My LX has 130K. I mentioned to the dealer a thunk noise on some bumps of any size (normally below 40 - maybe road noise covers it up after that). They say it's the front strut. $700+ to fix. I figure I'll do it myself later when I have time, which is why it's in the shop having the timing belt/water pump done.

I know there are lots of bushings, bolts and whatnot that could be bad vs the actual strut. Any tips on isolating what really needs fixing and how hard would this be to do?

What are the negative consequences of putting this off a few months?

 

I doubt it's the strut actually making the noise. It's more likely the strut mount bushings at the top or maybe the one in the lower arm. Could also be a sway bar link that has a torn boot and worn out. you may be able to tell if the top busing is bad just by opening the hood. If you remove the wheel and unbolt the strut from the car, it will come out as an assembly, spring and all. You'll then need to install a spring compressor onto it and relieve all the tension that is on the strut so you can remove the mount. Just buy a bushing kit for it if you find that it's bad. If you have the original struts with 130K, go ahead and replace both of them while you're at it. you'll have to go through the same process all over again if you don't do it now. I doubt you will do any major damage until you can correct it, but do it soon.

 

When I picked up my car, he said it wasn't the bushings, but the actual strut(s). What do I need to look for to verify that is true? Everything is OEM.

I understand the compressors most auto parts stores have are a pain to use on Hondas because of the size. What's the best way around that?

 

the strut really shouldn't be making the noise unless the bumpstop has disintegrated, which is possible from what I saw on my rear struts the last time I had them out. the bumpstops had basically fallen apart and were almost completely missing. just a few pieces left. again, i really doubt it's the strut itself since there's not much that can clunk in a strut body. the spring compressors are kind of a pain, but unless you want to invest about $700 in a bench-mounted spring compressor, you'll have to deal with it or take it back to the shop. I would diagnose this yourself and stay away from those guys trying to rip you off. Even if you took it in for both struts to be replaced, that shouldn't be over about $300-400 with an alignment afterwards. sounds shady to me.

 

I guess I'll jack it up at some point and see if anything wiggles excessively. I've never done any suspension work on a vehicle before so I'm shooting blind. From what I've read here so far, some things can't be detected with the car in the air - sort of a catch 22.

 

one possibility is the lower ball joint. check your lower ball joints by turning the steering wheel where you can see the joint, jacking one front wheel up at a time by placing the jack under the lower control arm so that you lift the tire off the ground slightly. Place a pry bar under the tire and try to lift the wheel up. if you get any movement of the wheel relative to the lower arm, you have a bad lower joint. You can peek at the joint while you pry and it will help you see what it's doing.

also, look at the lower shock mount bushing in the arm.

also, while the wheel is off the ground grab to top and bottom of the tire and see if you can feel any slack in the wheel bearing by pushing the top in and pullng the bottom out and vice versa. should be no movement in the bearing. if you do this horizontally, you may feel some slack, but that can be misleading since the slack may be in the steering.

check axle movement by grabbing the axle shaft and trying to wiggle it. shouldn't be much slack there.

make sure all bolts are tight. and look for any chafing marks on parts that are close together.