Ok, I've had this problem for a little bit now and it's driving me insane. At idle there is no smoke at all. When revved into high rpm (around 3 or so grand) it smokes about as much as you see from a person smoking. And every now and then, when ever it feels it needs to really irritate me, while driving it starts just puffing like you would see a wood fire do.

I know it's gas smoke that is not in question.
It's like it's overloading itself just a little to where it runs and drives just fine but all the un-ignited gas builds up and back fires after being heated by the exhaust causing the mass amount it does every now and then.

What I have tried(caution some are pretty desperate attempts):
New plugs & wires
Reset timing
New fuel pressure regulator
New injectors
Checked TPS
Checked O2
Distributor and cap were upgraded to MSD 2 months ago
TA sensor is good

Thats all I can remember doing. A friend of mine is now suggesting a new fuel filter. I'm having trouble seeing how that would be it.

If anyone has come across this very bizarre situation, please feel free to post. It will be greatly appreciated.

 

I've had the same problem, what color is the smoke?

If it is actually fuel, replace your fuel pressure regulator, and then check the integrity of your fuel injector tips. If the material at the tip of the injector is broken off, and the needle itself it showing, replace that injector. (it will make sense when you look at them)

Also, do you smell fuel in the engine compartment? If so, replace the injector seals on the FUEL RAIL.

When you coast, like in 4th/5th gear, then pick up speed after a few seconds, does it smoke then?

 

The color is white and it smell drastically like fuel. I just replaced the pressure regulator(today actually) and the injectors (mostly cause the old ones were bad). There is no fuel smell any where but at the tail pipe. And to answer your last question-usually but it's the light smoke like just little wisps of smoke.

 

Well, then its possible you could have slightly worn down rings, allowing a minute bit of fuel to pass through, straight to the tail pipe.

Other than that, the FPR is usually the culprit.

 

Well d**n it. I think you may be right. I just remembered I did a compression test a while back and all cylinders except one were right at or 1 psi below minimum.

 

If it isnt that big of a deal, like you arent noticing a lot of fuel loss, i'de leave it alone.

Unless you have the time and another car.

 

It's not costing any gas really. It's just sooooo embarrassing when it decides to REALLY puff every now and then. I hate seeing kids in my neighborhood fanning their faces when I drive by sometimes. But it is my only car unless I want to play "who gets the car today" with my wife.

 

haha, i know what you mean. Thats why i got mine an EF sedan also! I have mine, she has hers, period.

 

Try "engine restore"

 

I hadn't thought of that. I've use "Engine Honey" before on another car that smoked like a fat Irishman and it stopped it.

 

But its only a temporary fix.

 

Yeah but hopefully I'll be starting this new job this week and I can afford to re-ring it.
Speaking of that. I was told some time ago when I was rebuilding the bottom end that with a high mileage engine it's not good to re-ring them cause of the wear on the cylinder walls. That I might as well just bore it out while I'm at it.

Any thoughts on that.

 

Or, go to a machine shop and have it re-honed, then just get some oversize RINGS.

 

no, just pull the head and oil pan, take out the pistons, hone the walls with a $15 thing with a drill, and clock the rings and put it back together.

Machine work is not worth it for a d15b2, might as well get another swap if you do machine work. rings are like $30 on ebay, they are Nippon I believe and work great. Add in cost of Headgasket and IM gasket and honing tool and piston ring installer and it'll be around $85

add in machine work and you might as well buy a d16a6, y7, y8,z6 swap for $150 - $250

 

Thats what I said. I said I have a hone and I plan on using it. But they were insistent on the wear probably being to great for honing to make much of a difference.

I am interested in where to find some over sized rings though. If I can find some I'll probably do what you suggested.

 

I need to do this as well..

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...vic&vi=1168376

Click on where it says "piston rings - premium", then a pop up, click "oversized".

 

I actually have a B18 swap not the pos d15. I already have the hone, ring compressor, and head gasket. I had planned on doing this before but got talked out of it.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate you help

 

The only things stopping me is that i dont know how big "oversized" actually is. And the price, like $40-50 per ring set.

For $200 i could get another block.

 

I was poking around on that link you posted and second on the list had these details

Sealed Power - Premium Piston Ring Set
Part Number: E515KC50MM
Line: SPO

* SOHC
* (1) 1.20mm Groove, (1) 1-1/2mm Groove, (1) 2.80mm Groove
* 1/2mm Oversize
* Quantity Per Vehicle: 1

Another said 1.00mm over sized
and another said 3/4 over sized
I don't know which one I'd need.

Your lucky they're quoting me $72 a set

 

Its cuz they're oversized, premium. The OEM type from kragen are around $50.
So 1/2mm oversized? still need a hone to make these things fit.

 

I got my hone for around $20 bucks at Autozone

 

How exactly does it hone the cylinders? I know they are supposed to be in a crosshatch pattern.

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_4727370_hone-cylinder.html

 

do u notice it smoke any ore than usual while decelerating? or is it all the time?(minus idle)