LS Block with CTR pistons and LS rods?
has anybody used an LS block with CTR pistons (b16b) and LS rods? or is it just smart to use GsR rods or something else. im not going to use aftermarket rods/pistons. i also heard the LS rods need to be shotpeened and ARP's installed to compinsate for the higher revs. and yes i have an LS crank..
any help is appreciated
any help is appreciated
That's NOT a good idea, even with an LS head with 45cc chambers. this is easily over 13.0:1 compression, not ideal for a street engine. With a VTEC head of any kind it is even worse. You've got more issues to worry about than simply shotpeening and reconditioning rods with ARP.
i will use a b16 head and a fairly thick head gasket and my compression will be in the twelves. the only question i asked was what rods will i need and what mods will need to be made to fit my LS block with LS crank. i can even get GsR rods and pistons. will the GsR rods/ pistons need any modifications to fit on my LS crank?
No. You do not use GS-R Rods on an LS crank for that. There's no point in doing that part of the build. You can have as thick a headgasket as you want, but that will not solve your compression issue with an 8.63 dome sized piston. Trust me. I've already built a motor of similar specifications, and even if clayed was not able to work without series shaving of the pistons themselves. I've used a GS-R block with CRV Rods/Crank and pistons on a B16 head that was originally with supposedly 6.32 Dome piston. I tapped the spark plug even with standard and thicker head gaskets. I'm not saying this to ruin your fun, I'm telling you this to educate you on the process. THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA IN THE SLIGHTEST TO USE LS CRANK w/ CTR PISTONS. YOU WILL LOSE.
Here's the build I made. trust me, you always match the crank to the rods (LS Crank, to LS RODS)
Page 1 https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/
When you go through the reconditioning and shotpeen process, you want to give the machinist the ARP rod bolts at that time so that when he reconditions them and he installs them, he can use a stretch gauge and account for it. I also used ARP for the mains and headstuds, but when I had the rods reconditioned, I had the entire rotating assembly (rods, pistons, crank, flywheel, clutch) balanced for higher rpms. It was a good thing I did too, as I accidentally revved my frankenstein to over 9500 rpms without so much as a hitch because I over prepared.
Here's the build I made. trust me, you always match the crank to the rods (LS Crank, to LS RODS)
Page 1 https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/
When you go through the reconditioning and shotpeen process, you want to give the machinist the ARP rod bolts at that time so that when he reconditions them and he installs them, he can use a stretch gauge and account for it. I also used ARP for the mains and headstuds, but when I had the rods reconditioned, I had the entire rotating assembly (rods, pistons, crank, flywheel, clutch) balanced for higher rpms. It was a good thing I did too, as I accidentally revved my frankenstein to over 9500 rpms without so much as a hitch because I over prepared.
i really appreciate the advice. im not going against you just want to try something new... im assuming shotpeened LS rods and gsr pistons would e a better combination then??
I've had a build simular to this , mine was ls block , crank and rs machine ctr pistons with a simi built b16 head.NOT A GOOD DAILY!!!! makes great power and is a nice cheap all motor build and is streetable.....good luck with yours
CT pistons belong in one thing...a b16
they weigh a **** ton, they have horrible flame travel and are horribly prone to detonation, along with giving uselessly high compression for a street car.
when you go to get tuned, the tuner will have to pull so much timing out to get it to not ping even at idle you will kick yourself in the nuts for having 160whp ls/vtec, when you could easily have 200+ with a decent set of pistons.
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i have a boosted eg hatch and im not really into the "all motor" scene, but i have a spare LS block with the crank installed (81.5mm) and i want to make around 170 or more if i can with my block, GsR/ ITR pistons, LS rods, a ported head and a set of ITR cams with bolt ons
that's fine, using an ITR compression type piston can work. If you're 81.5mm, you can't use OEM anyway. Oversized is only 81.25. Time for RS Machine, or some other piston company.
What you originally proposed was "new" to quite a few people, until there were lots of problems. that's why you don't see it much anymore
What you originally proposed was "new" to quite a few people, until there were lots of problems. that's why you don't see it much anymore
not a good idea to put ctr pistons in a ls block. its not a daily driver. trust me, i had the same set up, it blew up. will work only on the track. those pistons are only for b16 block.
It will work, you will be running on high octane over 100 atleast to make it run right. My next door neighbor has a eg on high compression of 14.1 running on 112 octane. Your going to have an issue with gas like he does.
its not that your going against anyone, its just that its a retarded idea (to try something new", when the reason no one does it is because it doesnt work.
CT pistons belong in one thing...a b16
they weigh a **** ton, they have horrible flame travel and are horribly prone to detonation, along with giving uselessly high compression for a street car.
when you go to get tuned, the tuner will have to pull so much timing out to get it to not ping even at idle you will kick yourself in the nuts for having 160whp ls/vtec, when you could easily have 200+ with a decent set of pistons.
CT pistons belong in one thing...a b16
they weigh a **** ton, they have horrible flame travel and are horribly prone to detonation, along with giving uselessly high compression for a street car.
when you go to get tuned, the tuner will have to pull so much timing out to get it to not ping even at idle you will kick yourself in the nuts for having 160whp ls/vtec, when you could easily have 200+ with a decent set of pistons.
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