Well I also have dash light and heater blower switch probs but thats the least of my worry.

Head: my exhaust cam is eaten up like a chipmunk army naw'd on the lobes, but its on the side of the lobes that dont actually hit the lifters...893$ to replace with a bullshit no vtec lobe cam...Sounds like a rsx-s head replacement...is that a garage job with a write-up or a shop job? got one i could buy? in Bama...

Brakes: was told i have a sticking brake pin? iIt makes a dying giraffe noise when i take of in 1st...? buy new calipers and replace? I was gonna do that this week! like tomorrow!

Had both axles replaced and new struts, now it feels grindy...when i am accelerating...???
wtf... do new axles have a break in period.

Could the dying giraffe noise when i start to accelerate in 1st be a worn out throw out bearing?

A/C blower fan: wtf its soooo hot!

Anybody have a k20a2 longblock full swap for sale?

I hate the Ep3...like the bitch car of handa, made to look good...Almost like meeting a chick out n about, getting her home and finding out she's wearing a push-up bra and those butt enhancement panties, so i took home a fine azz chick and ended up with a flat *** no tep end liar! PLZ Help!

 

i was gna help you out, until i read "i hate the ep3. bitch car of honda." =p

 

me too and i have a k20z swap for sale. your loss.

 

lol.. car sounds like a bucket.. if u bought it brand new.. shame on you.. otherwise.. the person or people before you dogged it out and didnt maintain it. can't call my EP a bitch car.. tho.. so sir.. correction.. YOU have a bitch car lol

 

First of all, A+ post. Will read again. Still contemplating making that last paragraph my forum signature.

Cams: This is a known problem with the EP3. Just look for replacement A3 cams on ephatch.com or K20a.org in the classified sections, people sell these CHEAP (<$100). Depends on how handy you are in the garage if you want to do it yourself or not. You'll have to remove the timing chain..

Brakes: You should be able to remove the pin, inspect it, clean it, and relube it to make sure it's not sticking. I wouldn't think you need to replace the caliper unless it's really awful. This is an easy easy fix.

Axles/struts: this is probably related to your sticking brake pads. Fix your brakes first and see if this symptom goes away.

A/C: you live in 'Bama, deal with it. Take it to a shop and have them test your A/C and recharge if necessary.

 

Remove and clean the ground for your blower motor, if that doesnt help then clean all connections for the blower motor circuit, see if the on switch is hot too, if not then replace blower motor. Take it out and spin it by hand, if it doesnt go freely, then its bad.

If you want to spend a few bucks on diagnosis, have a tech with an oscilloscope do an Amp Ramp on the motor and see what the armature and brushes look like on the scope.

 

to the first couple people, it is the biznatch vtec engine of Honda.... and I have owned 4 built crx's and a all motor 96 vtec prelude, and this pos.... as far as cams, how about a whole head replacement from a type-s is that straight bolt on? write up plz....

brakes, which pin is this and what do i use to lube it with, specifically?

blower fan: i have the fan wired to a toggle switch...it blows fine. wired the compressor and fan and it blew cold air... so the lights went out in the switch then the switch just doesnt do anything,...except if you push the ac button and turn the switch past off the light goes on and off but doesnt turn on compressor or fan... is the pcm same as the ecu in my car? could the harness be burnt out? should an ac shop be able to diagnose CORRECTLY and just tell me whats f'ed up on it?

and does a bad throwout bearing start making noise?

And to you first couple of Ep3 fanboys, any vtec engine without dual cam vtec isnt vtec.... its like the afore mentioned bad choice in a woman...my fault shoulda done more research but i was in a need of a car. the side of the Ep3's should say 1/2Vtec, or ICVtec only, for intake cam vec only, down here in the south i call it BS...and i like how my personal opinion with the car affects people from helping me on a technical standpoint! My friends drive trucks, and pontiacs, and fords....doesnt keep me from helping them even though they hate their cars too! wtf

 

hmm bump for more answers

 

Throw out bearing can make noise, does the noise go away when you push in the clutch or when you release the clutch, could also be a bearing internal to the tranny.

The caliper is two halves, they are connected via a pin or two that should slide when brakes are applied and slide when brakes are released, these things get corroded and sieze up.

If you mean the main lights on the main control panel dont come on until you go past the off position, then you need a control panel.

Controlling the AC Compressor with a manual switch can cause it to overheat later in the hot summer days, it will continue to increase pressure until it blows the overpressure valve, it needs time cool itself off and to equalize pressure (not fully) internal to the system.

PCM, powertrain control module = engine and tranny.
ECU, engine control unit = engine only.

The terms are more or less interchangable, the ECU (ECM) came before the PCM so older guys still call them an ECU.

What makes the compressor cycle, the over and/or under PRESSURE switch, the Thermal switch on the Evaperator to prevent freezing, there may be a thermal switch built into the compressor itself for when it gets too hot (maybe not on yours), when you go to Wide Open Throttle, the compressor may be killed until you let up of the throttle a bit, there may be a temp sensor in the car (auto AC System, maybe not on yours) that will cycle the compressor when the interior reaches the desired temp.

The compressor should not run unless the interior blower fan is on, when the compressor does come on, both the radiator and condensor fans should come on and they may cycle with the compressor cycle.

The AC System has its own computer (amplifier), it should be the control unit with all the switches and selection buttons, diagnosing AC with a good wire diagram and a little understanding of electronics should not be too difficult, understanding the pressures is a little more detailed though, and using your hand around the AC components is another way to diagnose AC pressure troubles, that take even more experience.

Now the ECU does/may control a few grounds, the radiator/condensor fans may have an additional controller/timer also, but a wire diagram will show all of this. Some relays have power available to them as soon as you turn the key on, they just need a ground (by you turning on a switch) to make an item work, some relays dont get power until you turn on a switch or another automated switch (pressure/thermal) is turned on. Certain conditions must be met or the system will not work, this is why making your own switch and letting the compressor run all the time is a problem. It ok for troubleshooting but not to allow it to run all day. The good thing about troubleshooting most Honda AC Systems, you only need a multimeter and a diagram, mostly. Got yours in hand.