Rear Brake Lights ALWAYS On...dead battery
I'm fairly sure its a stuck brake sensor, anyone ever change this, how difficult? do I need to pull the lower dash or can I do it w/o? I've pulled the underhood fuse for now, yeah, I know, dangerous not having brake lights or a horn, but its better than the car being dead every time I go somewhere.
is there a way to clean this sensor until I get the replacement part? for now, I've been using "bicycle" signals (arm down) when stopping but I don't want to get a fix it ticket...
EDIT: I meant to mention, I can't shift out of park, I've been starting the car in neutral
is there a way to clean this sensor until I get the replacement part? for now, I've been using "bicycle" signals (arm down) when stopping but I don't want to get a fix it ticket...
EDIT: I meant to mention, I can't shift out of park, I've been starting the car in neutral
Not sure of the year. First there is a plastic "bumper" the switch makes contact with, make sure it is still there. Get's old and breaks, find strange plastic pieces on the floor mat?. Temp fix, nut and bolt of the right size. True fix, get a new "stop" from the dealer. Second, the switch is not that hard to change, again depending on year. Can get to it from under the dash, head down around the pedals looking up.
My edit: did the shifting prob start before or after pulling the fuse?
My edit: did the shifting prob start before or after pulling the fuse?
Not sure of the year. First there is a plastic "bumper" the switch makes contact with, make sure it is still there. Get's old and breaks, find strange plastic pieces on the floor mat?. Temp fix, nut and bolt of the right size. True fix, get a new "stop" from the dealer. Second, the switch is not that hard to change, again depending on year. Can get to it from under the dash, head down around the pedals looking up.
My edit: did the shifting prob start before or after pulling the fuse?
My edit: did the shifting prob start before or after pulling the fuse?
the shifting problem was after pulling the fuse meaning the lock was always engaged (I can shift just fine w/o putting in the brake with fuse in). it also sparked on me when I re-installed the fuse.
TAS has the brake sensor on clearance for $25, majestic was $40, local dealer is $75.
The shifting issue is because of the fuse.
Ok, 94-97 should be the same. Just looked at my 95 Auto/cruise. On the brake pedal there is a plastic "stop/button". Make sure it is still there. If you look under the dash along the pedal almost in line with the ster. column. Push the pedal in and make sure there is not a "hole" in the lever. Without that button there is nothing to close the switch. If it's still there then yes I would believe it is the switch. Might as well pull it and test it. Then if bad, replace.
Ok, 94-97 should be the same. Just looked at my 95 Auto/cruise. On the brake pedal there is a plastic "stop/button". Make sure it is still there. If you look under the dash along the pedal almost in line with the ster. column. Push the pedal in and make sure there is not a "hole" in the lever. Without that button there is nothing to close the switch. If it's still there then yes I would believe it is the switch. Might as well pull it and test it. Then if bad, replace.
this just happened to my brothers integra. ditto on the rubber stop. Just pick one up

#17
46505-SA5-000 017 001 PAD, PEDAL STOPPER $1.55

#17
46505-SA5-000 017 001 PAD, PEDAL STOPPER $1.55
I have this same problem with the car not shifting with the brake pedal pressed down. The brake lights did not work and I have to use something to push down the emergency shift button next to the shifter. Im not sure if i am calling it the wrong thing but its what you use if you need to shift the car without cranking it up. It turned out to be the brake pedal switch behind the brake pedal. Easy changed and it fixed the shifting issue and the brake lights. There is a way to check the switch with a voltmeter. I have to pull out my Haynes Manual. It really sounds like the switch is bad.
I went to autozone on the way and picked up a plastic screw+nut and put that into the hole until I got to the dealership...$3 later it was fixed. thanks
@rkrizzle, it wasn't that the lights weren't coming on (that would indicate a bad switch) it was that they were constantly on, meaning the peddle wasn't engaging the switch to turn it off.
Trending Topics
"ikeray"- Glad to know it worked out! Yea, I used the nut/bolt set up to hold me over more that once _had an 86-88-89 all go over the years...waiting on the 87 to go soon and it's a stick so the clutch has the same "bumper" as well, really only does the cruise control. Then there is the 95 and haven't even looked at the 07 yet.
"rkrizzle"- Your situation does sound more like the switch, old post so you might have fixed it already. Yes you can test then replace, which is always the best method. If not fixed then let us know where you are in the testing.
"rkrizzle"- Your situation does sound more like the switch, old post so you might have fixed it already. Yes you can test then replace, which is always the best method. If not fixed then let us know where you are in the testing.
true a switch is a switch but it could, i guess, be called a sensor if its sole purpose is to sense if the pedal is depressed or not... lol
anyways i think muffinman is onto something with the wobble-shaft being out of adjustment. i'm just glad it was only his Rear Brake Lights that were stuck on and not the front ones!!!
anyways i think muffinman is onto something with the wobble-shaft being out of adjustment. i'm just glad it was only his Rear Brake Lights that were stuck on and not the front ones!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
88crxhfb16
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
11
Jul 28, 2005 08:07 PM





