engine harrness fab
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: stixs,ct
engine harrness fab
hey guys wondering what u think about my start of engine harness tuck?
i already extended my driverside shock harness to center , so my wire placement seems fine....any pointers...? going to computer store to get loom as we speak...
i already extended my driverside shock harness to center , so my wire placement seems fine....any pointers...? going to computer store to get loom as we speak...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 7
From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: engine harrness fab
#1 - don't continue. Put it back to stock - you and your sanity will thank me later. Only people with complete showcars have told me it's worth it. For a driver or race car, you're just begging for electrical gremlins.
#2 - If you continue with it... use good solder/flux/heatshrink. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol to remove the boiled flux residue, as that can cause issues if left on the wires.
#3 - use high-grade wire, same or slightly heavier gauge, preferably with a same or higher strand count and good flexable pvc insulator.
#4 - mark everything while you're doing it, and quadruple-check it before you wrap it up. Definately do a continuity check on everything.
#5 - use good electrical tape & split-loom where aplicable. Use brush-on electical tape goo for 3-way connections you can't fully insulate with shrink wrap. DO NOT use scotch-locks/t-locks. Use Honda connectors from a parts car if you need to add them.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 784
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From: stixs,ct
Re: engine harrness fab
#1 - don't continue. Put it back to stock - you and your sanity will thank me later. Only people with complete showcars have told me it's worth it. For a driver or race car, you're just begging for electrical gremlins.
#2 - If you continue with it... use good solder/flux/heatshrink. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol to remove the boiled flux residue, as that can cause issues if left on the wires.
#3 - use high-grade wire, same or slightly heavier gauge, preferably with a same or higher strand count and good flexable pvc insulator.
#4 - mark everything while you're doing it, and quadruple-check it before you wrap it up. Definately do a continuity check on everything.
#5 - use good electrical tape & split-loom where aplicable. Use brush-on electical tape goo for 3-way connections you can't fully insulate with shrink wrap. DO NOT use scotch-locks/t-locks. Use Honda connectors from a parts car if you need to add them.
#2 - If you continue with it... use good solder/flux/heatshrink. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol to remove the boiled flux residue, as that can cause issues if left on the wires.
#3 - use high-grade wire, same or slightly heavier gauge, preferably with a same or higher strand count and good flexable pvc insulator.
#4 - mark everything while you're doing it, and quadruple-check it before you wrap it up. Definately do a continuity check on everything.
#5 - use good electrical tape & split-loom where aplicable. Use brush-on electical tape goo for 3-way connections you can't fully insulate with shrink wrap. DO NOT use scotch-locks/t-locks. Use Honda connectors from a parts car if you need to add them.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Re: engine harrness fab
If you have to shorten/lengthen wires....keep away from the plug as much as you can. Only solder where the wire will be straight and hopefully where it won't move around.
When you solder a wire the ends of your joint can become weak....if it moves around enough, it'll be only a matter of time before it works itself apart.
Also I am not a fan of loom. I like the braided wire covers better, I've used the braided cover that splits down the middle.
When you solder a wire the ends of your joint can become weak....if it moves around enough, it'll be only a matter of time before it works itself apart.
Also I am not a fan of loom. I like the braided wire covers better, I've used the braided cover that splits down the middle.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Ne, USA
Re: engine harrness fab
#1 - don't continue. Put it back to stock - you and your sanity will thank me later. Only people with complete showcars have told me it's worth it. For a driver or race car, you're just begging for electrical gremlins.
#2 - If you continue with it... use good solder/flux/heatshrink. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol to remove the boiled flux residue, as that can cause issues if left on the wires.
#3 - use high-grade wire, same or slightly heavier gauge, preferably with a same or higher strand count and good flexable pvc insulator.
#4 - mark everything while you're doing it, and quadruple-check it before you wrap it up. Definately do a continuity check on everything.
#5 - use good electrical tape & split-loom where aplicable. Use brush-on electical tape goo for 3-way connections you can't fully insulate with shrink wrap. DO NOT use scotch-locks/t-locks. Use Honda connectors from a parts car if you need to add them.
#2 - If you continue with it... use good solder/flux/heatshrink. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol to remove the boiled flux residue, as that can cause issues if left on the wires.
#3 - use high-grade wire, same or slightly heavier gauge, preferably with a same or higher strand count and good flexable pvc insulator.
#4 - mark everything while you're doing it, and quadruple-check it before you wrap it up. Definately do a continuity check on everything.
#5 - use good electrical tape & split-loom where aplicable. Use brush-on electical tape goo for 3-way connections you can't fully insulate with shrink wrap. DO NOT use scotch-locks/t-locks. Use Honda connectors from a parts car if you need to add them.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 2
From: Brandon, FL, US
Re: engine harrness fab
It is a pain in the ***. MY first one I had a short somewhere and it kept blowing the ECU fuse but i knew it couldn't be my harness, dash came out, traced all the underdash wiring...it was a mess. Put a stock harness back in and everything worked beautiful.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 109
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From: Ormond beach, FL, USA
Re: engine harrness fab
Tech Flex F6
TXL Cross link Wire
Cross-linked polyolefin heat shrink
Quality (not cold) soldered connections
Lot of patience and attention to detail
And a lable system/diagram of each connection, wire color, and thier orientation ( comes back to attention to detail)
TXL Cross link Wire
Cross-linked polyolefin heat shrink
Quality (not cold) soldered connections
Lot of patience and attention to detail
And a lable system/diagram of each connection, wire color, and thier orientation ( comes back to attention to detail)
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: engine harrness fab
If you're gonna do it, do it right. Dont half *** it with computer store bullshit that was never designed for automotive duty.
I have a fully tucked and shortened harness on my s13 sr20 car. bitch to do, but it was done right and worked flawlessly.
I have a fully tucked and shortened harness on my s13 sr20 car. bitch to do, but it was done right and worked flawlessly.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 20,006
Likes: 3
From: Tampa, FL
Re: engine harrness fab
Tough crowd...speaking with experience. If it is not done correctly, you will be hating life later. There is a reason that the Mil-stuff is so expensive....partially because the components are so expensive....partially because of the time and attention to detail so that you don't have to f-with it later.
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