set up is as follows
B18c block
polished b18c crank
12.5 wisco pistons
eagle rods
endyn dhps head street port and polish
ferrra forged flat vavles
skunk2 pro springs/ ti retainer
skunk2 pro 2 cam shafts/degreed -1intake/-3 ex
skunk2 pro cam gears
skunk2 intake manifold/port matched
type r throttle body
cheap replica header 4-2-1
2.5 ws2 exhaust
3in sort ram
neptune rtp
running on e85
stock dizzy and wires
and ac! no p/s!
b16 tranny



i have a small issue with the vtec cross over,its currently set for 7200.i seen many people say this is unsafe.but set any lower there is a huge dip5800- 6000 rpm.leaving vtec at this point gave the best powerband,how can i lower this vtec point without the dip?diffrent header?cai mabe?just very hard to drive the car because the vtec window is small,so a perfect shift is needed,to keep in vtec!!please any comments welcome

 

cam gear settings?

usually a high vtec point is due to sucky header / exhaust setup..these cams like anywhere from 5400-6000 with a good header and exhaust.

 

yeah my exhaust is mabe the problem,put camgear setting in original post.

 

how aren't you hitting valves..?

really? you sure its not +1 / +3?

 

First off thanks for the graph and info. It actually made my day.
Now on to more power.

1. A new Header, SMSP, Hytech, BISI, with anyone of these you should see a very nice improvement. MaDo you have a test pipe?
2. The 62mm ITR TB is OK but something in a 65mm-68mm will work better, don't forget to port match.
3. Your intake, you may want to look into adding a Velocity stack. Also a 3" CAI has shown improvements over the short ram design.
4. Optional, a Performer X should help in the top end over the Skunk2. I would do this last.
5. Tune, Tune, Tune

 

i have no cat,but i do have a 24 in resonator.as far as valves hitting both are retarded,is that plus or minus?also i am looking for a 4-1 header i could use with ac,anyone know of one?

 

You're running a WS2 exhaust which is quiet but known to be restrictive. You're valve settings look fine, especially if you say they were properly degreed in. They are still seperated by a couple degrees which was plenty on my pro 2's. A "4-1" header isn't the answer, a good tri-y design, probably like the one you're running is what you want but it will cost you. If what you already have is the hytech replica style of header, you will probably be fine without upgrading it. Your intake pipe should be swapped out to the 3" CAI variety as OH_1fstgsr had mentioned in his post. Intake manifold change and TB change etc.

 

0 thanks alot for the reply,hoping when i go three in exhaust,the tq drop will be gone for a better vtec crossover.deff getting a cold air,keep the replica for now,money will be spent on nitrous as the motor was built fot it. but am i harming my motor with the high vtec point?i have the new style lma(spring type).

 

A change to the exhaust should help for sure and may even lower your VTEC engagement point. I don't personally know of a reason why it would be unsafe to engage VTEC at that RPM, but wait until you make some changes and see where it wants to be set at then. How much nitrous do you plan on hitting it with?

 

my plan is a direct port smallest shot at first,think is a 62 shot.then hook up the progressive to 150 after i learn how to drive it.just trying to get the vtec lower for driving and spraying( would only want to spray vtec lobe)but she is still very fun to drive as is in a ek dx hatch

 

I use to spray on the primary lobe in second gear at the drag strip and it was perfect for getting a good launch and traction that way. As long as you have the proper nitrous setup like a bottle heater that's pressure controlled and you spend some time setting up the jets and timing on the dyno, it will work well and be reliable.

 

awesome,you sprayed second with drag radials?if you dont me asking what power is the set up in the sig is?and mabe a quarter mile time?just really wondering a all motor quarter time i would run.

 

With burnt off Falken Azenis tires actually (poor mans drag radials...lol) That was when I had the B16a in the car. When you launch an all motor car it is tricky because if it comes out of VTEC after launch, it acts like a bog and really slows your time down. If you're rpm above VTEC is too high and all you're doing is spinning, then your time is slow because of poor traction (although trap speed looks great). I use to launch in first gear and just get the car out of the hole and moving and then rip into second and floor it, which would engage the nitrous. The power would pull me along until VTEC came in and it would rip the rest of the way down the track. I found it to be the best way to launch and fastest way for me down the track.

