91 ex with a6/y8 mini me swap.

My a6 block has over 300k on it, instead of changing pistons/rings, i decided to change over the entire block.

Just not sure which one to use. I've heard pros/cons regarding all the block i've listed to be used in a mini me.

I need some more thoughts on these block matched up with my y8. I know the y8 block would make sense, but i've heard that the z6 is a better block.

Im confused.

EDIT: this is NOT an "opinion" thread, i need to know which is a better block to be mated with a y8, or a mini me swap in general.

 

zc sohc or d16a6 short block

 

I only need the block. As long as it has the crank and pistons, im good to go.

 

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...808714307.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...806080137.html

 

thanks man, I e-mailed the guy for the part out.

The other dude wants too much, i dont need the head.

 

I've "heard" that the A6 has a slight advantage with respect to it's rotating assembly being the strongest but I'd have no way to prove that (or disprove that for that matter). In any case, since all the blocks you've listed are of the same displacement I'd personally say it doesn't matter which block you use because the blocks are mechanically the same. As long as it's straight and within spec, you'll be good to go.

 

Isn't there something about y8 oil pumps needing porting or shimming or something to perform as needed for some high performace builds? I would say the a6 if you can find one.

 

I know that an oil jet has to be removed from the a6 block in order for the vtec to work...i've never really looked into exactly what that means.

 

The oil jets are on all engines (at least D/B/F/H...couldn't comment on K as I've never gone through one of those yet). The difference in location is the VTEC motors have them in the head, non VTEC motors have them in the block. Think about it and you'll understand why you need to remove it when doing a VTEC conversion.

 

I've never personally done it, so im not familiar what it looks like, or how to actually remove it.

I'll have my motor pulled sometime in the next couple of weeks, so i could check this stuff out.

 

it's right at the top of the block when you take off the head towards the intake manifold side. It's dead center. You can pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

 

is it a cylindrical shaped, 1/4 diameter piece of metal?

 

a6 has a steel girddle as the rest dont. the a6 and z6 both have 2 oil ports for the crank as the y7 and 78's only have one making them more prone to rod bearing failure

 

 

Thanks, just remove the entire piece and thats it?

 

just the small cylinder circle at the top, take a screw and screw it in the hole and then pull it out.

 

^ whats the purpose in doing so? not trying to thread jack but i'm sure the OP would like to learn more about his as well as i do lol

 

I believe it allows more oil to get to the head during vtec?

 

oh .. idk? lol i dont plan on doing a mini me swap its either stock,Z6, or B series LOL

 

Im thinking about just waiting until i can find a clean z6 or y8 block.

 

correct. I have had a d15b vtec, mini-mi d15b7 block with a d15b vtec head and a zc vtec. Powerwise, they performed in that same order respectively.

 

z6 block is better than y8/y7 blocks because like said before it has 2 oil ports instead of 1 in the y8 for each bearing

 

Alright, well cool. Now for a couple other questions:

-I am running all obd0, even with an obd2 head. Can i re-use all of my obd0 a6 block sensors when i install the z6 block? or do i have to use the z6/obd1 sensors and convert my harness?

-Do i have to do anything to my y8 head when i install the z6 block? as far as the oil ports go?

Oh, I plan on getting an obd1 p28 with an obd1 ecu at some point.

 

So, you are using an odb2 head on an odb0 block right now? If so, I'm guessing that you are still in non-vtec mode since you are asking about a mini-mi project. You can ghetto rig the vtec actuation with an msd rpm switch. But, the correct way to do it is to run an odb0->odb1 harness. The y8 dizzy is going to be different sensorwise than an odb1 dizzy, so you are going to have to rewire that to compensate.

if you are doing a z6 block you would not have to do anything with the oil ports because they are already removed from the factory.

 

might have to swap water necks in the back of the block, when I went from my d15 to a y7 I had to. compare the # of nipples on it to make sure