs

2 hours later i had the motor out head off and valve out

it had "burnt" a valve... how idk that is what i am trying to prevent!!!

looks like a pie cut from the back but a halvf moon from the front..












buddie mikey had had the same exact valve go bad two years before the same exact way ... in this same car...






keep tuned in for the results!!!






SPECS ON REBUILD:

car -2000 B18c1 Gsr




B4 she came out


ORIGINAL GO FAST BITS:

sk2 IM

AEM shortram

crappy dc headder

AEM tru time cam gears

Ngk wires

B&M Fpr



NEW REBUILD BITS AN PIECES:

so far i have a few parts on the shelf ready to go !!!

type R 81.5mm full floating pistons cut for ls width rods

Eagle forged ls rods (i know theyre crap but this is a budget build!!!)

full gasket set for b18c

Crower stage 3 #403 NA cams (want stage 2)

crower dual valvespring and Chromoly retainers

Fererra std. size flat faced valves

supertech valveguides

STUFF I NEED FROM THE STORE:

bearings

belts

hoses

Wpump

Opump

beer




STUFF I NEED FROM OTHER MEMBERS:

What i need lmk if you have is
LS crank (not cut or micropolished) factory or forged lmk
rc injectors around 340
catch can


ANSWERS I NEED:

?HOW AND WHAT TO DELETE FOR DELETING THE CHARCOAL CANISTER!!! - AND SHOULD I??








OK heres a pic of pistons in comparison,


seems cleaner and free of debris.... maybe from running fuel thru it w/o ignition... idk

motor only has 115k miles but did use some oil...

heres the rest of the valves...

 

That's what happens when your motor has a lot of miles on it and the valve guides/seals start leaking. Just look at your pictures and you'll see all the carbon buildup around the valves. After a while it builds up on top of the valve and prevents it from sealing which causes it to overheat and "burn". They often shatter a small pie piece out of the valve like that.

 

hmmm intresting.... but it was only 1 clynder and check out the piston.... its clean...

(pics added)

 

No pics of Pistons spotted.....

 

hold those horses!! jk jk i'm not too speedy with this pic posting haha

 

Those valves (especially exhaust) are a mess. Lots of oil leaking around those guides/seals.

 

yea seems like they were especially bad on #1 clynder... same thing happened 2 years ago the same way but wasnt fixed right... thanks for the help!!!


so yea what about my other concerns with the brake lines and what about spring locators???... any ideas???

thanks!!!!

 

NEW GOODS!!!





ALSO NEED IDEAS AN REFERENCE FOR abs BRAKE DELETE

 

yesterday i got a few things done....

keeping the fuse box where it belongs but tucking most of the wires and deleting the abs setup... (running brake lines low...)

 

LOOk what i did to fund my more of my project today,.... sad to see her go but somone offered so its gone!!!....






I also welded some of the unnessasary holes shut in the passenger side and rad support of the engine bay that i didn't need...

heres behind the passenger side headlight where the abs module was...
the nasty looking fluid is a little bit of brake fluid and some water to prevent fire!!! haha




heres the rad support!! not sure how much more i'm filling....

 

bump for ideas on carcoal canister and some emmisions delete information...

 

do you still have that orange 10 place plug that goes to the ABS pump?

 

remove it.. ??

Change over to a OBDI ecu and just cut the plugs or cover them.. the canister isn't needed.. and it will leave you some run for a setup if you want to run a catch can setup..

There's really not alot, take your wiring harness and just clean it up, make sure its all covered and looks nice..

what exactly are you asking?

 

yea i have it...




And i'm asking what lines need to go where after i remove the emissions stuff b/c i'll have open vac lines... maybe a link to a "how to" thread

and why do ppl say it makes them fail emmisions?? what causes this?

 

bump, i am about to start building my 01 gsr.. same misfire symptoms, dont know if its a valve, but i plan on new pistons, and valvetrain. ugh.

 

u should keep the charcoal canister, releases blow by, you can replace it with a catch can that keeps lquid from circulating into the i.m.

 

Charcoal canister filters gasoline fumes from venting to the atmosphere it has nothing to do with blow by or the pcv system.

 

We talkin bout the can on the back of the block?

 

That's part of the stock pcv system. The charcoal canister is the huge black tank under the battery tray on OBDII cars.

 

what would it take for you to put it in the mail to my house?

 

The one with the vaccum lines? Isn't that one obd0 and obd1 also?

 

right that big bish i wanna delete.. now will this cause issues with getting the car to pass emissions? and what hoses will i have to delete?? don't some go to the IMani??..

i want it out but if it will cause emission problems i wanna know haw to put er back in b4 the test...

 

Bump for the "do i really need the charcoal canister for emissions questions??...

 

do you have visual emission inspection ? what state ?

 

Pensylvania... i'm not concerned about the visual just the plug in part my neibor does my inspection but a loacal shop sniffs it... i'm assuming if it just purges the presurized fuel tank vapors into my manifold i don't need it??...

If so i cap the lines? and what do i do with the "valve" that mounts on to the back of my intake mani??... i'm assuming cap it and delete the wires and all the hoses??