Hey guys, hoping you can help me out here. I started up my 95 civic this morning with no issues and got a few miles down the road before it died on me at a stop light. I had stalled out and went to start the car back up and it refused to do anything.

When i turn the key all the lights come on at first and then only the check engine light goes off. When I try to turn her over i get no cranking sounds, and I can't hear the starter. The lights do not dim like a dead battery even though the light is on.

I have not tried to jump it yet, any ideas?

 

try jumping it.... check all your fuses

any check engine lights?

 

Nope no check engine lights unfortunately

 

Is your fuel gauge accurate or semi-accurate? I had my car die on the highway and the needle read about 1/8 of a tank.

 

I sure hope so, its at half a tank right now and i've had it down to E and still running in the past, car tends to use a lot of gas though, i can only drive for around for about 4 hours before i have to fill up, mainly just trips back and forth to work. Heck now that I saw that it doesn't sound so bad.

 

do you hear the fuel pump prime when u turn the key on?

 

I dont think so, it was kind of noisy so I may have missed it. Lets say it didnt prime what should I do. I will be trying everything tonight once i get off work.

 

Easiest way to tell is have someone turn the car to the "on" position while you stand with your ear at the fuel door. That or either close the door and turn off anything electrical (gps, cd player, radar, etc) and listen to hear the fuel running from the tank to the filter.

 

The starter does not crank the engine, right? The battery may be dead, so have it tested or at least try a jump start. Have you tried push starting the engine?

 

Yeah starter doesn't try at all, battery and alternator are both about a month old. I didn't think of trying a rolling start, to pull that off i just put it in second and try cranking while rolling down a hill of pushing right?

 

You got automatic trans? If so, and it stalled at a stop light.

Is your theromstat working? Fan? Car running a bit hot? The computer can shut the car down at a stop, if it's running too hot.

 

 

Sounds good definitely didn't think about that one. Ill check it out tonight guys, thanks for all the help!

 

could be bad grounds if the starter is not working. clean ur grounds up to the motor. one ont he transmission and the one on the valve cover(if its stock) of course

 

Ok tried jumping: no good, checked fuses: all good under hood and under dash, checked battery and alternator: good, checked for fuel pump sounds: nothing that i can hear.

Also it appears that in addition to the battary light the SRS and oil light are also on, the SRS light is a normal issue on my car when its running but not the oil pressure one.

Where do we go from here? Would a bad fuel pump cause the car to not even attempt to crank?

 

Check the G3 transmission ground as apexi mentioned. Make sure it is clean and tight.

 

Checked G3, removed it, cleaned it, and tried again with no luck. Also rechecked fuses and it looks like the 7.5A backup fuse under the hood was blown so i replaced it tried again with no luck and rechecked to make sure that it had not blown again. Also checked the oil due to the light, its thin looking but there's plenty of it.

 

Am not mechanically inclined, but something similar did happen to my father, driving a 92 Si ... just died on the road while turning a corner. Turned out to be the distributor that finally gave out. However, this does NOT explain why you cannot engage the starter. The oil and electrics light should be ON when you turn to IG(II), so that sounds like normal operation.

 

I thought the G3 ground might be bad because that would prevent both cranking of the starter and priming of the fuel pump.

Are you sure the fuel pump does not prime? Remove the gas cap and put your ear to the fill hole while a buddy turns the key to ON(II). Do you hear the humming/buzzing of the fuel pump for 2 seconds? If not, clean and tighten the G101 ground on the thermostat housing.

For the no-crank problem, check the two wires connected to the starter. They should be clean and tight. Then check the safety starter switch at the top of the clutch pedal and the rubber stopper it presses on.

 

RonJ i checked the fuel pump myself this time and I can hear it prime, I think we are are looking at that rubber washer I found a piece of rubber on my floorboard it had a cone end and the other side looked like it was flat and round but it was in about four pieces it was a shade of blue.

I couldn't really look at where the washer was but i was able to get a finger to that switch and when i depressed the clutch I couldn't feel it move.

Where can I pick up one of these guys (if locally is there a part number?), what is the best to get to that part to change it?

Thanks for all the help so far guys, this community is really great.

 

You can get the rubber stopper at the Honda dealer. Online is not a good option because you'll pay way too much for shipping and handling charges.

There are also jury rigged fixes that some members may mention.

 

Thanks I'll let you guys know if it works tomorrow.

 

did you check the plug on the starter?

 

here are the Honda OEM part#s for the clutch pedal switches
35710-SE3-A01 Genuine Honda SWITCH ASSY., CLUTCH (INHIBITER) $32.66 (clutch pedal switch B in the pic below)
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-SE3-A01.html


36760-SE0-003 Genuine Honda SWITCH ASSY., CLUTCH (TEC) $20.47 (clutch pedal switch A in the pic below)
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-SE0-003.html

Genuine Honda PAD, PEDAL STOPPER $1.56 (this is the stopper for BOTH clutch switches (red arrow in pic))
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...5-SA5-000.html

 

Same thing happened to my Sol , after 2 months and 4 mechanics (luckily I have friends) , the final verdict new ECU , off Ebay it was $115 , cars runs better than it ever has since I purchased it.

Don't take it to a dealership, they'll throw parts at it until they find the problem , the local Honda dealership here wanted to start with new distributor (not just the cap) at $400!! Yikes