Hello, I did a swap back in the winter time Engine and everything has been working for 6 months correctly. Saturday night my car completely shut down and wouldnt start. My Relay under dash was making a noise when trying to crank.

The Relay was replace next morning Sunday. DID NOT WORK. CLICKED and made Diffrent noise than first relay i thought was wrong.

Purchased New fuel pump. mechanic called me and asked me if i was sure i wanted to put it in and i was like WHY? He said its like HALF the size of the original one. I said i didnt see the original one thats why your getting the work, I could not do a fuel pump with my car broke down on the side of the road.

So he puts it in and tryed the relay and called said still nothing.

Now he says the pump works. But it only gets 6 Volts.
I did notice a Melted but not blown fuse in the under the dash section of fuese panel. It was one single fuse on the Right side of the Fuse assembly. Was melted like it had seen some heat but not blown.

Mechanic did not performe any trouble shooting or anything besided install fuel pump and listen for noise. When he called me and told me that its done, but still Nothing i was like WTF, Did you test any lines? see if the thing is pumping up to the engine bay?


I am lost. I took it to a mechanic and thought it was be a simple fix for them. They act like they dont know.

I performed all the work engine overhaul, swap, maintnence and everything i can do my self on my car. I refuse really any "mechanic" working on really ANYTHING of mine unless i have know for while. Wouldnt believe some of the **** i have seen,,, But anyway im not going there.

Just looking for any help on this matter. again car lights up, wont start. Fuel pump only getting 6volt apperantly. Help please?

 

What do we think about the igniter unit inside the distributor. I was getting compression, spark becasue i blasted with ether and it attempted to fire. I did try multiple times to start, nothing.

Need to know any imput

 

DO we reccomend using a HP walbro pump. 225lph? If th

 

sound like it might be your ignition where the key goes in mine went out just all of a sudden and once its out its out it will turn over maybe just maybe fire for a split second and die every time sometimes not even that they are around 50 bucks at autozone for a new one.

 

ignition switch its 65 bucks at autozone

 

I purchased a main relay? ---> did not work

What is a the ignition relay? where is this located? I have a Igniter moduel inside the distrib. but i am not taking it all apart. I have a cheap brand new dist. off ebY i got for 100 and i did not like the quality, Plus it threw the same ****ing code 9 so the CYP sensor or ecu is shot. Like i said i have a new dist. that is low quality. Rebuilt the original dist. And did not replace the moduel. White box with connectors inside. I highly Doubt this is the issue. Car cranks over. Will run off starting fluid. Isnt getting gas or pumping correctly. Cany figure it out Becasue i am at work and not at the car so i dont know what he sees or whatever..

Mechanic says again only getting 6v to the Pump he is telling me it is a wire issue or a short.

I told him to Test all wires, that are related. He tells me he did not look at it today and will look at it tomorrow.

 

Try another ECU if you happen to have one. P28 , anything Obd1, " if that is what the car is" and just try it. If it pops over........ the Pump circuit in your old ECU is dead. " keep in mind it will throw a check engine light cause of minor BS. nothing to worry about at all. this is just a test " . If the ECU attempt fails the plz make sure the motor has a good clean ground. " IT DOSE THAT EXACT THING WITH NO GROUND ! ! ! " . . . And if that is not it , you have a half dead link somewhere. Get a volt meter and set to ohms and start testing circuits. " hope you can read a wiring diag. " My money is on a ground somewhere but i really think that you have a ECU problem. Also ! . if you have a volt meter. Check your battery volts and reference that to other 12v locations under the dash and fuse blocks , ignition Ext Ext. ...... Also .... Honda Main Relays are **** and are located in a terrible spot. I EXTREMELY Recommend that you take it out and PULL the relay out of its cover " Very Easy " and drill some holes in its case cover. Reason being is this relay get quite HOT and are quite Expensive. Well this is my 2cents for what has been explained. Let me know what you find or can come up with.
Epichondagod
1990 Sir D16z6 . CA Reffed ..+ mods = 14.8 ET1/4

 

Also , what dose the check engine light do when you turn the ignition on ? Dose it do its normal on for 3 sec then off ? Dose it throw a light for any reason ? Ext Ext ?

 

You definately have a wiring problem with your pump, If this guy isnt competent enough with electrical work then take it somewhere else. Stop looking anywhere else until you fix this problem 6v at the pump means that 6v is going somewhere else either a short to ground or short to another circuit. Also if you have a blown fuse do NOT just replace it there is a reason why the fuse blew (to much amperage in the circuit) you need to find the problem with that circuit. (not something someone can really walk you through on a computer, you need to have knowledge of how to work a DMM)

 

I have had no luck.

Got back to the post and didnt realise the responses since. Mechanic still didnt do anything to my car. I never had a GOOD chance to look my car over becasue it broke down late the night before the 4th of july. Had to be towed out next morning and i had it towed to the "local shop" who had just inspected the car 2 days prior.

They decided to take on all other work that came in and put my car on the back burner which really irritated me. Its now 2 weeks and im still with out car. Going to arrange tow tomorrow after work or early saturday morning.

