itbs vs skunk2 IM & s2 70mm
ok so im trying to debate whether i should put itbs on my car, it has a skunk2 pro intake manifold on it now, with a skunk2 70mm throttle body, which would be better for my setup and make more power,the car is just a toy, any input is appriciated, thanks
freshly built gsr
skunk2 pro2 cams
supertech valvetrain
82mm bore
12:1 compression
hytech header
acl race bearings
pretty much most important info, if you need more just message.
freshly built gsr
skunk2 pro2 cams
supertech valvetrain
82mm bore
12:1 compression
hytech header
acl race bearings
pretty much most important info, if you need more just message.
^Are you retarded or it is just that you havent felt what a good balance can do to a motor.
To the OP, tune your car before you start thinking about upgrading. See where your powerband is and how it is, from there you can decide if you wanna change things up to make more power.
Also ITB's like high reving motors so id say a balance for close to 10k is better, if you go that route
To the OP, tune your car before you start thinking about upgrading. See where your powerband is and how it is, from there you can decide if you wanna change things up to make more power.
Also ITB's like high reving motors so id say a balance for close to 10k is better, if you go that route[/QUOTE]
i didnt wanna dyno tune it until i knew which route i was going, dyno tuning is expensive here, and id rather do it once.
Also ITB's like high reving motors so id say a balance for close to 10k is better, if you go that route[/QUOTE]
i didnt wanna dyno tune it until i knew which route i was going, dyno tuning is expensive here, and id rather do it once.
Well Ill tell you right now, if your motor is built good and the street tune is good, you wont see a big gain with ITB's. Your powerband will move higher you will make some more HP up top and may sacrific some down low but the gain wont be huge.
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
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Well Ill tell you right now, if your motor is built good and the street tune is good, you wont see a big gain with ITB's. Your powerband will move higher you will make some more HP up top and may sacrific some down low but the gain wont be huge.
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
^Are you retarded or it is just that you havent felt what a good balance can do to a motor.
To the OP, tune your car before you start thinking about upgrading. See where your powerband is and how it is, from there you can decide if you wanna change things up to make more power.
Also ITB's like high reving motors so id say a balance for close to 10k is better, if you go that route
To the OP, tune your car before you start thinking about upgrading. See where your powerband is and how it is, from there you can decide if you wanna change things up to make more power.
Also ITB's like high reving motors so id say a balance for close to 10k is better, if you go that route
Well Ill tell you right now, if your motor is built good and the street tune is good, you wont see a big gain with ITB's. Your powerband will move higher you will make some more HP up top and may sacrific some down low but the gain wont be huge.
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
because you havent posted a single correct fact about itb's.
how about we use another word instead of "retard" cosidering you sound like "retards" when you use it in a sentence. as for goldpearleg6.... your an idiot and you should probably think before you go posting some stupid comment about how V8's only require a balanced motor
ok real simple itbs will help period on your car. if you want to just dd the car i would stay with the mainfold you currently have.
i know a few people that did put itbs and put a filter on them to prevent any crap getting into them and cause damage to the motor.
i know a few people that did put itbs and put a filter on them to prevent any crap getting into them and cause damage to the motor.
Well Ill tell you right now, if your motor is built good and the street tune is good, you wont see a big gain with ITB's. Your powerband will move higher you will make some more HP up top and may sacrific some down low but the gain wont be huge.
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
Do you DD the car or drag/track it?
lol you don't need to balance a bottom end? yeah because rods an pistons all come balanced out the box...lol some people.. balancing a bottom will make the build last and also allow for a little more revs. and hopefully adding a little more power. an that's to all 4 stroke engine's from what I've learned in school
I look through dyno's for fun when I see them, and what I have gathered over the years is no real need for that large of a TB on all motor setup. I am sticking with a stock 62mm ITR one for myself.
And also about the balancing bottom end part, I will quote my machinist. "the MFG's will advertise that their parts are exact weight and they check them as they get packaged etc, but that's BS. I always have to match rods and pistons as they are never perfect" So yes, it is needed, and I have seen him scale the stuff myself.
Personally, ITB's are unique, will you make a ton of power over your current setup, probably not, however I think it all depends upon your budget. Also dependent is headwork. I did not see that you had the head ported at all, so the gains you could get with a ported head vs non-ported with ITB's could also be minimal from what you expect. I don't often see guys without ported heads running ITB setups, and those that do, usually end up getting it done after anyways as they know they have a killer intake setup, but the head can't flow what it is capable of pulling in.
And also about the balancing bottom end part, I will quote my machinist. "the MFG's will advertise that their parts are exact weight and they check them as they get packaged etc, but that's BS. I always have to match rods and pistons as they are never perfect" So yes, it is needed, and I have seen him scale the stuff myself.