My setup in my sig now is at 192 whp without nitrous but has never been to the track yet. I'm doing a few things to it now and will be returning to the track to see how it does though.

 

How did you arrive at the cam gear settings? Also, that looks pretty rich but I've never tuned e85. Would you still tune for a wideband indicated 13+ even though the actual air/fuel is different?

 

when i had my 98 spec jdm itr i put the itr 4-1 header on it and when i was tuning i remember if i set vtec below 5500 it would bog for a second then rip right around 5600... i also had stock itr cams with my gears at -3exh +2int when i got my highend header i put my cam gears at +1exh and +2int and dropped my vtec down to 5300 and it made awesome power i had 2 1/4 no cat with a straight through muffler it was loud.. never dyno tuned it tho street tuned it the whole time i had it for 2.5 years

 

the cam gear setting were done by my mecanhic,he used skunk2 degreeing process.shows you that the dhps heads are not perfect,as the setting are diffrent from many builds i seen.the wide band were diffrent between my lc-1 in car ,and the sniffer.i belive he tuned it in the midddle.also where it made most power.

i dont mind how it is now,but im getting a cai and 3in exhaust,and a retune with the nos.hopefully the vtec crossover is a little lower,i really dont wanna tune the vtec cross over with nitrous but i never tried it.also heard it put more strian if you spray the non vtec lobe.any advice on nitrous?

 

I think this needs to be re-examined. -3 exhaust is retarded more than -1 intake meaning he's running more overlap. If this is indeed correct then hopefully the DHPS head gives much more V2V clearance than stock.

Similar to the Pro1, in all Pro2 builds I've seen the setting have been exhaust more advanced than intake. Which -3 exhaust -1 intake is not.

It would definitely affect your Vtec engagement point if they aren't degreed properly.

 

i dont know much about the pro series cams but i remember when i was adjusting my gears and taking pulls on the street (on an abandon street of course) i noticed a difference with it where the car would make the most power at...

also different parts require different gear settings... your running some kind of header now, but i bet if you got a nice header like the high end or even better with the smsp i guarantee your car will like them set different atleast with mine it was that way, when i put the header on it didnt make that much more power until i retuned then re adjusted the gears i felt the difference it was crazy... and im not talking it got faster, it felt alot faster had more traction problems in 3rd gear

but get a good header, have them degree your cams again, i know with pro cams you cant just adjust to the dyno because of v2v clearances and v2p clearances dont wanna mess anything up, but vtec being around 7k is ridiculous but if people are saying from experience that your settings are wrong then i would have ur tuner re do it

 

those gear settings ARENT correct..
the exhaust would never be less then the intake, period.. even degreed in correctly the exhaust would always be more advanced then the intake, even if its one degree..

i'm telling you.. you either have them backwards or your .0000015 away from dropping a valve.

 

im going to take a picture tonight of the cam gear setting,i have fully faith in macanhic,and he says it was done rite.im going to recheck,but the gear setting are not near the max the engine builder clearence wise,but the dhps heads are b16 head with gsr ports.so im really running a poor mans type r.

 

also had a few problems with the manchine shop,they never gave me a spec sheet on p2v with cam gear setting.he only told me i got i got plenty in intake,and only 4 degrees exhaust advanced.i didnt do the work myself,but my mechanic doubles checked.i going to have a chat today with him about it.

 

looking pretty damn good id say, you are looking at somewhere in the 225-235 peak hp range, and 145-153ft/lbs peak at the crank........and since honda trannys use thin fluid i would lean more towards the low side(because theres less frictional loss of moving the fluid..........theres less power being eaten up by your drivetrain). your torque is VERY flat which is very good. i would try playing with the AFR and see what happens there............id have to do some visualizing to see what might be going on with your vtec engagement, but if i have an idea ill let you know.

 

you could try open headers i gained 9whp and moved the whole power band higher

 

Looking at the odd wavy shape around your vtec engagement at such a high point I would suspect either your rings or your valves aren't sealing too well.

Is it possible for you to do a leak down test? If you have a compression tester you can do a poor-mans leak down by doing a compression test then adding a cap of oil to that cyl and re-testing and comparing results.

 

i hope everything sealed rite.i am going to to a compression test,once i get spair time i will do the leak down.it feels real dam good even comming from a b20/vtec 180 whp.cam gear pics will be up tonight.i hope its the exhaust,dont wanna tear her down agian.