So I am at 190whp and 136wtq. So how to get that last 10whp out of my engine. This little under taking has now become my summer project.

#1. Relocate IAT from manifold to Intake Pipe.
#2. Simple breather kit.
#3. Fuel injector change, replace the RC370's with FIC525's.
#4. Replace High flow cat with resonator, car is a bit to loud for my old ears.
#5. TUNE, TUNE, TUNE.

Will all of this get me there maybe, maybe not. But it will at least be fun to try.

The car now.

Exhaust
SMSP 4-2-1 2-1/2” Header
SMSP High Flow Cat 2-1/2” 300 cell
PTM 2-1/2” Custom Exhaust w/Vibrant Muffler

Intake
RC Engineering Ported GSR Throttle Body 70mm>64mm
RC Engineering Fuel Injectors w/clips 370cc
Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold, Port Matched
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket (blue)
KMS Stainless Intake Manifold Stud Kit
AEM ITR 3” Cold Air Intake, (Custom Cut)
BPI 3” Velocity Stack

Block
USDM ITR Pistons (81.25)
USDM ITR Rods
(Compression Ratio ~11.6:1)

Head
DPR Stage 5 Port ‘n’ Polish
Rocker Arm Balance and Lightening
ITR Valves, ITR Springs, ITR Retainers, ITR LMA’s
CTR Intake Cam Shaft
ITR Exhaust Cam Shaft
ARP Head Studs
Toda Cam Gears

Transmission
Spoon Sports Flywheel
Action Clutch 1MS Clutch
ITR LSD

ECU
Skunk2 OBD2a>OBD1 Harness with IAB control
P72 OBD1 ECU
Hondata S300
 
Misc.
Unorthodox Light Weight Pulleys, AC and PS ONLY
Samco Radiator Hoses, Black
Samco Custom Vacuum & Coolant Hoses
Hyper Voltage System, Grounding Wires
Hyper Voltage System, Hyper Voltage System GT
NGK Power Cables, Plug Wires
Skunk2 Oil Cap

The latest dyno graph.

 

I know its not listed, but why not throw in different camshafts?

 

read the title 200 whp with oem internals lol

 

have you tried playing with intake lengths to gain a few hp?

 

it does seem ur close to ur limit on thos cams, id try radical ingnition timming, custom dizzy for radical adjustment. ive hurd of b16 making 200whp with a meth kit and radical ignition timing, but dont know how true it is, but in theroy it could work....lol, maybe get some cam gears and see if u can dail in a lil more,

imo i would put some s2s2 on that and have

 

although it says oem i too would say cams and if your interested i have a set of skunk 2 tuner stg 1 cams for sale will let go for a reasonable price

 

i would go with AEM pencil coils and their dizzy to run it. ctr flywheel and crank pulley, and get back on the dyno and tune the **** out of it.

 

Try some cam gear tuning?

 

why relocate the iat to the intake pipe? to get a more accurate reading of the inlet temps for the ecu at closed loop?

 

Goal of my car is all OEM. I work for Honda so all the parts where pretty cheap.

No, not yet. I have considered this but just haven't decided to proceed yet.

No nothing radical on this car. I have Toda cam gears. They are adjusted a lot; I now have a bit of a lopey idle.

I have Spoon flywheel. As for the coils, I really like the T1 Racing Development set-up, but it is insane money. T1 Ultimate Ignition Kit

That is what my tuner says. This is going to be the first thing I do. I'll document this as best I can. First I have to get a IAT sensor from a D17 engine and maybe part of the wiring harness. Before I make the change I'm going to chart the before and after temps as best I can.

 

man....some of the advice in here....lol

I understand the whole OEM thing but I think you're at the point where you really have to ask yourself why it's worth spending big money to upgrade injectors to MAYBE get that extra 5-7 hp when you can spend that same money and get a set of cams that will finally be a good match for all the other modifications you made, and then just enjoy your car? Your power level should increase nicely and reliability shouldn't be an issue either. I think it's safe to say you've more or less maxed out those cams in your build. You could spend a lot more money fooling with little things and maybe reach that magical 200 whp, but what then?

 

drop the exhaust... if not, go to 3" piping, ditch the 2.5. intake piping length will make more power... this is about it...if you throw in another set of cams youll make 210+..even stage 1s..changing injectors isnt needed..you gears are probably retardly adjusted like +5 on the intake and -6 on the exhaust..none the less.. you can only do so much, your pushing it right now..go to a 3.5" intake piping and tapper it to 3" to your tb...see how that helps

 

single layer high comp head gasket should do it. ever thought about switching to e85 then hit it with more timing.

