hey guys getting fed up with d series.. just did mini me swap.. not to impressed..... put a stop on funds for my d series, desided to go with a newer more powerfull engine... i hear the b20 is very strong, i also can get one very cheap online, i am on a tight budget so the least expensive one will be my choice...if vtec im going na , if non vtec im going forced induction...let me know your thoughts guys

 

Are you open to ls/vtec or b20/vtec? It requires a little more of a budget rather than a straigh Bxx motor.

Other than that, go b18c1(gsr), matched with LS tranny.

 

im sure i can do the ls vtec or b20 vtec..i did a mini me swap like nothing, and got plenty of time on my hands.. what would be price and power differences, for instance best choice or all motor or turbo

 

Ls, Gsr and the b16's are good for boost. (stock block)
b20's makes your daily enjoyable.

 

I'm not hating or trying to discurage but I wouldn't do a LS/V-TECH cause of the low rod/stroke ratios inherent in the non-vtec blocks. This low r/s ratio stresses the bottom end a bunch. If you'll notice, Honda reduced the stroke from the B18A/B to the B18C. Now if the B18C is supposed to be a more performance oriented motor why didn't they keep the displacement? For the better r/s ratio.

Another reason is that the non-vtec blocks don't come with some of the features that the VTEC blocks. These include oil squirters, block girdles (on the B18C's), and a very balanced bottom end.

The upside to this is that they have the potential to make a large amount of power. Its up to you. I am not going to say anymore because there are SO many threads on message boards all over the internet.

http://ef-honda.com/ben/EFswapguide.php

 

Stock VTEC DOHC would be your most reliable bet. Personally I'd find a strong B18C and call it a day.

 

Fact: b18b1 (LS) has more low end power than a b18c1 (GSR)
Fact: Mating a block with low end power, plus a head high reving power, with vtec = better all around driving.

 

There are a lot of differences between a mini me setup and an LS or b20/vtec. To sum it up, running a non vtec block with a vtec head is a little more complicated when it comes to the B-series.

Price will vary all day long, most reliable place would be to check hmotorsonline.com. You could get a b18b1 for pretty cheap. Then just do some searching on craigslist or the marketplace here for a gsr or b16a head.

 

I admitted these are facts. The main thing is will your block (the one not built for it) handle the high rpm and extra stress put on it. Theres a reason Honda built the vtec blocks the way they did.

 

B series connecting rods/pistons can handle (not sure of exact number) over 200hp.

So yes, any NA build any B series guy makes will barely push over 200hp anyway. (unless you have a typeR, some great cams, high comp pistons, and great IM/EM.)

 

Again, it's not the horse power in question. It's the high rpm. The B18a/b cranks are not as balanced. It's like trying to spin a hammer on top of a pencil.

standard B18 block redlines around 6 1/2 to 7 grand
Vtec kicks in around 6 or so grand and redlines more around 9 grand

Why would the standard B18 redline that low if it could handle much more.

Like I said I'm not trying to discourage, just think about what you may need before hand. No one wants a rod bearing to spin.

 

Dude, go to the turbo forums and look at the threads. there are a lot of people who dont swap over crank shafts while boosting D's and B's with stock internals.

D's and B's are rated much higher than what the actual numbers mention. Look it up, go by experience of others rather than black and white text.

 

Here

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/lst-ls-t-turbo-b18a-b18b-setups-1323059/

Dozens of people using stock internals, well over 200hp.

 

I know stock internals can handle around 10psi. I've been researching on boosting mine. And I do see what your saying about the compression ratios. All I'm saying is I personally would not feel comfortable running my B18 at that high of rpm when Honda didn't plan on them going that high. But to each their own.

 

 

Built B20Vtec. I love mine. Daily driven 12.5+:1 compression ratio. 240whp/165tq before cat and exhaust.

 

can you use a stock block and make power? yes. will it last? maybe, depends how you drive it. if your hitting 8k all day, i highly doubt it will last. i would build the block if you want it to last.

in cali O_O?!

 

Yes sir. I understand the consequences of my actions. That is why I putt putt it around every day, have a very quiet exhaust on it, and keep the car stock looking. Not slammed, no stickers, no tint. Just some meshies and a conservative drop. It's possible to.drive a modded car and not have to worry about every cop you see. I will enjoy my car and push it when I have money for track time, until then, I drive it like its a stock camry (pre recall models).

 

This is exactly what I meant.

 

You guys get hassled for tint?

 

It's California man. We get hassled over a lot. I've tried to minimize the reasons for them to **** with me.

 

WHAT'S YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH LS VTEC. IT SEEMS THAT YOU ARE LOST, JUST DON'T GIVE ADVISES IF YOU DON'T KNOW OR IF HAVEN'T EXPERIENCE IT.

THANKS

 

i've had two ef's with b16a engines. a crx and my current hatch. the transmision is what i love about them. the gearing is very close and awesome to drive! never had a b18 in a ef b4 but i know that is has more power so it should be more fun?

not sure if this helps but i didn't see anyone talk about the b16 and i wanted to rep.

also... you could do a poor mans type R w/ a gsr block and a b16 head... just my .02

 

The long stroke is what makes it punchier in the low RPM compared to the b18c*, obviously though, with a longer stroke there's a lot more mass spinning which is what's limits the engine to spin at a lower RPM. It's not rocket science, if you want a reliable high revving motor, reduce the rotating mass and shorten the stroke.

So asking an engine designed with a longer stroke to rev like its shorter stroked brethren is in some casing, asking too much.

 

used to run an LS with 10psi 215hp at the wheels with stock internals for about 2 years. never had an issue if you never take it past its redline. full boost kicks in at 4k rpms.. redline at 7 rpms.. shift at redline... (no short shifter) not slamming the gears.. and still stay in boost. it was fun.

now i have a b20 vtec 159hp at the wheels with stock internals and stock headers and intake. nothing like boosting though.. still fun.. my peak hp drops at 7500 rpms.. thats when i shift. but i also got my vtec set around 4500 rpm to keep a smooth curve on the dyno.. so i still stay in vtec range

these are my numbers. help with your choices. good luck with your swap. any swap u decided will be a fun one i promise.