Personally, ITB's are unique, will you make a ton of power over your current setup, probably not, however I think it all depends upon your budget. Also dependent is headwork. I did not see that you had the head ported at all, so the gains you could get with a ported head vs non-ported with ITB's could also be minimal from what you expect. I don't often see guys without ported heads running ITB setups, and those that do, usually end up getting it done after anyways as they know they have a killer intake setup, but the head can't flow what it is capable of pulling in.
The question you have to ask yourself is how do you want your vehicle to perform. With a set of ITBs and a properly built engine you will have an amazing throttle response and when tuned they add power from mids to high RPM range. Depending on your cam(s) and head flow. You will have absolutely no problem filling the cylinders @ higher RPM's. However, that being said, an engine running ITBs does not have to be a 10,000 RPM monster.
The engine & ITB setup can be designed to run @ lower RPMs if you want. It all depends on where your cam(s) make power and head flow. That will determine what length you want your ITBs. Just because you put ITB's on your engine doesn't mean your cams will make power at 10,000 rpm...lol
There is also a tuning myth about how hard it is to tune ITBs and keep them tuned. With the engine management systems available out there for tuning today. It's not as hard as it used to be. Most of the chipped ECU OBD1 ROM editing software that is out there now have provisions for tuning ITBs. I may be a bit biased but I say go with the ITBs
The engine & ITB setup can be designed to run @ lower RPMs if you want. It all depends on where your cam(s) make power and head flow. That will determine what length you want your ITBs. Just because you put ITB's on your engine doesn't mean your cams will make power at 10,000 rpm...lol
There is also a tuning myth about how hard it is to tune ITBs and keep them tuned. With the engine management systems available out there for tuning today. It's not as hard as it used to be. Most of the chipped ECU OBD1 ROM editing software that is out there now have provisions for tuning ITBs. I may be a bit biased but I say go with the ITBs
i made 208/145 with itb's on a well built 1.8
could i have made more with a manifold? probably
would i have had peak torque before 3500 rpms and holding steady to 8500 readline? i highly doubt it.
could i have made more with a manifold? probably
would i have had peak torque before 3500 rpms and holding steady to 8500 readline? i highly doubt it.
Was this before, or after porting the head? I know of your build btw, that's why I ask. Curious (if after, what did you make before if it was dyno'd, and what else was changed or was that it?)
196/135 with stock head, anr header, 2.3 inch catback
203/140 ported head, anr header 2.3 inch exhaust
those were on the same dynapack
208/145 with rmf replica header and 3 inch catback on a dynodynamics
(also i must add that this tune was not optimised since i had a deposit on the car. rev limit was turned down to 8500 and just cleaned up the maps and didnt go searching for 5 more hp)

sold the car two weeks ago
203/140 ported head, anr header 2.3 inch exhaust
those were on the same dynapack
208/145 with rmf replica header and 3 inch catback on a dynodynamics
(also i must add that this tune was not optimised since i had a deposit on the car. rev limit was turned down to 8500 and just cleaned up the maps and didnt go searching for 5 more hp)

sold the car two weeks ago
Just to clarify what I think "goldpearleg6" was trying to say, Honda motors are very well balanced from the factory, unlike many domestic V8's were (moreso before than now). If you look at this build, it's all stock except for pistons and in that sense, probably better balanced than most any new factory v8 domestic from years ago, would be. If you change out a crank or go aftermarket rods and pistons, balancing should be considered for longevity. The reality is that most people blow their engines on here because of really poor tuning before balancing issues ever kill them. People focus so much on 1 or 2 things here when spewing advice to others and fail to look at the big picture. Balancing is something to be considered depending on what kind of engine build is being done, and its intended use. Telling people to balance their engine everytime it's built may be a little short sighted.
196/135 with stock head, anr header, 2.3 inch catback
203/140 ported head, anr header 2.3 inch exhaust
those were on the same dynapack
208/145 with rmf replica header and 3 inch catback on a dynodynamics
(also i must add that this tune was not optimised since i had a deposit on the car. rev limit was turned down to 8500 and just cleaned up the maps and didnt go searching for 5 more
sold the car two weeks ago
203/140 ported head, anr header 2.3 inch exhaust
those were on the same dynapack
208/145 with rmf replica header and 3 inch catback on a dynodynamics
(also i must add that this tune was not optimised since i had a deposit on the car. rev limit was turned down to 8500 and just cleaned up the maps and didnt go searching for 5 more
sold the car two weeks ago
Wow good #s even if that was for a conservative tune. Should have kept, had to be a fun car to drive, but I am sure the next project if you are picking up another car should be a nice buildup as well.
i had 85mm bore pnp head bc5 cams 12.5:1 compression, ran skunk2 pro intake. then went to twm itb's. then tried out a hand made en.dyn built for my setup. take a guess what made the most power. and starts every morning no need for retuning when the weather changes. you wanna go fast get a custom bisimoto header, 3" exhaust, and a en.dyn intake manifold with a 70mm tb. perfect flowing in and out