I do not know what exactly is up only the relay was clicking the new one i bought.
I do not know what is going on under the hood becasue i could not see when mechanic is holding car almost hostage. If i could see and look my self i may be able to figure out. Just a bummer that the mechanic did nothing. He did do a pump, Install a new one i purchased Thinking old one was bad but now i think about it could be bad battery. The battery is old. not sure car does crank. I really need to get it back and diagnose the car my self and put up another post. The mechanic got the car becasue i could not get car up in the air on road to do a pump. I thought this was the issue

 

Ok so i got my car yesterday- Went to PAY up-

Gouged me for 220- Car still wasnt fixed banked on getting key and pickng up today saturday.
Mesed with car for 10 min. Found tyhat battery was dead. Told mechanic he brings out charger, I looked under hood fuse panel. ECU fuse was blown.


Made them mechanics feel real good that a 23yr old can fix **** better than them. Yea it was the ECU fuse blown. Looked that one over. Its just ashame they didnt do **** on the car and charged me 220 for what install a new pump and to tow the car 1/2 mile. I totaled everything up with the relay, Pump, And labor. $421.00.

That was part of my Tokicko Illumnia suspension i was going to get, Or the Buddyclub cam kit.

On a better note i fixed my car my self and it works.

 

The ECU shorted out this morning. The fuse inside engine bay did not go this time. I do not know what to do. Just discouraged. Please help. P30 ECU is expensive. Dont want to get another and it pop like this one just did this morning, Started car, Somethng was up shut it off and there was alot of smoke and some funny *** smell that i can still smell.

pulled ecu out and opened up and it is fried i wanted to get a pic but my camera is in my xcar and i would have to go get it. I need help big time.

 

got my cam. This is the Pic of ecu. Trying to get a idea on what may have caused this.

 

Maybe the ECU was originally bad and blew the fuse first.

But I'm thinking it is what everybody else said. I'd check the wiring from the ecu harness to the engine harness. Theres a point where the engine harness fully connects to the ecu harness before the firewall I think. You can test a lot of stuff there with a multimeter.

I believe it is a short to ground/circuit as well. Tugging some wires usually works temporarily, but since the ECU is down you can inspect the wires. Taking your time you could get it done in two days of here and there inspection.

 

Happen to me twice, replace the ignition switch, and for sure you need to re-wire your swap.

Where the burn on your ECU, you can see in the picture below, showing the ignition pin.
And the picture of the ignition switch.

 

How do we know it is excactly the ignition


I dont want to get another and have it blow. A person named MONO did the wiring i am wating to hear from him.

Still kinda stumped. Im going to have to get the car back home AGAIN at some point.

 

It gonna be the ignition, coz of this picture clearly show where the source of burn, and the clicking noise you've said.

 

Well why did it Pop the ECU this time and did not blow the Fuse under the hood. I have a feeling it is some where around the ecu . IDK i just just got the car back to my house i had a neibor tow it with a chain. I need to look over the wiring tomorrow and inspect the under the passanger side dash wiring. Not sure what i will come up with. Havent heard really any word from any one i put out a message to except on here. I have many responses and difrent oppnions.
How would i go about diagnoseing more

Where do i get a good ignition switch preferably Honda quality?

 

Still no idea. Checked as much as i could out. No indications of wire burn

 

Ok so i have two wires that seem to be a issue. They are a White with a green stripe and a silver dot. The wires are located on a plug that is in the UNDER THE HOOD fuse box. it is adjacent to the ECU fuse. It got dark and i can not see where it leads too, And it started raining. I have a short and need to find what the wires controll

White with green stripe and silver dot. On passanger side goes into fire wall, Cant identify from there

 

Seems like i have a short in a white/green stripe wire. I dont know what it is or where it goes but there are 2 i located, One under steering wheel area goes to a break pedal plug, And the other goes to the ECU. Not getting a short any where else except in fuse box. I cant figure this out here are pics of connector and wires in under hood fues box

 

what is CTS indicated on the ECU. I am starting to thgink it is ignition linked im tracing wires....


This white with green strpe is HOT AT all times according to manual. its linked to ecu pin B1 and C13. B1 is ignition. C13 is CTS? Please help. Only one pin rings. How do we determine which.??

 

hey brother i can not help you with your problem but i have a q... i have a b16a obd1 with a p28 ecu and it has all of the obd1 mounting brackets i need the obdo engine mount brackets(or whatever there called) to place it in my ef most times people get the odb0 one thats jdm which is strait bolt on but i cannot find those brackets anywere just thought id ask to see were u got them

 

Still trying to figure it out., Got my ecu from HRT. JUST GOT IT.

I located my diagrams and its indicating that the area blown is the Ign. Power and Ign Ground.

Really dont know what to do from here. Not sure whats bad but its obvious something is wronnng. SOmething grounded out. Did the Ignition switch do this?

The white/green wire is a Alternator Control. That came up in my testing as a bad link. Im not sure what the heck is up i really could use some second oppnions or Imput

 

Here is some wire diags. This is what your Obd1 Pinout conversion " PAR ECU CONNECTIONS " Should be. Your ECU should not go when you go to turn it on. The Jumper harness are trash. Take it and throw it the *** away and go to the junk yard and get an Obd1 ECU plugs " With as much wire as you can clip back .. roughly 1 foot " and wire at a time solder in your new plugs. From there your only running 6 wires. 4 for the o2 and 2 for the Vtec. Its stupid simple if you have some patience. Stock plugs are by far better. Test and retest. Stock wiring = a running honda. And on a second note, if you have an AFC/VAFC .. rip it out and throw it out ur car window at 100mph+. Or you may