does any one have any pictures of a caged ef/eg/dc/what ever kind of car they wouldnt mind posting up? im needing to get an idea of how these are constructed, if i should run a 6 or 8 point cage, whats street/track legal, and what type of steel i should use/diameter. i have been told that i should run mild steel(since my car is no where near 9 seconds lol) and have it welded in instead of bolting it in. im also concerned about what the speed/voltage of the welder should be set at as well.

any info?

 

nhra rule book will help you alot.

 

As far as "track legal", grab the rule book from whatever sanction you plan on racing with. they will have a very detailed description of minimal requirements. keep in mind that they are different for every club.

As far as "road legal", not sure how legal it is, but i can tell you how bad of an idea it is. NEVER drive a caged car without a helmet. ever see when Gallagher smashes a watermelon with a sledge hammer?...imagine your head hitting a steel pipe after an impact...you get the idea. also, no matter what you read, cage padding is designed for helmet to pipe impact, not head to pipe impact. it is by no means a substitute for a helmet

 

well here is what i have come up with. im hoping to get into this class just when i start out after a tune:

11.99

By the time a car is capable of running between 11.00 and 11.99 seconds in the quarter-mile, safety requirements are especially important. Up until this point, factory seatbelts are acceptable, but in the 11-second-and-quicker time zone you need a quality safety harness. The minimum requirement is a 3-inch-wide, five-point harness meeting SFI spec 16.1. The 1995 National Hot Rod Association Rulebook outlines the proper way to mount the shoulder harness and belts.


An NHRA-legal rollbar is also required in the category. Recent rule changes have reconfigured what NHRA classifies as a rollbar. The classic four-point bar is no longer acceptable. The new standard is mild-steel tubing of at least .120-inch wall thickness (most chassis companies, like Art Morrison, use .134-inch wall tubing) that includes a forward-running side bar from the main hoop past the driver’s shoulder. This bar is only required on the driver’s side, but most systems include both sides for a six-point rollbar.

An SFI-approved scattershield is also necessary in this e.t. category. NHRA requires the scattershield to have an SFI aluminum-foil sticker. According to Red Roberts of McLeod Industries, older bellhousings can be certified by sending the scattershield and block plate to the original manufacturer. The company will inspect the housing and if it passes, it will receive an SFI 6-1 certification. Most SFI certifications are good for five years. Contact your manufacturer if you’re not sure.

The clutch and flywheel must also be SFI certified. The main consideration in this area is to avoid using a cast-iron flywheel. According to Roberts, sometime in the mid-’70s most of the new car companies began using nodular iron flywheels that are much safer. Most, if not all, current high-performance aluminum and steel flywheels are safe when used in conjunction with an approved scattershield, but the rules state that the pressure plate and flywheel need an SFI certification number. Roberts says the best plan is to record all your SFI numbers in a logbook. This makes it easier for the tech inspector and it shows the inspector that you understand the importance of the inspection process. This e.t. level also requires steel valve stems in all wheels, along with arm restraints for open-cockpit cars like roadsters.







so bacically, i would need a 6 point certified roll cage, but i may just go ahead and make one better than that. saftey 1st

links:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n...ets/index.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n.../photo_03.html

 

11.00 to 11.49 OR slower than 135mph:
you need at least a 5pt roll bar, snell helmet, 5pt harness and single layer jacket, and of course the little things like a kill switch, steel valve stems

10.99 or 135+mph:
10pt roll bar, snell helmet, and triple layer jacket and pants including neck collar and gloves and shoes, 5pt harness

on fwd cars, the parts do not need to be sfi certified because frankly they dont really care actually and the market isnt there, but common sense comes into play like dont mount your fpr on the firewall parallel to the bellhousing. on rwd cars, sfi is a big thing

 

ya i think i might just go ahead and get the 6 point cage.


how does one go about painting the cage inside a car?

 

Mask everything off if your painting it a different color than the car... start shooting.

I second Chawski's comments on driving a caged car on the street.
More meatheads get into the slightest fender benders and smack their nugget on the cage.
Thats enough to make you a veggy or end life as you know it.
Cage it if your tracking it only... If its a DD dont risk what brains you have upstairs because its cool to have one in your car.
You might want to look into a good bolt in, so you can pull it out when your done with your fun.

 

If you go for a bolt in, just make sure its legal.

I think youre going to come to realize that daily driving a track car is just uncomfortable as hell. you have to gut it for the cage, so its gonna be loud and just plain obnoxious. taking the cage out after every race is gonna get old after about the first time. youre gonna have to trailer wheels and tires with you to change before and after the weekend. the list goes on....youre gonna spend more time prepping the car for the race and then for the drive home than you will racing.

 

i want to stay as far away from bolt in kits as possible. have heard some pretty bad stories about them. one guy said his friends came loose and cracked his skull when he wrecked his car.

im now on the hunt for a decent shop thats has good pricing on welding/labor rates.

 

dont take it like i was bashing bolt ins, there definately are some good ones on the market. I know a lot of miata guys that use Harddog bars. Thankfully no one ive known has ever had the pleasure of testing its roll capability, but they seem quite sturdy and definately stiffen things up. theres nothing wrong with a bolt in if its legal for your class, I was just saying youre not gonna want to be taking it out and re-installing it every other weekend.

As far as it coming loose, thats kinda like a wheel coming loose and coming off...sure, ive seen a video of it once, but it doesnt happen often enough to make it a concern.

 

In an accident reardless of how its put in , welded or bolted. you will smack your head on it.
No caged cars unless your tracking it and wearing a helmet.
When you cage a car all the safety equipment must be there too to make the car safer.
Padding it wont help. The correct approved padding isnt going to help you because its designed to take a hit from a "helmeted" driver.
Harnesses must be installed too.