Well there are a couple NIB kits for disc breaks in the back and they say you can use your drum hub. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...item563c6309ac That's one of them.... But if I buy this am I still going to need a 40/40 Valve???

 

with that kit it look like you will still need to buy rotors, calipers, and ebrake cables, after you pay for all that it would probably be cheaper to buy integra trailing arm, and to answer your question, yes you should switch to 40/40 valve, but you dont have to, if you dont and when cornering really hard you could have one of the back tires lock up

 

Damn! I don't want a tire locking up! Alright well if you don't mind can you locate what I would need for the rear conversion on ebay and post a link for me? I already found a 40/40 I'm planning on buying.

 

go to a junk yard...find integra....un hook ebrake cables....un bolt calipers and brackets....autozone for new rotors and pads.

 

Just did a DA intrgra rear disc swap on my civic EF hatch. drop ins came complete e brake cables, Both trailing arms with calipers rotors. Had to press in new polyurethane mounts. Even sold the one pair i mistakenly bought for a civic, instead of integra. But it all bolted up, was a easy process. I was given a perportion valve i think it is 40/40. Problem is i think i may need a DA integra master Cylinder. Im not exactly sure. I did notice a further throw to the brake pedal. Kind of mushy. Didnt get braking power untill half way down just didnt feel the same. I tried to research the info. Wasnt sure i f i need a 15/16 integra mastercylinder.???

 

i did not swicht the valve on my old civic and never had this happen but i have heard it could. hear is a ebay link but i think its over priced i think about 100 is the going rate around where i live http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95...Q5fAccessories

 

to answwr some questions, when I did my rear disc swap with DC RTA's.I left the stock MC and booster and prop valve and I had a mushy pedal and my rear brakes would lock up(not enough fluid getting to the rear brakes).So after switching to just a 4040 prop valve, it got rid of the locked up brakes.But I still had a mushy pedal though, so after switching to the DA 15/16 MC and booster.My pedal became stiff.Bigger MC=more fluid to power the brakes

 

Ok BRAYE So your saying to get the 15/16 Integra DA master cylinder. I dont know about a booster? i thought i could just pop in a bigger master. I looked into this already. JUST didnt get a strait response.

I did take a corner and i noticed rear wheel cherp. Which was some lock up during corner. This is all new and recent. I noticed.

Thanks Oh and to add i purchased my complete rear drop ins for 60 bucks. Like i said i had to burn out the old inserts and press in new. I think the new RED polys costed me 30. So i have 100 into it and i see them on ebay for 200 300. 299. 399. I had them sitting for months never got to them untill recently. and my cars down.

 

ok the only MC you can bolt up to your stock booster is a 91 civic EX.The DA one won't bolt up correctly to your stock booster,that's the reason why you gotta use the DA booster as well.the MC flanges are at different angles.

 

Yeah I guess I'll call up my local junk yard and see if they have what I want. So any DA Integra rear break set up will fit on my car and I should try to get the master cylinder & booster too?

 

here you go https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/rear-disk-brake-conversion-w-pics-1916212/ it will answer all your questions

 

Well I know how to do the job its rather simple but I'm just trying to make sure I don't buy the wrong things. So I guess I'll try and locate and DA rear disc, booster and master got it unless a CRX set up comes up.

 

yeah and in that thread it tells you what MC and brake booster and prop valves you can use depending on your set up.just read through the posts.

 

Lol Is anyone in the Chicagoland are that has one they want to get rid of??