Got a head scratcher here.

I own a 1989 Civic Base hatch. Has the D15b1 motor, 4-speed manual and is entirely stock.

I bought the car from a good friend after it had sat for around a year. I did a timing belt and full tune up on it. Started it up afterwards and it fired right up. Drove it around and it seemed to have a serious lack of power but I just attributed it to it having the B1 setup and around 70HP.. lol

Anyway I took it down to the shop I work at to verify that it would pass emissions before I took it in for them. The thing is an absolute dog because it is running so rich. Hooked it up to the 4 gas analyzer and HC is up around 2000PPM at idle and CO is around 9%. Ridiculous. I do a power balance test to find very weak spark on all cylinders. Pull the distributor cap to find the main post on the secondary circuit of the coil completely destroyed. So I replace the coil. Power seems up a bit but its still running VERY rich. So rich in fact that the exhaust at the tailpipe isn't even hot from being so wet inside...

The O2 sensor is new so I backprobe it at the connector and it reads a constant 1.06 volts. Basically saying "oh God make it stop im drowning!!!" So we know its working. Fuel pressure is where it outta be with and without the pressure regulator plugged into vacuum. No hole in the regulator diaphram. If the pressure tester is left on the system after you shut the motor off the system holds pressure so I know the injectors aren't mechanically stuck open.

ECT resistance is where it should be when fully warmed up at about 250 Ohms. MAP sensor checks out fine.

So I end up backprobing the main injector with the lab scope and injector pulse width at idle is about 2.5ms when it should be down around 1.25. So something is telling the injector to stay on way longer than it should even with the O2 telling it to pull as much fuel as possible. At this point I am stuck now going to the ECU itself and backprobing each pin and consulting a pinout chart as to what each pin is and what it should be putting out or recieving trying to find perhaps a bad wire, ground or if everything checks out a bad ECU. I dunno.

I am quite frustrated. Anyone have any suggestions as to what else to check out or perhaps even had this issue and resolved it somehow? Thanks

 

No ideas huh?

 

what type of plugs are you using?

 

have you place tour timing belt properly and dint move that cam shaft at all?

 

As far as plugs I am just running your basic generic NGK copper cores.

The timing belt is correctly installed. There is a key on the cam that goes on the sprocket so I know the sprocket is installed on the cam correctly and the timing marks are lined up. Its one of the first things I checked. Timing is fine. Ignition timing is fine as well.

 

for plugs try up grading them to a better plug... copper cores are not really that great... try moving to an iruidum plug and that might give you a better burn.... also check your spark in the ignitions system.. is your coil pack giving you enough discharge? go to a msd balster2 coil pack.

 

aslo try a new ecu...

 

Everything about the secondary ignition system is new. New spark plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, and the coil. The coil even includes some of the primary system. I know the ignition is fine. Its getting very strong spark across all cylinders and am not worried about that. The fact that something is telling it to dump so much fuel in while the O2 sensor is saying to pull as much fuel as possible is what is troubling. I am going to go backprobe the ECU soon and see if the O2 input is even getting there. If it is, and is reading the same as at the O2, I will put a new ECU in it.