 

also, relocating the iat wont "make" power... your ecu or tuning software will compensate fueling and ign as thw car gets hot..tell your tuner quit being lazy and make the adjustments in the program ****.

 

Not in my case. I would actually purchase another car just for all out power. This car is my hobby, test and learn and enjoy. And you probably right I have maxed out the cams. As for the cams if I really wanted to change I would have a while ago and probably be somewhere over 210 in my little 1.8ltr.

If I ever get my race car I would be building a 86x89 12.5-13:1 engine targeting about 240-250ish in a 2400lb car. Cams Pro3 maybe, Bisi Level X, custom cams not sure.
Intakes I really want to test all the following a Victor X CnC’d, Magnus, and a BMC Race.
Did I mention I have an ITR head sitting around Ported for when I get my race car. I’m a year or two away.

 

get the breather kit, try a different lighter oil amsoil.. head gasket to bump comp. id also switch to a 17 or 18inch short ram as it will make more peak and ive read that length is good. get modified spark plugs not sure but ive herd they add 1 or 2 hp. possible custom throttle body spacer.

Also the hondata race version of the gasket could help bring down temps as well witch may add to something who really knows?

 

umm anyone say get ur OEM cam regrinded more lift iirc will give hp and duration gives tq ?????? it is oem internals, so not cheating just bending the rules

 

hey man. you think a b20z2 motor with your head/cams would come close to 200? i will be building a similar setup. good luck with the build.

 

Take it to Church's and do a dyno pull there. You'll probably make 200 whp and then some.

fm

 

Is a simple set of ITB's out of the question? If so, different intake manifolds. Try different diameter and length intake tubing.

 

My previous suggestion was made in jest...but not entirely. I struggled with trying to hit that magic 200 mark at my tuner. I was making 174/118 on my mildly-built GSR when I ditched my JDM ITR header for a DTR and deleted the cat. That got me to 185/120. I took it to another shop and put it on their dynojet and made 193/127. 7 whp gain, no changes made. My point is that it's just a number. That 7 whp gain didn't send me down the 1/4 mile any quicker nor did it change my trap speed.

Just some food for thought.


Btw, you mention in another thread that your injector duty cycles are at 68%. Why are you changing out to bigger injectors? Seems like your motor is getting all the fuel it needs. I don't see how moving to bigger injectors is going to help. It may even hurt if the spray pattern is less than optimal.

fm

 

Remove the a/c and p/s belts during the dyno run. And like already mentioned, tuning intake arm length should get you the extra 10 hp you're looking for.

 

u could leave it as is oem, and spray a 25 shot alot cheaper then anything else.. just a idea

 

I have been running Amsoil for 3-4 years now. The car also has a Hondata IM gasket. I am running Iridium plugs now.

I kind of like this trick, maybe. But I doubt it.

No ITB's on this car.

I have had this car for 11 years now. I think about 7-8 years ago I gave up on trying to hit numbers. The title was just something catchy to explain my summer projects on my car.

As for the dyno jumping idea. The car physically does not make any more power when this is done. You’re just using a different measurement device. But I have heard Honda R&D has a DynoPack, maybe I should give it a try. HaHa.

As for the injector change it’s not about the duty cycle. The Bosch injectors have a much better spray pattern over the RC injectors. Funny thing about this, is that the Bosch are actually cheaper.

This has actually crossed my mind. Many of the other ITR cam'd set-ups I had studied the belts had been removed.

Stock B20Z2 compression? No way, I believe it's around 9.5:1 or so. The larger bore and stroke would help but that fact it would be down 2 compression points, sorry NOPE. You might make to around 175 range.
If you have about 11.5:1 compression I would say no problem getting to 200whp with my head on it.

It seems like I need to do some Intake Pipe Tuning. I'm curious about this, how do I exaclty do this with CAI? I kind of need to keep the filter in its general location, right? If I had a pipe off the TB and just a filter this would be no problem.

 

If u call delta cam they can grind u a cam that works with ur stock valve spring etc. I have used them before and recommend them to a friend of mine with a b20 non vtec setup and working very good for him.

They also can give u a spec sheet when they do the grind also. Hey it's still stock i'd send of some gsr cams and get a grind done i wouldn't mess with the ctr/itr cams that u have.