Just curious to see if anybody has tried to shoe horn a 4" exhaust into the EF chassis following the same lines as factory?

I'm planning to build a new aluminum exhaust and still need to measure and test fit, but i thought i would see if there's anyone that has given it a shot?

 

I'm sure it's possible. Might need to get creative, and car will not be able to be 1" off the ground.
Just make sure to get various bend radii, it can make a world of difference.
If you really think it will be tight and bad clearance, aluminum is not a good choice really.
It will dent and scratch much easier. I've had to remove the factory shielding, take another route, etc.

 

i think creativity will be key, the car is setup for its slick/skinnies combo so it does sit a bit higher then most lowered cars.

i've already moved most of the heat shielding for the previous exhaust i made (mild 3") the only part i am really worried about is over the rear lower control arm.

 

i've made a few 3" for that chassis and some 4" for other cars and dont see any problems with getting a 4" to fit under one. it would be way easier if it doesn't have a rear sway bar because you wouldn't have to go as high above the control arm.

 

whats a good amount of space to leave above the control arm? i'm running the skunk2 drag coilovers movement is pretty minimal as is.

 

I made my own 3" for a sedan, and it fit over a 22mm rear sway w/o ever rattling or hitting anything. I used a 24" resonator in the stock possition too, which was ~5" outter diameter. If you just use a muffler in the rear and a stock rear sway (or none), you should be able to fit a 4" in the stock possition.

Split the difference, but hug the frame a little. Your frame won't move, the pipe will barely move, but your LCA moves quite a bit. The pipe will also move down from it's idle possition moreso than upwards.

I also recommend poly hangers, or the super-thick diesel exhaust hangers. I use the ones from autozone and they hold 5x the weight before sagging.

 

hugging the frame rail is key for sure and so is good hangers and metal dowell that fits tight into them. use painters tape to mark your hub centerline (while suspension is compressed or move the tape up an inch and a half from where the hub normally sits) on the rear quarter. when you have the car lifted remove the rear strut and jack up the suspension to your marking point and that is you're clearance. i'll duct tape a paint stir stick where the control arm goes and put the strut back on. the closer you get to the frame rail the less the control arm will come up also.

 

some good tips in here for sure, i'll update on the finished product.

thanks