First off my apologies if I missed anything but I did an extensive search and came up blank.
Here goes; 1998 CR-V travelling at 70mph when it downshifted automatically on an incline (cruise control)and blew the timing belt, There was no unusual mechanical noise at this time, just the expected drop in power. I know that this engine is an interferance but the posts I have been reading have mentioned excellent compression readings after a simple belt replacement. Is this just pure luck ? I would have thought not but I figured I would ask the more informed Honda folks just what the truth is regarding this matter.
Thanks in advance for your wisdom and sorry if this an old question that has been answered before.
All the best,

Chris.

 

You can set up each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, lock the crank into position. I use my old compression gauge hose after removing the schrader valve from the end, hook up an air hose to the gauge end quick disconnect. Blow air into the cylinder at TDC and listen at the open throttle body, exhaust pipe and oil filler cap (removed) for air leaks. It there is air escaping I make damn sure the cam is not pressing down on the valve and then I declare a bent valve or broken piston or rings based on where the air leak is at.

If no real leak is noticed, I set it up in time, slip a new belt on with proper tension, put the crank pulley back on to keep the belt from flying off, start up the engine, give it some throttle and make sure it runs and accellerates good then pull the new belt, replace all the parts you would do for a good timing belt job and call it good. You could do a compression test prior to starting if you like.

Some folks do get lucky and some dont, good luck.

 

I appreciate the response Duane but couldn't I just relieve the camshafts from the cylinder head to allow the valves to seat and run a leakdown test from there ? Why would you need to physically replace the belt ? If the valves are in no danger what's the point of going through the timing sequence to ascertain correct actuation ?

Regards,

Chris.

 

When you loosen the camshaft caps, you run the risk of having an alignment problem when you tighten it back down, just rotate the cams by the camgear bolt heads to the heel of the cams on each cylinder. This will also show you if you have a siezed cam due to lack of oil lubrication, this may have been the issue with your broken timing belt in the first place. If you have a true leak down tester then I am with you on a quicker test and saving time but if a backyarder only has certain items like I mentioned then I do not trust my ear alone to show me a small leak.

A brand new valve job will leak until the engine is started and the new seats are beat into the valves, yes the leak is minor and the seating is quick on a nice new sharp edge. It sounds like you have some experience but a lot of good people here dont. Remember, you used a pretty good name on the subject of your post so it will be seen by some in the future if they search the archives, now we have given them a few options on how to get to the bottom of an interferance engine problem.

On to your timing belt question, I for one, like to put the belt on minimally so it cant fall off and start the engine and accel to see if there may be a timing issue before I start putting it back together. Please also remember that setting up a timing belt by the timing marks in not always correct due to other possible problems that we didnt think about, such as, cam alignment pins being sheared, crank pulley keys or the pulley keyway being sheared or worn out. Some folks even put the wrong cam gear back onto the wrong cam or a crank pulley from another (wrong) engine or an improper aftermarket part in any location. I could go on and on, sorry for ranting, but I do respect your rebuttal.

 

Thanks again Duane for the timely and informative post

Chris.