Battery Relocation in Sedan
Just a couple of quick questions, i know there is a picture thread of relocations for random cars, but i wanted to know specifically for the EF sedan.
I have an Ody slim battery, so it doesnt have to stand upright. Whoever has relocated, where are you running cables? I was thinking routing them in the same channel as the exhaust pipes but i dont want them to get wet.
I plan on putting the battery in the trunk, using 0-2g wires, and mounting some jump points somewhere.
Thanks
I have an Ody slim battery, so it doesnt have to stand upright. Whoever has relocated, where are you running cables? I was thinking routing them in the same channel as the exhaust pipes but i dont want them to get wet.
I plan on putting the battery in the trunk, using 0-2g wires, and mounting some jump points somewhere.
Thanks
I know you didn't ask for all this but I though it best to show how I did mine instead of trying to explain.
This it where the battery wire and the wire to the fuse box meet.

First, I had already moved my fuse box to inside to make room for the strut bar. Thats not important it's just so the pictures make more sense.

They come through where the AC piping use to come through. And theres my fuse box.

Running down the kick panel

This picture is beside the pass seat

Comes up an around/under the back seat

Coming out behind the back seat

My battery stays upright because of my ugly plywood board that I still need to carpet. You could always drill holes for a hold down and seal them with Ultra Grey or something like that.

I used 13ft of 4 gauge wire. If you do move the fuse box that wire can stay the same size just longer. The whole process took about an hour and a half.
This it where the battery wire and the wire to the fuse box meet.

First, I had already moved my fuse box to inside to make room for the strut bar. Thats not important it's just so the pictures make more sense.

They come through where the AC piping use to come through. And theres my fuse box.

Running down the kick panel

This picture is beside the pass seat

Comes up an around/under the back seat

Coming out behind the back seat

My battery stays upright because of my ugly plywood board that I still need to carpet. You could always drill holes for a hold down and seal them with Ultra Grey or something like that.

I used 13ft of 4 gauge wire. If you do move the fuse box that wire can stay the same size just longer. The whole process took about an hour and a half.
Alright well thanks.
I'll be doing this sometime in the near future. I plan on tucking my engine fuse panel, and all of the wiring. I'm not going to get all crazy and re-routing brake lines and all that ****.
Since i have a dry battery, i'll probably mount it on the side of the trunk, instad of on the floor of the trunk.
Do you know how to install jump points? I know the hardware is straight forward, but do i just simply run another +/- wire to the battery terminals and then to the jump points?
I'll be doing this sometime in the near future. I plan on tucking my engine fuse panel, and all of the wiring. I'm not going to get all crazy and re-routing brake lines and all that ****.
Since i have a dry battery, i'll probably mount it on the side of the trunk, instad of on the floor of the trunk.
Do you know how to install jump points? I know the hardware is straight forward, but do i just simply run another +/- wire to the battery terminals and then to the jump points?
I want to tuck all my wires in the engine bay but frankly I'm kinda lazy.
As for the jump points I've never done that but when I worked in shops every Sebring that came in with the battery mounted in the fender well(I hate them, d*mn them all) thats what Chrysler did. Just ran some wire from the positive terminal to the jump point. Just make sure the jump point has no way of grounding out. You only need the positive cause you can hook the neg. jumper cable to the frame somewhere.
As for the jump points I've never done that but when I worked in shops every Sebring that came in with the battery mounted in the fender well(I hate them, d*mn them all) thats what Chrysler did. Just ran some wire from the positive terminal to the jump point. Just make sure the jump point has no way of grounding out. You only need the positive cause you can hook the neg. jumper cable to the frame somewhere.
I want to tuck all my wires in the engine bay but frankly I'm kinda lazy.
As for the jump points I've never done that but when I worked in shops every Sebring that came in with the battery mounted in the fender well(I hate them, d*mn them all) thats what Chrysler did. Just ran some wire from the positive terminal to the jump point. Just make sure the jump point has no way of grounding out. You only need the positive cause you can hook the neg. jumper cable to the frame somewhere.
As for the jump points I've never done that but when I worked in shops every Sebring that came in with the battery mounted in the fender well(I hate them, d*mn them all) thats what Chrysler did. Just ran some wire from the positive terminal to the jump point. Just make sure the jump point has no way of grounding out. You only need the positive cause you can hook the neg. jumper cable to the frame somewhere.
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Probably wont be for a while, I still have to pull the motor, remove everything wiring related and paint the bay. Then i have to do some bondo and paint the car, then get either an a6 or z6 block, then i'll have everything put back together. haha.
I got lucky because my engine bay is cleaner than the outside of the car. Plus, the sensors on the firewall have already been removed and moved aside, making it easier for me.
i have the interior gutten right now, but i have everything i need except for the carpet. the head is y8 but running the a6 block/ecu...bad thing is that the block as 316k.
Got the car for $800, clean title.
i have the interior gutten right now, but i have everything i need except for the carpet. the head is y8 but running the a6 block/ecu...bad thing is that the block as 316k.
Got the car for $800, clean title.
I have an 88LX with some body damage, but full interior, DPFI, clean title, maintenence info all the way back to the original sales receipt for $12,500.
Got the car for $100, running.
Got the car for $100, running.
I already fixed that though, i just need to stop being lazy and put the front bumper back on. Its drivable, 5speed also.
This is my motivation for my sedan...my old sedan, haha.
This is my motivation for my sedan...my old sedan, haha.
this is from my old crx back in the states that i had take a look
http://hondacrx881.tripod.com/batteryintrunk.html
http://hondacrx881.tripod.com/batteryintrunk.html
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