flowbench and piston coating in seattle area?
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
id like to find some local( driving distance) shops that have a flowbench to port the head.
and also a place that does piston coating( ceramic coating) anyone know of such a place here around seattle?
and also a place that does piston coating( ceramic coating) anyone know of such a place here around seattle?
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
anybud knowz?
my pistons gonna be here in a week or so. i want them coated before they are pressed on the rods.
my pistons gonna be here in a week or so. i want them coated before they are pressed on the rods.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
lol.
what about AD performance in redmond?
anyone dealt with them?
i found them thru google, not sure if they do piston coating or not anymore.
http://www.adperformance.com/index.p...age=contact_us
what about AD performance in redmond?
anyone dealt with them?
i found them thru google, not sure if they do piston coating or not anymore.
http://www.adperformance.com/index.p...age=contact_us
If not DG then try ASP as mentioned above. Not sure about the place OP mentioned though. Just call the mentioned shops and if they don't do piston coating, then I'm sure they could refer you to a place that does.
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If youre looking to bench your head that you did, and I mean this in a nice way, dont waste your money. Like I said in the other thread, I dont care what you do to the rest of the port, if its a stock VJ, if will flow like stock. I only know because I have done it. I have ground the **** out of stock ports, cut the guides out and all, and flow tested and it was the same +/- 1-2% all the way across the board, and thats an acceptable margin of error for testing. I blew open the throats all the way to the 45 deg seating angle to 90+% and still only saw 3-4% from .450-.550. Easy way to save about $100 is just to not do it.
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From: nothing is real unless it is observed
If all/most of the flow comes from the valve job (like i have herd many times) is there a point in porting at all?
If youre looking to bench your head that you did, and I mean this in a nice way, dont waste your money. Like I said in the other thread, I dont care what you do to the rest of the port, if its a stock VJ, if will flow like stock. I only know because I have done it. I have ground the **** out of stock ports, cut the guides out and all, and flow tested and it was the same +/- 1-2% all the way across the board, and thats an acceptable margin of error for testing. I blew open the throats all the way to the 45 deg seating angle to 90+% and still only saw 3-4% from .450-.550. Easy way to save about $100 is just to not do it.
The rest of the port can compliment a good valve job as well. I have cut a valve job before on a stock port, flowed it, then ported it, and flowed it again and picked up everywhere. Most street Honda's are ok with stock heads, because the port volume is already pretty generous. But put in a cam with 260 deg of duration, or an increase in displacement, and a good ported head almost becomes mandatory.
I did a head for D-Rob on here, that changed from a stock head to my port work, and he dropped a full point in compression I believe, from 12.5:1 to 11.5:1, so he could run pump gas, and he gained something like 23hp at peak, even with the full point loss of compression This was a big motor, 84x95, but it showed the effects of a good head on a large cubic inch engine.
Well, in the other thread you were discussing with another member on here how your removal of casting lines and general smoothing of the ports must help out. I'm just telling you the flowbench says different, but first hand validation is important to some.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
yea that gsr manifold was just a kill of free time i had, some dremel practice
to see how hard is it to actually do the work
i didnt expect any dramatic increase in flow. but surely cleaner ports cannot hurt right?
as long as i dont take off too much and change the port diameter and all the rest..
i didnt even go past the sand casting and only got rid of the obvious chunks of alluminum that were sticking out on the surface. and alligned the ports a lil better.
i probably didnt word it right, and made everyone think that i knew what i was doing...
i wont be using that IM tho. i found a good skunk2 pro IM for this and will not be touching that one untill i get money for the whole thing(valves, port port match head and manifold)
so with my specific setup:
81.5 pr3 pistons,gsr rods,crank
gsr head with sk2pro2,stock valves, supertech springs/ret,sk2 IM, 68mm omni power TB hytech ebay knockoff header 4-1.
would that be worth the time and money to port and valve job?
to see how hard is it to actually do the work i didnt expect any dramatic increase in flow. but surely cleaner ports cannot hurt right?
as long as i dont take off too much and change the port diameter and all the rest..
i didnt even go past the sand casting and only got rid of the obvious chunks of alluminum that were sticking out on the surface. and alligned the ports a lil better.
i probably didnt word it right, and made everyone think that i knew what i was doing...
i wont be using that IM tho. i found a good skunk2 pro IM for this and will not be touching that one untill i get money for the whole thing(valves, port port match head and manifold)
so with my specific setup:
81.5 pr3 pistons,gsr rods,crank
gsr head with sk2pro2,stock valves, supertech springs/ret,sk2 IM, 68mm omni power TB hytech ebay knockoff header 4-1.
would that be worth the time and money to port and valve job?
You wont hurt anything by minor work, smoothing out casting lines and the such, no. Its not til you really hog out the port that you can hurt low lift flow. Porting and a GOOD valve job is always worth the time and money, but I am biased.
If youre looking to bench your head that you did, and I mean this in a nice way, dont waste your money. Like I said in the other thread, I dont care what you do to the rest of the port, if its a stock VJ, if will flow like stock. I only know because I have done it. I have ground the **** out of stock ports, cut the guides out and all, and flow tested and it was the same +/- 1-2% all the way across the board, and thats an acceptable margin of error for testing. I blew open the throats all the way to the 45 deg seating angle to 90+% and still only saw 3-4% from .450-.550. Easy way to save about $100 is just to not do it.
also, DG machines is the only game in town. listen to the guys who have actually built 9 and 10 second civics.. they ONLY deal with DG.
as for piston coating send that **** out to cali wil or bisi the only ones i would use.
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
anyone knows whats the turnaround time with bisi?
cuz my block is waiting to be worked on and pistong gotta be pressed on the rods as well.
cuz my block is waiting to be worked on and pistong gotta be pressed on the rods as well.
LISTEN TO THIS GUY... he is the ****ing ****. and knows his **** well.
also, DG machines is the only game in town. listen to the guys who have actually built 9 and 10 second civics.. they ONLY deal with DG.
as for piston coating send that **** out to cali wil or bisi the only ones i would use.
also, DG machines is the only game in town. listen to the guys who have actually built 9 and 10 second civics.. they ONLY deal with DG.
as for piston coating send that **** out to cali wil or bisi the only ones i would use.
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