Well i picked up a set of stage 2 skunk2 cams and need to know what all i have to buy to install them. Such as springs and retainers and all that.

 

if its the tuner series, throw them bitches in and roll. if its the pro series ( by you stating they are stage 2 i assume they are ) any competent person would highly suggest getting a set of dual valve springs at the minimum. skunk2 offers a very nice set for a decent price. you may want to consider getting a good tune after they're installed. they will make a noticeable difference but nothing like the difference they will make with a good tune behind em.

 

i would suggest selling them and getting a set of oem gsr or itr cams, take from me, i bought the exact same cams, and they are on craigslist.com for sale. they wont tune out unless ur running a huge displacemnt such as a b18 block or if you have massive bottom end work, the cams are made for higher power band and unlesss you are redlining them things wont show much gain. i am running a b16a3 with full skunk2 valve train, springs and retainers with b16a block and it made my car run worse. i was at 137whp n/a and i got maybe .9 hp from putting the cams in. the b16a3 doesnt have the ability to rev high enough to see the gains unless you have upgraded the rods, rod bolts, studs, pitons etc. just saying.

 

You'll also be needing alot more compression, without it those cams are pretty useless

 

This isnt the 1st thread ive seen over the years of people over-camming their engine.. you will be amazed how a stage 1 or ITR cams will bring new life into an engine.(as stated above)

 

true^

 

yes, i made this exact mistake, i put those exact cams on a b16a3 with stock displacement and actually lost hp, simply cuz that engine isnt built for high enough rpms, now if you get you a b18 block (gsr or itr), raise the compression a bit and those cams are perfect for an all motor build. the b16 however is a good motor for a turbo. .48 trim/.50 trim = fast spool, good top end and the stock sleeves will hold about 10-12 psi on a dd as long as you arent hammering it at every light, lol. im running 9 psi on a 50 trim t3, spools a lil slow due to my exhaust being undersize and my exh mani but its putting 210 at the wheels on stock port, and a conservative tune. not too shabby from 121hp na.

 

and just wanted to add i was taught that if i could get my hands on a gsr or itr block, add arp studs, good eagle rods, bolts and some good pistons, i could put the b16 head with a p/p on it and the cams would be useful.

 

yeah depending on the compression. So youll buy all this new **** just for ur lil cams to make some power? wth u got it *** backwards dude, just boost it on a stock block and make 300hp before u do all this for maybe 200hp

 

yes i def agree with above. i have the b16a3 and i spent all this money as a noob in the honda world, intake,exhaust(muffler,headers) and seen maybe 5hp increase, then i got into the internals, pistons, cams, p/p, and thats when i began seeing the power, but then i made the mistake of overcamming and under displacement. i shoved the huge s2 cams in and it was a noob mistake all over again. but then i replaced them with oem gsr cams and put a t3 .50 trim precision turbo on the stock block on 9 psi, and i gained almost 100hp on a conservative tune. so yes go boost, the stock block can handle low boost levels on a dd as long as you arent racing at every light, but hondoogle it! dont go cheapo on the turbo. good headers, wastegate, blow off valve etc, with the piping you will want good couplers with t-clamps and the piping should have a rolled beaded edge. i pieced my turbo kit together, i didnt buy a ebay kit, some of it was used and the rest was new, some exhaust shops will make you a decent pipe set cheaper than ordering you one after you consider shipping and waiting, you could just go to a local exhaust shop and just talk to them, find one with some "good ol boys" working there, ya know the guys who build derby cars, or have hot rods of their own, i like my exhaust guy, he is about 60 years old, and has forgotten about more hot rods than i have had, so he is good with it. dont go to a chain exhaust/repair shop as they typically wont do it due to state laws and regulations. if y got any questions just hit me with a message ill help you out.

 

well i guess it wont hurt to sell them. Got them from a friend that owed me like $100 and he had sold his old b16 honda. If i go with GSR or ITR cams will i need valvetrain upgrades?

 

no the gsr/itr cams are stock cams, you will not need to upgrade your valvetrain if using either set of these cams

 

You will need to run dual valve springs on your exhaust valves if running itr. You can use the b16 intake springs on the exhaust

 

oops, i knew u didnt have 2 upgrade on ctrs thought itrs would b the same

 

arnt ctrs more aggressive than itrs? i have a pair of stage 1 i might be willing to trade if its tuner cams...

 

yeah ctr's r a lil bit bigger than itr's

 

eh your not going to lose HP unless your tune is ****. And 8500RPM (if you upgraded valvetrain 8500 isn't anywhere far from reality infact you could go higher) is high enough. And the bigger displacement won't make them make tons more power. And 1.8L to 1.6L isnt a big difference at all so I'm not sure what your talking about there either. And B16 blocks rev higher than GSR blocks because B16's they have short strokes and were made to rev high. A
Also turbo has nothing to do with PSI, it has to do with the power you are making and the size of your turbo. 10-12PSI on a TD04 is completely different from 10-12PSI on a 50 Trim t3/t4, etc. And B16's aren't exactly ideal motors for turbo because they have high compression out of the factory, so you cant take them as far before having to up the octane to prevent detonation.

@OP if you just want some mild power gains out of simple drop in cams then get some ITR or CTR cams. They are the best bang for the buck. But dont expect a ton of power out of it.

 

Dude any honda motor has a decent cr, its not the limiting factor on a b16 and definitly shouldnt hold you back from boosting it. People push 300 all the time on stock blocks, and iv seen plenty of stock k20s (11:1 cr) makeing 400. Rods and pistons r ur limiting factor on a b16, they r fantastic motors to boost even (especially, **** y would u wast money n doing anything else when u could put together a great kit for 2 grand and make 300hp) if its completely stock.

and b18's rev just as high

 

I'm not saying that you can't boost them. I am saying that they are somewhat limited on what they can make on pump gas because of their higher compression.

 

no they r limited to 300 hp cause of the cast pistons and rods not because of pump gas

 

Well actually you are wrong about that. They come with steel rods from the factory, and the pistons are not the issue. People have made well over 300HP on stock B16's. The issue with them is their compression ratio. its just simply not ideal for boost. So while you can make 300HP its about the limit of what you can make on pump gas on that motor (although I have seen people make more).

 

so y r u saying its not ideal, when u just said 300 is about the limit on pump gas (even though thats not what u were saying earilier). Dude the rods are cast and b16s are great to turbo....period Even with lower compression (i understand the relationship between cr and octane), 300 would still b the "safe" limit due to cast pistons and rods. I know a lot of guys that run 9.8 cr forged pistons when they build 500hp+ b series. You placing to much emphises on the cr, its really not that big of a deal just like the b18c lower rod/stroke ratio, people still rev the **** outta those motors

 

according to this engine manual i found (ill try to find it again) the rods are forged aluminum.

 

They are steel man.



.

 

sorry i meant steel i cant believe i sad aluminum haha